Cafe Racer Forum banner

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Was looking for a cafe racer type of bike for summer, however, did not want spend much. Found a guy selling BMW R1100RS, which he already stripped and converted to some sort of cafe racer type of beast. However, the problem was the bike he had was all in bits. It did not sell on eBay, so I got in touch with the dude and offered him a price. Long story short, dude delivered the project in bits over to me. It was a bit daunting, as everything was stripped and painted / powder-coated. So this is what my workplace R&D laboratory looks like now…

Screenshot 2019-04-25 at 18.53.58.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,303 Posts
cue the part where you tell us this is your first bike and you you want to know what tools to buy, and whether a manual is a good idea or not. LOL

just kidding. Welcome. I have no idea what a cafe racer oil head would look like, most of what I have seen would fall more into the hatcheted deathtrap abomination category, but good on you for not letting that stop you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,688 Posts
It's easy to take them apart and powder coat things, the trick is in putting them back together and having them work. I'm wondering why he didn't put it together and how little did you pay?

As well as: Do you have a motorcycle background? Did it come with a factory service manual? How do you know all the parts are there? Would you be interested in paying a fellow Brit a handsome sum (too make up for his last project) to assemble it for you...he does nice work, know beemers?

Had to add one.
index.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,587 Posts
If that is EVERYTHING he gave you in that pic you do not have a complete motorcycle to re-assemble.

Good luck with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hey guys, thanks for kind replies, not very encouraging, however, I understand the stereotype. One buys a bike, comes to a forum to ask questions that have been answered 1000s of times already.

I'm here just to share experience.

Screenshot 2019-04-26 at 06.59.58.png

When I bought it, the dude said the engine is from 2001 bike, the reg number shows the bike being 1993 BMW R1100RS. The engine looks like it’s seen better days. Rusted aluminium. The guy said he’d done the cylinder heads and apparently it outputs 125 bhp instead of original 90. Did check, it does crank, so at least this is good news. Should probably throw everything together and see it at least runs before cleaning, but I simply cannot work greasy parts. So will crack on with some kind of degreaser to get all the bolts and other small bits cleaned.

Do you have a motorcycle background? Did it come with a factory service manual? How do you know all the parts are there? Would you be interested in paying a fellow Brit a handsome sum (too make up for his last project) to assemble it for you...he does nice work, know beemers?

Some answers to asked questions:
I dont' have any formal moto background, however, I know my way around mechanics a bit.

The service manual I found on the net.
I don't know all the parts are there, however, that's even better, makes it harder to complete the build in my eyes.
I will have a go myself before paying someone else to do it, I tend to like things a bit more when I build them them with my own hands.
Have no idea about beemers :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Done some degreasing of small parts. The parts are from 1993 so that makes them 26 years old. Rust will be an issue. Bought some degreaser, dropped everything into a bucket, left it there for an hour, then used a small brush to remove stubborn grease. After rinsing it with clean water, cleaned all of them with microfibre cloth. Lots of bolts washers and various parts. Have no idea where they go… Yet! The BMW service manual is awesome piece of material though. Youtube is another.

Screenshot 2019-04-26 at 07.10.17.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,878 Posts
I've been commuting on a 1994 R1100RS for the last 4 years.
Nice enough bike, but not sure I'd fancy assembling one from a box of bits....Good luck.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
looks like a gs tank.

125 would be a pretty strong 1100 4v. not sure i'd believe that personally.

anyway, good luck. so glad i dont work on those things anymore, although those early ones weren't that bad compared to the later shit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,688 Posts
If the avatar is a picture of you then at least you're young enough you should be able to have it ready for retirement.

The manual may have a parts list but if not and you could track one down then the it will be easier to determine whats missing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,883 Posts
Damn! I just lost another perfectly good post to the ethernet :|
So I'll just say Hi :D good luck and stick around, you're going to need the guys on here.

I like making up names for the motorcycles on here to remember them by, yours I am going to name Waldo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Rear differential. This was quite some job to clean up, was fully covered in grease and stubborn oil. However, slowly but surely I managed to remove most of it. The axle had loads of dirt inside. The bearings are a bit scruffy, however, they do seem to work alright, so hopefully won’t have to rebuild this. It does have some flaky aluminium oxidation at the end, which I need to decide what to do with. Previous owner applied some kind of silver paint to it, however, it all stripped when I applied brake cleaner to it. I believe my options are to repaint it again using more durable paint or take it completely apart, send it to vapour blasting and then powder coat it.

Screenshot 2019-04-26 at 17.48.50.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,322 Posts
At least it looks like its all clean and neatly organized. Unlike my shop which often looks like a few cars and bikes exploded parts and tools all over and I can never find the godamned 10mm socket or one of my 40 spark plug gapping tools and then Im just getting pissed and glad that I keep a glass bottle Pepsi machine stocked with cold beer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,883 Posts
Is called the final drive assembly
;) "differential" would imply you have 2 rear wheels that need to change speed relative to one another to go around corners.

You can easy find video on the net to show you what is inside there, I would be inclined to leave it together unless you absolutely suspect a problem. The bearing is critical as that is what you and the entire bike is riding on. BMW in typical fashion built it very sturdy, mine is different yet very similar, it survived a rear end collision by a truck 32 years ago and so far my rear wheel has stayed on there. ymmv.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
if there is oil in the rear drive then in the photo it's getting into the breather and may be inclined to piss out once it's up the right way and fitted. they can be a bit of a pita. we had to rebuild a few k1200lt ones and that wasn't fun. the pivot bearings at the front get lines across the inner cones, so check them and replace if in doubt. like a lot of stuff on these, there's a specific tightening procedure, and the really good loctite is required. the green 270 is what they recommended, we used that or wurth green. not sure what the equivalent is now.

those engines are pretty durable. we saw a few round the world type guys on gs that would need the heads done because they'd got hot transversing a desert crawling along at 6,000 rpm in first sort of thing becuase they were carrying 150kg more than recommended, and the guides were loose. think we had a trade in run the mains and big ends too, but that was the only one i ever saw the cases open on.

although if you use the alleged 125 often it might not be so.

looks like typical uk winter salt paint damage. when you have the white corrosion under the paint, your only option is stripping, some sort of blasting and redoing properly in paint or powder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,878 Posts
If I can add my two penneth.
Remove the drain plug first, if the oil is reasonably clean, and there's nothing nasty attached to the magnet on the drain plug the bearings may well be okay. If the bevel box was covered in oil, and grease you may well need to replace a seal, but who knows?
If you just want to repaint it you should be able to get a decent finish without pulling it apart, just lots of time rubbing down, and careful masking before spraying.
Rebuilding the bevel box isn't easy, special tools required, bearings to be shimmed, best to send it to a specialist.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,107 Posts
Personally if I were you, i would follow Stevo's advise. I'm not a BMW guy, but have the necessary tools and hydraulic press necessary to do a Honda one. If there is crap attached to the drain plug, then you may want to gamble on a used one off of Ebay. Needed one a while back and found one on Ebay that ended up costing almost nothing. I prefer to spend my time strolling to the mailbox rather than farting around with backlash and preload unless its interesting valve gear. The first thing I would be doing with that bike... (well not that bike,because if I was going to buy a basket case, then it be a little different) is sorting out the inventory. There are bits that could be damaged or missing that are a game changer, so best to figure it out before you start spending money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thank you all for such a great advice and even to those who made comments of how ridiculous this project is.

Ready for cleaning. It’s badly pitted though will see what can be done about that. Firstly need to remove all that grime and grease, which accumulated over the years. It seems previous owners did not really care too much about painting preparation and simply spray painted over all the oxidation and dirt. Will have a go at it with brake cleaner from Screwfix, engine cleaner from Eurocarparts, Isopropyl Alcohol, which I have borrowed from laboratory (essentially 99.9% pure alcohol) and some heavy duty mixed degreaser from Screwfix.

Screenshot 2019-04-27 at 08.22.03.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
After around 6 hours of scrubbing, rubbing and sanding, I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Identified few problems along the way. The major one is that pins for the exhaust headers snapped and are rusted inside, so these will have to be somehow extracted. One of the pins does not even have the mounting hole, has been completely ripped apart. Talked to an expert, suggested to get these pins extracted by drilling them out and then cleaning the threads using a tap. However, it seems the one that has been completely destroyed. Also battery mounting bracket bolts, that screw into the engine seem comfortably rusted in. These have rubber vibration dampers, which hold battery bracket, and also have been twisted off.

Screenshot 2019-04-27 at 15.42.24.png
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Top