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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New member to the forum, and a new member to the world of 2 wheels. Never really ridden before but after selling my car I decided on a bike. Enough background.

I bought an 82' Suzuki gn400 and its needing new fork seals and possibly something on the bottom end as it leaks there too. Ive looked all over online trying to find a service manual for this bike and havent been able to find anything. If anyone knows of an online manual, or where I can get a physical one please reply.
2nd question...
After researching out fork seals I'm kind of stumped on which ones are the best, Ive heard a lot about NOK but not sure... any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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These are your fork seals:

55-108 | All Balls Racing

The "something on the bottom end as it leaks there too" is more than likely from the damper rod bolt. You may be lucky and it just needs tightening or you may have to remove it which can be a bit more complicated.

Cant help you with a manual but there should be one on the Google somewhere - look harder.
 

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Thank you hillsy, have you personally used All Balls brand? What was your experience? Before posting I did a little research and from what I read this brand wasn't the top choice among people.
 

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Thank you hillsy, have you personally used All Balls brand? What was your experience? Before posting I did a little research and from what I read this brand wasn't the top choice among people.
I haven't used AB seals but have used their steering head bearings with success.
 

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I have used All balls seals, and have had about the same experience as any other aftermarket seal.....I have had about 50-50 luck with them, or any other aftermarket seal. Don't bother with anything other than OEM for fork seals.
 

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8ball.....how the 50 coming?
No update this month. Lawnmower needed drive belt, which requires pulling the rear drive axles out, Blazer needed a radiator, garage needed cleaning, shed needed floor work, the wife needed some time, and the R6 needed a couple days of scuffing the edges of its tires. A busy two weeks home.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have used All balls seals, and have had about the same experience as any other aftermarket seal.....I have had about 50-50 luck with them, or any other aftermarket seal. Don't bother with anything other than OEM for fork seals.

Thanks for the advice 8ball. I was able to track down some OEM seals at Rocky Mountain ATV. Before I started I wanted to make sure I had all the parts necessary, so I was looking at a diagram break down of the fork. 5 is the seal and I am guessing that these forks down have brass bushings in them by this? The only thing that looks close to it is (15) the piece, oil lock in the diagram. but im almost positive that isnt it. any help?? anyone done these on this bike before?
fork breakdown.gif

breakdown attached
 

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The bushing (if it has one) is not listed in that diagram. It would be at the bottom of the tube (#20). You will need another copper washer (#8).

The easiest way to get them apart is to drain the oil by removing the cap and dumping it out. Put the spring and cap back in (the spring will give some resistance to hold the damping rod from turning). Set the fork in a soft jaw vise, or use a bunch of rags to protect the fork bottom. Using an air impact with a long allen bit, hit the bottom screw (the one with the copper washer) at the same time pull on the fork tube to fully extend the fork. (that extension will also put resistance against the damping rod to keep it from spinning)

Assembly is the reverse. I always set fork oil to a specified level rather than using a volume, but I don't know what that level would be for your bike.
 

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The easiest way to get them apart is to drain the oil by removing the cap and dumping it out. Put the spring and cap back in (the spring will give some resistance to hold the damping rod from turning). Set the fork in a soft jaw vise, or use a bunch of rags to protect the fork bottom. Using an air impact with a long allen bit, hit the bottom screw (the one with the copper washer) at the same time pull on the fork tube to fully extend the fork. (that extension will also put resistance against the damping rod to keep it from spinning)

Assembly is the reverse. I always set fork oil to a specified level rather than using a volume, but I don't know what that level would be for your bike.
That's pretty much the way I do except I drain the oil out of the damper rod hole after I take the bolt out - set the fork in the vise so it's angling down slightly towards the fork cap, remove the bolt then stand the fork upright in a bucket while you go get a coffee. When you come back the forks are dry and it makes the least mess on your workbench.
 

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I had a few of those bikes awhile back(bought to fix and flip) - I needed a manual and had NO luck whatsoever finding anything.
The factory manuals make no mention of any replaceable bushings.
I did find PDF versions of the factory svc manuals later on- you need the SP400 manual and the GN400 supplement.
If you don't have any luck finding them, PM me your email address and I'll send them to you. The SP400 manual is missing the first page that has the chapter list so you'll have to scroll through it to make your own chapter list. I'm too lazy to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
8ball and hillsy, that is exactly the instructions I was looking for.. where ive never really worked on bikes before you guys have helped out more than you know. Thank you so much
 

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I needed a manual and had NO luck whatsoever finding anything. The factory manuals make no mention of any replaceable bushings.
I did find PDF versions of the factory svc manuals later on- you need the SP400 manual and the GN400 supplement.
If you don't have any luck finding them, PM me your email address and I'll send them to you. The SP400 manual is missing the first page that has the chapter list so you'll have to scroll through it to make your own chapter list. I'm too lazy to do it.
This is the kind of stuff that needs to be more public info! I'll be getting in touch with you.
 
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