1983 Honda VF750s Cafe Build

1196 Views 23 Replies 9 Participants Last post by knappyfeet, 2 mo ago

Brodyb

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

Hi there, I recently purchased a project bike that I am looking to turn into a cafe racer-style bike. The base is a 1983 honda V45 Sabre. The bike was in running condition when purchased, with a fuel leak coming from the carburetors. I have since disassembled and reassembled the carbs after cleaning whilst replacing the gaskets and the leak has been resolved. As such, I now have a fully functioning motorcycle to start modifying into my Cafe Racer. I am fully aware that this model motorcycle is quite large and does not necessarily fit the traditional Cafe Racer body, but I believe I can make it work. I know it will be a lot of work, which is not something I am afraid of but rather something I embrace.
My plans to do so include the following:
1. Suspension adjustments:

Lower the front fork.

Raise the tail.

2. Modernize instrument cluster and electronics.

Headlight

Taillights

Signal lights

Gauges

Battery - move to lithium?

3. Reduce weight where possible

Remove unnecessary parts including fairings

Aiming for an almost "naked" look

chop/replace the seat

I'm sure there are a million other things that I am forgetting, but that is why I am here. I know there are a lot of people who know a lot more than I do, so instead of coming across everything the hard (and expensive) way, I'm hoping to get ahead of it.

Here is the current state of the bike. I look forward to hearing everyone's opinions. Cheers

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Brodyb

Discussion Starter · #2 · 2 mo ago

The first thing I am wanting to address is the suspension setup while the bike is torn down. I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations as to how to go about this. I want to increase the ride height. The obvious answer is to replace the rear shock with something longer. I am curious if there are any other ways to go about this, such as perhaps changing the geometry of the supporting linkage on the bottom end of the shock. Additionally if increasing the length of the shock is the only way to go about this, will I run into any issues with the maneuverability of the direct drive linkage?

TrialsRider

· #3 · 2 mo ago

Brodyb said:
...has any recommendations as to how to go about this. I want to increase the ride height. The obvious answer is to replace the rear shock with something longer. I am curious if there are any other ways to go about this, such as perhaps changing the geometry of the supporting linkage on the bottom end of the shock. Additionally if increasing the length of the shock is the only way to go about this, will I run into any issues with the maneuverability of the direct drive linkage?

If you want to make the Sabre more like an Interceptor, why not just follow what Honda did. Starting with the wheel sizes the Sabre had a 17" rear and a 18" front where the Interceptor had a 18" rear and 16" front.

Some pro-link rear suspension systems are much easier to height adjust then others, yours is not one of the cheaper/easier ones to alter.

TrialsRider

· #4 · 2 mo ago

Brodyb said:
...
3. Reduce weight where possible

Remove unnecessary parts including fairings
Aiming for an almost "naked" look
chop/replace the seat

What fairings? Hard for your bike to be anything other then a naked bike considering it started out naked

if you want to reduce the weight start replacing some of the steel bits with aluminum bits.

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CaTacL1sm

· #5 · 2 mo ago

Take a look at what guys were doing with Superbikes in the early 80s and lean into that...

- First a full service according to clymer/haynes manual... then I would do the following:

New wheel and stem bearings (I prefer all balls brand)
Check swingarm bushings
New braided brake lines and fluid
Superbike Bars
New clutch and throttle cables, correct length for new bars
Best tires you can afford
New fuel lines and in-line fuel filters.
Stock length Hagon rear shock
Race Tech fork springs and cartridge emulators

That will get you a solid start and a great riding bike.
Be careful messing with the ride height because it can make the bike unpredictable if you don't know what you're doing. Also avoid pod filters, the airbox is more than good enough for now.

Play to the bikes strengths (of it being a hot rod vs something light and nimble) and you'll find it much easier and more enjoyableto ride. You'll also get a lot of street cred from people worth impressing.

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8ball

· #6 · 2 mo ago

There is only one VF700 conversion that I am aware of that has been pulled off with any modicum of success…..

www.caferacer.net

1985 Honda VF700S Sabre Cafe project

Hi all. I just joined the forum and thought I'd share this project. First, a bit about who I am. My real name is Dino and I work as a European Auto Tech here in North Carolina. I've been wrenching on cars and bikes since 1975. I rebuilt my first motorcycle back then.. a Yamaha 80cc 2-stroke...

www.caferacer.net

www.caferacer.net

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knappyfeet

· #7 · 2 mo ago

I remember Fred Merkels Superbike of the 80's and lusted over that. To me that's as fast, cafe, and hard ass as you can get with a 45 of that era. That radiator looks like it was off a Honda civic...so big.

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The first new bike I ever purchased myself was an 85 sabre and it was fabulous. Not the Interceptor I wanted but the only V-4 I could afford at the time. YSS is a good shock and may offer various lengths as they off shocks for your year.

Good luck with your project and whatever you do make sure the bike is ridable and safe and not just an art piece.

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Brodyb

Discussion Starter · #8 · 2 mo ago

Thank you all for the input thus far. I will definitely take these things into consideration. My primary focus is rideability as you have mentioned it is the most important thing.

TrialsRider said:
If you want to make the Sabre more like an Interceptor, why not just follow what Honda did. Starting with the wheel sizes the Sabre had a 17" rear and a 18" front where the Interceptor had a 18" rear and 16" front.

Some pro-link rear suspension systems are much easier to height adjust than others, yours is not one of the cheaper/easier ones to alter.

This is definitely one way to go, but I have two considerations that relate.
1. I am wanting to increase the distance between the rear tire and seat, and therefore I am leaning more towards adjusting the suspension as opposed to changing the (height of the) rear tire.

2. How difficult is it to find rims that are compatible with the direct drive? Not only for this but I am wanting to go to a wider tire. From what I have seen thus far online I have only seen people talking about the one rim size. I have never dealt with anything direct drive before so this is a whole new area I am trying to learn about. Please forgive me if I sound naive in this regard.

CaTacL1sm said:
Take a look at what guys were doing with Superbikes in the early 80s and lean into that...

- First a full service according to clymer/haynes manual... then I would do the following:

New wheel and stem bearings (I prefer all balls brand)

Check swingarm bushings

New braided brake lines and fluid

Superbike Bars

New clutch and throttle cables, correct length for new bars

Best tires you can afford

New fuel lines and in-line fuel filters.

Stock length Hagon rear shock

Race Tech fork springs and cartridge emulators

That will get you a solid start and a great riding bike.
Be careful messing with the ride height because it can make the bike unpredictable if you don't know what you're doing. Also avoid pod filters, the airbox is more than good enough for now.

Play to the bikes strengths (of it being a hot rod vs something light and nimble) and you'll find it much easier and more enjoyableto ride. You'll also get a lot of street cred from people worth impressing.

This is a good list of things to look into and I will do just that. I do have a couple of questions right off the bat.
1. You mentioned a Hagon stock length shock. Are there any immediate troubles if I go slightly longer to adjust the ride height? I am aware of the effects this can have on the geometry, but I will do the necessary calculations to ensure the rake, trail, etc are where I am aiming to get them. I am under the assumption that this will have to be done in conjunction with whatever modification is done to the front end, and therefore something I want to figure out early and all at once to avoid problems down the road.

2. When you said to avoid pod filters is that because they are not NEEDED or because they are not reliable/effective? I was considering them so that I could remove the airbox and use the space for other things (namely a new battery hopefully).

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TrialsRider

· #9 · 2 mo ago

Brodyb said:
...
2. When you said to avoid pod filters is that because they are not NEEDED or because they are not reliable/effective? I was considering them so that I could remove the airbox and use the space for other things (namely a new battery hopefully).

Look at the intake stacks that are on it now.
... and note the rim sizes on the interceptor that knappy posted, tall rear, tiny front

Brodyb

Discussion Starter · #10 · 2 mo ago

TrialsRider said:
Look at the intake stacks that are on it now.
... and note the rim sizes on the interceptor that knappy posted, tall rear, tiny front

Would I be able to get rims that I could use with the direct drive? If not then this might be out of the question no?

TrialsRider

· #11 · 2 mo ago

The drive does complicate altering the rear wheel, the front you can change relatively easy enough.

Brodyb

Discussion Starter · #12 · 2 mo ago

Yes, the front is almost certainly going to be changed for something smaller. I am more concerned about the rear at the moment. As I mentioned whatever I choose to do there is going too directly affect the geometry of the bike which is why I am wanting to address it first.

TrialsRider

· #13 · 2 mo ago

Altering the ride height could create issues with your shaft drive for sure, I wouldn't mess with that geometry. Front would benefit from more beefy forks and upgraded everything, but it's still going to be a heavy framed interceptor type bike.
... also one of the hardest honda models to service

Tinsnips

· #14 · 2 mo ago

I agree with the advice given above, just also consider that changing wheel sizes may limit your options in tires. Finding matching 16” and 18” tires is not easy.

Reactions: 1

woodsman

· #15 · 2 mo ago

I am with C Tac on the overall direction. It would be a nice rider with suspension and rubber upgrades, customized riding position. A 17" on the front should make it a little quicker responding and would give you a good tire selection.

Corbin made a seat, likely a used one around.

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CaTacL1sm

· #16 · 2 mo ago

That seat looks great

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mkwilcox

· #17 · 2 mo ago

I like your bike selection, while it presents some interesting challenges, the bike/engine have great bones and will make a very capable sport tourer with an opportunity to give it a cafe look. I had one and wish I hadn't sold it.

Have you inspected your cams? Early model years were notorious for top end oil starvation.

Go slowly while dropping your forks in the triple trees, things quickly go unstable.

You might be able to do a drive shaft to chain conversion. I believe that some 500s had a chain drive.

+1 on a fork upgrade and wheel size swap.

Good luck!

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Brodyb

Discussion Starter · #18 · 2 mo ago

mkwilcox said:
I like your bike selection, while it presents some interesting challenges, the bike/engine have great bones and will make a very capable sport tourer with an opportunity to give it a cafe look. I had one and wish I hadn't sold it.

Have you inspected your cams? Early model years were notorious for top end oil starvation.

Go slowly while dropping your forks in the triple trees, things quickly go unstable.

You might be able to do a drive shaft to chain conversion. I believe that some 500s had a chain drive.

+1 on a fork upgrade and wheel size swap.

Good luck!

No, I haven't inspected the cams, but will definitely do so now. As for the triple tree, I'm likely not going to move them down too much, but will also be extending the rear shock to adjust the riding position. I am currently in the process of doing the math on how much length to add for an acceptable ride height, whilst keeping stability. Definitely looking at a fork upgrade as well, although that may be further down the line. I hadn't seen any of the chain drive 500s, but I will certainly look into it. Thanks for the input!

Farmer_John

· #19 · 2 mo ago

I saw the pic of what you started with. Please consider putting it back together and riding it as is. Looked like a real survivor of that era. Or at least change it, one thing at a time, so if you don't like that result, it'll be easier to reverse it. Most of all, don't get into it over your skill level. THOUSANDS of well intending owners have NEVER finished projects, ruining some pretty ridable motorcycles.

So, there are Hondaline fairings out there that are a fit for that bike, bolts on with standard gear in place.

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Brodyb

Discussion Starter · #20 · 2 mo ago

Farmer_John said:
I saw the pic of what you started with. Please consider putting it back together and riding it as is. Looked like a real survivor of that era. Or at least change it, one thing at a time, so if you don't like that result, it'll be easier to reverse it. Most of all, don't get into it over your skill level. THOUSANDS of well intending owners have NEVER finished projects, ruining some pretty ridable motorcycles.

So, there are Hondaline fairings out there that are a fit for that bike, bolts on with standard gear in place.

View attachment 107572

I actually have a fairing that the previous owner had as well. As for the bike, I do intend to alter it from its original state. I do also have a second bike which is largely intact as well. I am planning on restoring that one after I'm done with the cafe project. I don't have any clear-cut pictures of it but I believe it is in the background of some of the others I have posted. It is in fairly good shape as well, just needs a little love, and maybe some of the fenders from the one I am converting.

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