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Discussion Starter #1
Buddy of mine just purchased one of these beautiful pieces of machinery but has had some issues. I've ridden it as we'll and encountered the same issues so I know there's something going on. For whatever reason, when slowing down/downshifting to 3rd or 2nd gear the bike will just completely die. If you try and dump the clutch to bring it back to life, nothing. You have to come to a complete stop, turn the bike off, pull the key out of the ignition, then place the key back in the ignition and start over to get it back on. Pretty ridiculous.

Also, false neutrals Are a norm. The digital screen will say you've shifted from 1st-2nd and then it slips into neutral.

Bike was brand new, purchased from a shop in Austin, Tx which is where it was assembled. We live in dallas, so the local MV dealer honored the warranty. They couldn't figure it out, and the only thing they changed was the quick shift. It was off, they turned it on and it hasn't had a problem since. However, when the quick shift is off the same situation occurs. This could be a sign of ignorance on our part, or something really could be going on. Any info or similar issues explained would be helpful. Thanks for your time,

Clint C
 

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Sell the cheap Italian horror while it's new and shiny, and get a real bike like late model R1 or a GSXR. Pass the problem onto some other guy.

The Italian electrics are not going to get any better with age and use. You could have a short or voltage spike coming from the loom, the big black box or a weak battery. Even for professional bike electrix guys diagnosing these kinds of problems can be virtually impossible.

Get the bike running without the quick shift, leave it off and don't use it.

False neutrals really only mean two things: bad shifting technique, or gearbox dogs, forks or shifter quadrant problems. I'd rather have a quality Suzuki or Yamaha box of gears anyday.

If you think you can ride one of these things around town at 30mph in high gears at like 4K rpm and expect it to run like a Prius and be happy, and it maybe overheats and stalls; I think you are fooling yourselves.

Phone the importer direct to get a straight answer.

If you want a good Italian bike, get a 1098 Ducati.

I wouldn't lift my spanners to work on a late model MV, even for 150 bucks an hour cash in my hot little hand.

Danger, is my business.
 

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#1 everything Witworth said above is f-ing clueless, has obviously never owned or ridden an MV Agusta.


I've had an F3 since October and the only thing on it that was crap is the wire going to the horn. Spotted that problem in the showroom :/
Yes the batteries are tiny enough that MV ships it with a tiny trickle charger, which your dealership will likely steal from you, along with the track stand that came in the crate.
… they will try and sell you the wheel stand for 300+$ to increase their profit margin.

Bike performs, shifts, handles and operates as good or far superior to any motorcycle I've ever ridden.
It's a nice bike to work on, although you will need to buy some spline key tools and decent range of torque wrenches if you don't already have them.

I have been and shall be performing most or all of my own service, particularly as ALL of the Canadian MV agusta shop mechanics are noobies at their job.
… MV's have never officially been represented in Canada prior to last year, so it's not like they have valuable previous experience.


Don't 'blip' the engine a lot. Bikes with fly by wire, computer controlled fuel injection, thrive on smooth and accurate throttle control.
Stalls and miss-shifts here -> zero

Proper operating instructions: gently engage clutch with engine at idle, roll on throttle to achieve desired altitude of front wheel and grin:D


If you don't like total strangers admiring your motorcycle or occasionally asking how much it cost, or hot looking girls actually notice your bike, you probably shouldn't consider an MV Agusta :rolleyes:
 

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TrialsRider, I have ridden MV Agustas actually. Like real red ones, and old ones. Even got my grubbly hands on a sixtie's one with twin disc brakes once.

So what you're saying is the fly by wire throttle doesn't work very well? Should have bought an R1 :)

I prefer knowing where hot women live, and I do. Over attracting them with toys.

Danger, is my business.

PS You should buy a Harley, whose owners always overlook the faults, after throwing way too much cash at the horrors.
 

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...So what you're saying is the fly by wire throttle doesn't work very well? ...
No, I said the bike works superlative.
& I'm saying 'you' wouldn't know shit about it, and probably would be very bad at operating it,
and if you blip the throttle lots <- that is going to account for the majority of your operator problems.
 

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While I can't speak to the R1 engine set up, the MR1(yamaha Waverunner) engine used a fly by wire system and had a few bugs.
will not say it was crap, but took some getting used to and customers some times are slow....
 

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… it's not the fly by wire that blipping affects badly, it's the Fuel Injection control.
( plus excess heat, clutch wear, fuel consumption, valve drive lash, chain stretch etc.etc.)

Is the same situation on the Montesa Cota 4RT.
There are sensors and logic at work constantly trying to make your engine work according to real-time operating conditions.
If the operator constantly screws with the throttle, how is the bike going to sense the actual operating conditions ?:I

The fastest way to give a 4RT a tuneup, let it idle for ~5 minutes, it will sort itself out quite nicely.
 

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TrialsRider, I have ridden MV Agustas actually. Like real red ones, and old ones. Even got my grubbly hands on a sixtie's one with twin disc brakes once.

So what you're saying is the fly by wire throttle doesn't work very well? Should have bought an R1 :)

I prefer knowing where hot women live, and I do. Over attracting them with toys.

Danger, is my business.

PS You should buy a Harley, whose owners always overlook the faults, after throwing way too much cash at the horrors.

Is it your mission to insult everyone and also brag in each and every post you make ? If so you doing a very good job.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the info trials rider. Yours may have been the MV pic I saw on this forum. Like I said, the bike only acts up when the quick shift is off which is weird.
 

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Not that I know anything about modern performance street bikes but could it have something to do with the kick stand switch maybe? It shuts off the bike if you forget the kickstand down. I'm not saying you don't know how to use a kickstand but maybe the sensor is malfunctioning.
 

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Sell the cheap Italian horror while it's new and shiny, and get a real bike like late model R1 or a GSXR. Pass the problem onto some other guy.

The Italian electrics are not going to get any better with age and use. You could have a short or voltage spike coming from the loom, the big black box or a weak battery. Even for professional bike electrix guys diagnosing these kinds of problems can be virtually impossible.

Get the bike running without the quick shift, leave it off and don't use it.

False neutrals really only mean two things: bad shifting technique, or gearbox dogs, forks or shifter quadrant problems. I'd rather have a quality Suzuki or Yamaha box of gears anyday.

If you think you can ride one of these things around town at 30mph in high gears at like 4K rpm and expect it to run like a Prius and be happy, and it maybe overheats and stalls; I think you are fooling yourselves.

Phone the importer direct to get a straight answer.

If you want a good Italian bike, get a 1098 Ducati.

I wouldn't lift my spanners to work on a late model MV, even for 150 bucks an hour cash in my hot little hand.

Danger, is my business.
Alright. Hold up. Witworth. Yet again, you've shown me you know nothing. Stop reading shit and passing it off as fact dumbass.

First off, MV's main issue is their fueling, sort that out and you're golden. Electrics? Yeah, they're pretty good too. I don't think you have spanners to lift son. And the fucking 1098? That's a good Italian bike? So you've never ridden one then. Big power, big brakes, ok suspension on the base model, whatever. It's unrideable unless your Foggy. They have had way more issues than any MV I've seen. Ask me how I know. I fix these things, both MV and Ducati's for a living. I'd argue and say the Duck electrics are worse, but usually in both cases I'd say it's usually the dumbass explaining to their wives, "Honey, I'll be in the garage working on the Ducati/MV. Bring me all of my metric crescent wrenches and a 12 pack of pabst."

Some of these bikes have very very specific routing of the wiring that if one thing gets pinched, it's done. Had a customer wack full carbon on an 1198, he did it himself, got two miles down the road and the bike died. Had to bring it in, fix his loom and put it all back together, including a new dash just because he routing wires under the fairing incorrectly.

Now to Cweston. Ignore the man with the obsolete tooling as his name. First thing I would check is the shift linkage. Is it bent? You need maximum leverage, so 90 degree angles on the rose joints to their respective fittings/spline. If that shit is off, you will false neutral all over the place.

Regarding the cut off problem. Check the connectors to your ECU aren't loose. It happens. And wait, it doesn't cut off when the dealer disengages the quick shifter? Check the connector there too. The whole system cuts your ignition for a fraction of a second so you can shift seamlessly. It sounds like either the shifter is stuck internally, or the connector might be fucked up.

Anyway. I'm going back into my shop to work on almost the same problem on a 999R.

Whitworth you're a troll or an idiot.
 

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:cool: I'm a happy customer.

btw:
F3 handles gravel and off-road exceptionally well if anybody cares.

:rolleyes: pardon the mess of my back yard, I'm stacking the rock to ride my other bikes on.
 

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not that this is your specific issue but have seen fly by wire throttle skips and ignition cut outs cured with proper use of dielectric grease in connector's..
you can go to any ford dealer and get #xg-12 which is a specific grease formulated for electrical connector's...dont order the earlyer #xl-3 which is for caliper slides and high voltage useage.. the '12' is better for connector useage... Just a thought..
 

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not that this is your specific issue but have seen fly by wire throttle skips and ignition cut outs cured with proper use of dielectric grease in connector's..
you can go to any ford dealer and get #xg-12 which is a specific grease formulated for electrical connector's...dont order the earlyer #xl-3 which is for caliper slides and high voltage useage.. the '12' is better for connector useage... Just a thought..
?:I if you wanted to use that stuff to keep weather and temperature created condensation, out of a 32 pin block connector, could you pack it full or how would you apply it?
… is on my trials bike, under the saddle.
 

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:cool: I'm a happy customer.

btw:
F3 handles gravel and off-road exceptionally well if anybody cares.

:rolleyes: pardon the mess of my back yard, I'm stacking the rock to ride my other bikes on.

Beautiful bike.
would very much like to ride one
 

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thats just what youd use this for ,stopping condensation corrosion and water intrusion such as ABS connecter are subjected to on 4x4's ..It clings like light chain lube...

Idealy you would load each cleaned and inspected terminal if the connector was dismanteled or dabing it into each connecter half , then working it with a flux brush... connect ,split ,reconnect to spead the product ..you could also back fill the connector if they are the open type..ford says coat insides on new stuff and connect.. (IMHO a good coating is more assured with just a bit more work...)

just dont load it as you'd not be able to compress shut a "sealed unit" .. on most connectors the excess just squeezes out the back sides..

It's great stuff for slide contacts also.. do a net search and see how other's are using it.. Harley uses an equivelent grease on their connectors and fly by wires contacts..( if its not used harleys do shut down as the op's bike does , then you have to recycle the ign. switch)
 
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