I’ll remove the carbs and clean it first and see if I get the engine running before buy a repair kit. Good to know that the major problem are in the bottom of carbs, I’ll look it and I’ll post what I found. Thanks you pal!
I usually clean them with; Heavy Duty Industrial Simple Green, hot water and a handfull of medium sized nuts. I put the Simple Green and the nuts in the tank and slosh them around just to loosen the crud. I then let it sit for a day sloshing the cleaner around every once in a while. I then rinse it out again and again with hot water until the water comes clear. After that I do a last rinse with acetone before applying the sealer.
Again I'll get you the name of the product. It's nothing like that rubber crap that is often found in the rusty tanks. That shit mostly just keeps the rust in place . This stuff is more like special thin paint that you slosh around in the tank and let dry for a few days. It is a deep red but almost clear (at least you can see through it) and at least with the race bikes, because they sit at times (like during the winter) you gota do something or you'll get rust even if you fill them up to the top because once they've rusted one time they'll rust again anywhere the fuel isn't covering the metal. . We also use VP 4.4 fuel and it's caustic enough that we can't leave it in the tank. We drain it even when we're racing on back to back weekends if that's a hint. This sealer I'm talking about does survive the VP for a race event and we've never needed to do a re-clean so I'm pretty happy with how it works.
The other option is to take it to a firm that specializes in doing tanks only problem I have with those guys is they can't guarantee that the paint will survive. I'm usually going to re-paint the tanks anyway but I like to use the original paint as my base coat rather than starting from scratch so I hate having the paint screwed up.
I'll head out to the shop now and see if I can find that products name for you.