And I'm planing to make something Cafe Racer(ish) out of it, it won't be the best handeling nor best stopping XV750 out there, but it will be way better ( not very difficult I have to admit...)
What I already got:
A XJ900 front, not a USD super brake setup, but still, anti-dive system and most important dual disk
I'll have (well a machine shop) bore out the clamps from 36mm to 37mm, that shouldn't be a problem.
The problem is that I don't like the wheel, I already painted it black, it's better but not quite there yet
I also designed and 3D printed a "Boyd inspired" wheel cover just to see if it would be better:
Got a '06 Yamaha R1 rear shock ( that looks like new ! )
I'll have to design an adapter for it to fit, it's a couple of inches shorter than the OEM one.
Got also a Kawasaki KZ650SR fuel tank, it will fit without any modification, I'll just have to make a bracket on the seat side.
You're going to be fighting an uphill battle with getting the bike to be what you're envisioning. The popular custom XVs you see online have A LOT of unseen fabrication.
Good luck, make safety your top priority.
We'll give you honest advice, so be careful what you ask or show.
In my quest to find a better looking and efficient front-end I'm wondering how far I can go.
Explanation: the XV750 triple tree / clamps are made for 36mm fork tubes, but in that size there's nothing much, I've got a XJ900 from which I'm planing to use the front end, but for that I'll have to drill out the clamps from 36 to 37mm ( well a machine shop will do this) could I got to 38mm or higher without a risk ? The bigger the tube the better and more choice.
So you are taking the top shock mount and adding a lever to the one single bolt that holds it on, then subjecting that bolt to tensile stress instead of 2 points of shear stress that would exist on the original fixture That better be a pretty darn big and strong bolt head.
Your steel bracket is over-kill stronger then the single bolt you plan to mount it with.
"
So you are taking the top shock mount and adding a lever to the one single bolt that holds it on, then subjecting that bolt to tensile stress instead of 2 points of shear stress that would exist on the original fixture That better be a pretty darn big and strong bolt head.
Your steel bracket is over-kill stronger then the single bolt you plan to mount it with. "
Well this system , the one with the billet part, is working, it has being mounted on dozens of bike and I didn't hear/read any problems with this setup.
... Well this system , the one with the billet part, is working, it has being mounted on dozens of bike and I didn't hear/read any problems with this setup.
This post covers guides and technical information. Triple Tree and Fork Conversions: Cross compatability list all balls bearing converter Engine stuff: Big Bore Honda discussion CB175 performance upgrades Fixing a cross threaded spark plug hole from the outside Carburetors: CB750 Street Carbs...
Found the 2 BALLS STEERING BEARING I need ( 99-3509-5 & 99-3515-5 ) Tomorrow I'll mesure both bikes frame necks, I suppose that will give me a ruff idea if the swap is possible just by buying bearings ( would be great !!)
For now yes indeed, Got my bike from the Netherlands and got to go with it 100% stock to the Belgian Yamaha importer to get a Belgian registration, so I can't do a thing on it before that.
So I'm kind of stuck, I'm designing parts, can't print them yet because I don't have the exact measurements, so I'm collecting info about front end and rear shock, that's done...
I'll post pics as soon as I've got something to show.
If the emblem bracket sits below the surface of the main tank profile lead fill it and bodywork to suit.
If it sits proud you could very and i mean very carefully drill the spot welds with a specific spot weld drill to remove.
I would still expect to have to do a bit of welding after drilling.
Then you could actually plate over the void.
Welding tanks can be/is dangerous if not done properly. You basically make a small bomb.
Read up carefully on how to prep it or get a pro willing and able. Willing being the operative word as many welders will not want to weld a tank they haven't made inert.
From a styling point of view a tank looks better imo with the original emblems in place
I know how I would proceed, grind the bracket until it's flush with the tank and than bondo it smooth.
But maybe there's a "trick" I don't know about, reason why I ask, I know it's spot welded, drill it out is quite to risky for me, and since I can't weld...
With the amount of movement with temperature and the weight of the fuel sloshing around i would bet that bondo would crack if applied thick enough to cover that void.
Thats why i mentioned lead filling.
I could be wrong and it would be fine but an expensive lesson ro learn after a pricey paint job has been applied over it.
I agree, reason why this gas tank will only be a positive mold ( It's not from this bike anyway, so it doesn't have to be 100% the exact size) for a carbon fiber copy, well the fact that it's lighter and the carbon look, I'll just varnish it satin or matt.
First time ever last w.e on my car as a test:
Encouraging for a first time...
I'll do some other small parts before the fuel tank.
I'll reference you to Geeto's trials and tribulations with his sportclassic
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