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Discussion Starter #42
Fair enough seanbarney41. Also thank for the hand impact screw driver tip Cyorg. That actually worked to get that screw out. I've continued to strip and clean the carbs. For the most part they look in descent condition:

IMG_20181021_143939.jpg
 

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YThe up swept exhaust, that's where you want it, out of the road. If it was an actual cafe racer you were trying to emulate then suspension behaviour and exhaust dragging would be two areas to be addressed. You want to degrade the handling and drop the exhaust, which is more likely to drag with your shitty suspension. The circle of strife.
Geez, that is one of the "engineering innovations" of my tuber:

3) UNDERSLUNG EXHAUST (U.S. patent 6,267,193): Exhaust systems give off heat, which begs the question: Why place hot exhaust pipes near the legs of riders where they can possibly injure themselves and why have the pipes off on the side of the bike where they impede on aerodynamics and cause weight distribution issues? Those are the questions Buell asked when devising an exhaust system that rests under the center of the bike, providing improved mass central-ization and better comfort for the rider. The design of the underslung exhaust is also beneficial thanks to its triangular shape, which flows into the lean angle of the bike, while the use of high-grade steel enables the muffler to act as a jack point. If imitation is the sincerest form of flattery then Buell should be proud as other bike makers are adopting the underslung exhaust concept: “It’s great to see that others are getting wise about this,” he says.

https://www.adandp.media/articles/buell-motorcycle-engineering-innovation-and-dedication
 

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Geez, that is one of the "engineering innovations" of my tuber:
No idea what this means.

I agreed with Buell back then, on all points of his thinking. My point was that the up swept that was there made more sense than what he had planned, especially after his suspension work.
 

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tuber here is an endearing nickname for a Tube framed Buell...as opposed to the later aluminum framed bikes which also doubled as the gas tank
 

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Not really a good nickname for a M/C .... tuber ANATOMY a rounded swelling or protuberant part..... or a root vegetable like a spud.

Or was the underslung exhaust designed to fill up that space created by mounting virtually the entire (tall) engine above the axle line so it wouldn't look like something outa Mad Max? ... and lower the C of G a millimetre?
 

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There does seem to be a slight dent on the frame on that corner. Based on everything else i saw on the bike I would not be surprised if the engine had been taken out and dropped on that mount point, and snapped off. Alternatively it could have been some sort of other high speed impact like Cyorg said. The remaining mounts are in good condition. When I bought the bike it did run and I did ride it home for about 2.5 hours (which in retrospective was probably one of the more stupid things i've ever done, given the condition of the bike). So it would appear that the damage is only external. Disassembly will show the full condition. I mean for $400 CAD one can't really expect much.
your bike was crashed, dent in the frame tube? better get out the string and make sure the wheels are still in alignment.

one can only expect what one can inspect. Money, even $400 CAD, has nothing to do with it. Don't dismiss things like this with "meh, it's cheap" because this is usually where your bike ends up costing you a fortune. as I said before - get out the string and chalk and make sure the bike's alignment is still square....oh wait, you can't because you hacked it apart already. sigh.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
i'll look into it and see if things are as they should be. I do recall when i bought it that running it through a puddle in a straight line produced 1 wet line (2 completely overlapping lines). Either way i don't mind the work/money it will cost, as i am not in a hurry to complete it. And even if it does i'm sure i'll still find a use for it. Could always build an art piece of a motorcycle to keep in my basement entertainment room as a piece of furniture (in a non working condition). For now things are still on though.
 

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Hello everybody,
I started building a cafe racer out of a 1983 Honda VF750S (v45 Sabre) a few weeks ago. I would love to hear opinions on the progress. It is my first bike build so bare with me as I still have lots to learn.

Here is one of the designs for the final result i came up with:


:eek:

View attachment 95473

Also since pictures kind of don't show the ... full picture ... i started taping my work as well. Check it out:
what is that girly sounding accent/inflection in your verbage ? are you a goddam mexican in canada ?not th at that would be any kind of issue
however you are in canada and appear to be dumb as a day old canadian
 

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Discussion Starter #50
ye I also live in a igloo and end all my sentences in EH! Did i mention i also spell coloUr and centRe like the queen does, eh. But i figured you already knew those.

I am actually kind of surprised, and disappointed, that you weren't able to put 2 and 2 together and recognize the slav Adidas track suits, and the name of my channel, and deduce that I am not Mexican but rather from the Balkan region in south-eastern Europe.
 

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Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Iz nose duh anserz to dat onez, is 4 aints it?
That made me LOL.

Anyways to bring things back on topic. Here is what i managed to do so far with the carbs. LINK

Now i do plan on getting a rebuild kit for the carbs and replacing the bolts, o-ring, gaskets and so on. My question for the more experienced people here is:

I plan on putting pod filters or some other more direct method of getting clean air into the carbs. I've read/heard that when doing such a setup it is a good idea to step the jets up in size as well. More air needs more fuel, makes sense. So how much bigger is the question? I've heard that doing +15 in size is a good number to aim for. Is there any truth to that? What would you recommend? Is there a difference in how much of a jump should be done for the main jet and the slow jet, or they should be increased by roughly the same amount?
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Thank you, read through it, lots of good info. Will stick with current jets, and get things working as is, then start change one factor at a time to achieve the desired performance.
 

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hey i was making fun fer fuks sake
of course i knew he is a godam gypsie,but that is ok in my book
ffs people dry up and recognize obvious funny shit when youi read it
anyway i have posessed at least 50 sets of early honda vfour carbs many of them still mounted to the airbox bottom
and i always marvelled at the beautiful design and engineering that honda applies to intake tune
those velocity stacks are very important as is the airbox resinant volume
it is a fools road to travel trying to improve what honda has done
in fact it is impossible to improve anything about it with pods
not only is the intake port optimized for a certain target rpm range via the rubber velocity stacks whose job is to lengthen the intake port so as to catch the 3rd sonic wave pulse
and at the same time the resinant volume of the airbox allows sound energy to be an enhancement between 2 cylinders
the stock cv carbs work so well, very close to fi once warmed up, yes they are air-dernsity sensitive and compensate for altitude /weather ...that it is very unwise to fuck with them ...pods completely yank all of that wonderfull engineering tune out of the engine
put your time and energy into making the suspension work and if you really want to improve modify the way the fd is and make it so that it no longer limits handling
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Appreciate the wise words from both @dirkchecken and @XB33BSA. I knew there had to be more to the design of the air box, especially since they changed its design almost immediately. Now it makes sense why the 1982 V45 Sabre has air coming in from the sides into the air box. But the 1983 V45 Sabre has it coming in through the top. You guys are totally right. I'll re-evaluate my options with the airbox, will need to figure out a better spot for the electronics that need to be relocated. Again thanks for the expert advice.
 

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If you don't change your approach it's going to turn out to be piece of shit to ride. When are you going to deal with things that make a bike worth riding. The first thing on the budget should be repairing the front suspension you fucked up.
 

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If you don't change your approach it's going to turn out to be piece of shit to ride. When are you going to deal with things that make a bike worth riding. The first thing on the budget should be repairing the front suspension you fucked up.
Would you like to explain how the forks are F'd up? Is it just the three inch drop or the complete lack of preload in revised format because he shortened the spring by 3" and failed to add three inches back to the spacer to maintain the stock preload. Or you alluding to the fact that 3" rebound springs are way too long and really mess up static sag?

I have one bike on which I cut two inches off the springs and used them as rebound springs with >2" longer spacers to drop the bike for drag racing. I have another with solid spacers in place or rebound springs with super long spacers - again on a drag bike. Both work but not really suitable for the street.

It will be interesting to see the revised rake and trail numbers on this project when it's assembled. I suspect that rake might be OK but trail may be lacking - along with cornering clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
For now I don't have a designated spot for the project bike in my garage where i can walk around and work on the project, so i need it to be in a rolling state. So until engine, frame, and electronic relocation are handled i'll keep it as is. I will come back to dealing with both the front and the rear suspension later on.

Now on the topic of fucking it up. Maybe someone can enlighten me on where my mistake was. This is what i have done:

Original state:
|--3" 1/4--|-------21"-------|||--------1"------------| Total Depth to cover: 25" 1/4
|--spacer--|--main spring--|||--rebound spring--|

Modified state:
|--4" 2/4--|-------18"----|||-----------3"------------| Total Depth to cover: 25" 2/4
|--spacer--|--main spring--|||--rebound spring--|

My thought process was that by having the rebound spring enlarged, and the spacer increased by 1" (aka what used to be the rebound spring), and adding an 1/4" extra for preload I would achieve the exact same travel characteristics. Main difference being the fork tube sits 2" lower into the bottom piece, compression travel is more or less the same (this is where i know im probably wrong and its actually less). So ye if someone could shed some light on this it be great.
 
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