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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, friends.

I was working really hard trying to finish a few add-ons to this bike before last weekend, but as luck has it... I had clutch issues at the last minute.
The clutch basket pressure plate boss has a stripped threaded hole, so I'm replacing the entire assembly with new Suzuki parts. Going back to Suzuki pressure plate springs, and ditching the Barnett stuff.

I really respect the opinions and suggestions I have received here on my other bike thread, so I figured I'd get some more input for this one.

What I'll do here is write out what I've done already, and leave it open for suggestion for further upgrades.

Modifications:

Ignition:
Dyna-S ignition (Deleted ignitor, stock coils, wires, NGK plugs .032" gap)

Suspension:
Suspension Front - Front forks are from an 82' E, removed stock pre-load spring and spaced the damper 2.5", these forks have schrader valves for air pre-load, currently have 0psi until I get it running soon. Sag in the front is approximately 30mm.
Suspension Rear - Rear schocks are Ohlins SU-143, sprung for my weight.
Rear swing arm - GS1100E, I drilled and reamed the frame for the larger pivot bolt. All new bearings/seals.
Stock anti-dive units were cleaned and rebuilt, a new front end is in the plans. Maybe in a couple years.
Standard clip-ons, can't remember where I got them.
Stock gearing, fresh 630 chain. I'll probably convert when these sprockets are worn out.

Frame:
Few misc. features deleted from the frame such as battery mount tabs, and other misc. tabs.
Rear tail section is cross braced with 1" x .125" angle steel. (Serves as a battery mount as well.)
Rear-sets from a 2004 GSX-R. The brackets I fabricated out of 1" C-Channel steel .125" THK, and a milled slot.
I turned down some carriage bolts from 316SS such that the head of the bolt slides nicely in the channel, and allows adjustment for proper riding posture.

Brakes:
Rotors, calipers are stock.
Pads are NOS.
Brake lines are teflon lined SS braided.
All brake components are rebuilt and cleaned.

Carbs:
53mm Mikuni CV carbs
Dyno-Jet Stg. 3 with adjustable needle jets
Mikuni 70mm velocity stacks, aluminum.
All cleaned and rebuilt.

Exhaust:
Vance Hines, 4-1. (rest of exhaust not pictured.)

Electronics:
Innovate XD-16 wideband O2 sensor and gauge/data logger.

Battery:
Odyssey PC680 sealed.

I think that's about it... Running a mis-matched tire right now. Contemplating a nice new set for the season, but haven't done anything yet.

Here are a couple pics. I'm going to clean it up a little more here soon. I have a CR-750 fairing coming for it with in the next couple weeks. Air Tech is currently making it for me, so I'll see how much I like it when it's here.

Anyway, have a look.
If something I have done is down right stupid... please educate me.
As always, I'm here to learn.









One of the sliders before painting:
 

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Nice set of upgrades. Only weak spot I really notice is the front forks are just small, but you addressed that. Maybe for the time being a fork brace wi the fender and a steering dampener will help. Possibly look at cartridge emulators.

Are the stacks filtered at all? I wonder if a uni sock filter may do the trick.

mudguard for rear fender??
 

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It looks as though you have nearly everything sorted. I'm sure the CR fairing will look superb.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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What do you guys think of an R6 front end from a 1999 model?
I'm thinking it would give me damper adjustment, better brakes, better everything... Maybe one of the more simple swaps.

Would be my first attempt at that, so I'd have a lot of questions.

Something like this to get started.
Yamaha YZFR6 R6 600 Straight Front End Forks Clamps Wheel Excellent 1999 to 2002 | eBay

If you have access to a welder and a lathe it's easy to make anything fit. Not sure how different the stems are in length. You also need to consider making wheels work or replacing them with modern ones that fit the front end. Then you have swingarm swap issues.

Allballs may have a kit for you but I can almost guarantee you will need to make stem length changes.

Take rake and trail into consideration too as most modern front ends fit shorter on older frames.
 

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Suzuki used the same stem bearings across many models for decades. You can pretty much take your pick. I think some early GSXR forks were cartridge style and RSU, if you want to keep the look.
 

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Funnily enough the stem bearings on my Intruder 1500 are still the same size as the old GS ones (Upper: 25 x 47 x 15, Lower: 30 x 55 x 17).

So, if you were game for a laugh you could use one of those.....that would give you a 150/80-16 front tyre.....all the brat douches would be green with envy....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks a lot for the info, you guys.

I think the best thing for me to do is after the summer, take the front end off and confirm the dimensions of the components. (I've learned this the hard way with other things.)

Then I will post back here and we can discuss options like what you've suggested already. Then we can confirm what will work and I'll order the parts. Should be really fun, I'll definitely keep you updated.

The wideband is very cool, I'll post up some more info on that too as I get some more time. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Anyone else have some experience with clutches not disengaging?
Before I had this problem, I was riding the bike to get it warmed up in preparation for an oil change.

Parked the bike, changed the oil and filter, then didn't start the bike again for about 2 weeks.

At 2 weeks, I started the bike to prime the oil filter and engine, and added some more oil to get the level right.

That's when I realized that the clutch wouldn't disengage.
Thinking the discs were sticking together, I removed the clutch cover and the clutches to inspect them.

As I knew from the recent slippage, a couple steel friction plates were burnt up a little... though nothing looked warped. (I didn't measure for flatness yet.)
They were still a little oily, so I didn't add anymore oil to the plates and put them back in.

Same story.. clutch won't disengage.
I held the rear brake down while giving it some throttle with the clutch in while running on the center-stand.. It was able to rev up and but just wouldn't go back to normal.

Maybe there is some wear in the basket notches and the plates aren't allowed to freely move? I can check that tomorrow.

You thinking getting the bike hot, changing the oil, then not circulating oil immediately through the transmission/clutch was the problem? I dunno.
I can get more information tomorrow.

I did notice one of the pressure plate spring threaded holes is stripped... so I am trying to replace the basket anyway.
Will post pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There are a couple more plates at the bottom of the basket held in with piano wire. I will get them out tomorrow and inspect.
Seems a little more logical that if a couple plates will stick together, the higher heat towards the core of the engine will affect the plates closest.

Sticky buggers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I think I figured out the clutch issue.
3 or 4 of the steel driven plates had a small amount of warp to them, so I rummaged through my parts and replaced them with other true discs.

Maybe one of the bigger issues was I needed to warm the bike up while getting oil circulating through everything.
I was eventually able to hold the rear brake and throttle up the engine to slip past that nonsense. I will screw around with it some more tomorrow and see if everything is back to "normal."
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just got this in from Airtech today.
It's a CR-750 replica.



If I get some time this weekend, I might mock it up. Quality looks really nice on first inspection.
 

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That looks interesting.

Not sure how it would fit, but a KZ900/1000 tank would probably look better on there as it's more swooping like the fairing. Just a thought.
 

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Did you talk to Dutch or anyone at Airtech before ordering? I suspect that fairing is going to be too small for the GS. The GS is quite a bit bigger than the CR 750 and fairings are finicky about what they fit. Airtech only sells a replacement fairing for the GS750E that is a direct replica of the original, they don't have any full fairings for it. Once you buy from Airtech it yours. I'm the only one I know of after talking to people who have experience with Airtech that has actually had a fairing replaced by them because it was so warped out of shape. Took a year to get it done though.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Did you talk to Dutch or anyone at Airtech before ordering? I suspect that fairing is going to be too small for the GS. The GS is quite a bit bigger than the CR 750 and fairings are finicky about what they fit. Airtech only sells a replacement fairing for the GS750E that is a direct replica of the original, they don't have any full fairings for it. Once you buy from Airtech it yours. I'm the only one I know of after talking to people who have experience with Airtech that has actually had a fairing replaced by them because it was so warped out of shape. Took a year to get it done though.
Hi, Marc!

Yup, spoke with Dutch and Walt several times.
I already put the fairing on to test fit and it looks great to me.

Thanks for looking out for me though.
 
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