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Some may remember my little 72 Kawi G3SS... bought stock with just over 1400 miles, I got her running, did a half-cafe conversion to get it road worth, and used it as the daily driver for about 6 months. Just picked up a '93 DR350 to fill that DD duty recently, so it's now the time to do a frame up. Everything is getting either cleaned, painted or polished.

I'm sure no one cares... but here are some pictures of what she looks like thus far, and what she looked like before.

As purchased, totally stock



Points, condenser, tires, battery, bars/grips, tail, fender, some paint and whatever else... served me well as a DD like this :)



Got rid of the battery for a capacitor (no one here seemed to want to answer my question as to whether or not this could be done... so I found out myself) and stripped off the side covers. Put another few hundred miles on her like this



And now to where she sits as of today... paint/polish/cleaned everything, clip-ons (it's hard to find 27mm's!), levers/perches, grips/throttle, shaved off all unnecessary mounting tabs on the frame, and had my buddy shorten the rear hoop and weld on new mounting tabs, etc. etc. The paint's not done, and I'm making a new tail out of carbon fiber. The flash really ruined the color of the paint, it's a very nice matte Kawi green. She'll get "Kawasaki" on the tank, along with a white pinstripe around the edge of the black... she's slowly coming together.

The engine had already been cleaned, but it just wasn't good enough. The jug and head will be blasted, but for now, she looks like this.



Clip-ons



Shaved and painted frame







Polished a few bits... although you can't really tell in the pictures :)



Had to find a nicer way to mount my cap and what not... drilled and tapped the rear frame, and ended up putting holes in the rear hoop to accommodate the bolts



All my other wiring is wrapped in clear hose, and this will be as well. So don't mind the metal wire clamp looking hungry for wire insulation :)



Again, the paint doesn't look nearly this yellow...



Still waiting on some parts, including new spokes so I can re-do the wheels, as they're a bit corroded and rusty...
 

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Gotta love that Kawasaki green!

What size cap did you use on that? I've been interested in trying something similar for a minute. **EDIT** Nevermind, already found the info I needed.
 

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Gotta love that Kawasaki green!

What size cap did you use on that? I've been interested in trying something similar for a minute. **EDIT** Nevermind, already found the info I needed.
 

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nice little bike.. your letting the secret out! these little machines are a blast in neighborhoods(if your the right size/weight of course) as they go through turns like a motogp bike....gear it lower get a pipe, machine the carb cover to hold a flat screen or filter and if you want to make it even faster a larger carb and rotory valve mod...good luck
wish i would have kept the kaw g31m 100 i raced in the 70's!
[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys

Yes, they're bicycle levers. They're temporary. I wanted to get rid of the original levers with the huge housings for all of the light switches, horn button etc. I'll be getting a nice set eventually, but for $10 I couldn't say no!

The cap is a 9k uF, which seems to be blowing bulbs (however my fuse is still fine...?). I'm going to try a nice big resistor inline (I think the one on there now is a 1k ohm?) and if I can't get it to work I'll be buying a smaller cap. I've heard that most bikes like about a 7.5k uF, but we'll see how it pans out. She's also 6V which doesn't make it any easier.

As to motorcycles referred to in the feminine... would you rather be straddling a "he"? ;)

I've considered new exhaust, but there's no way I can find one for this thing... anywhere. Plus, she runs so damn well right now that I can't bring myself to play with it too much, although when I can afford a new rotary valve for when (if) I make a mistake modding mine, I'll give it a go. I'm probably going to end up with a new rear sprocket, perhaps down 1 tooth. However there are a few 50mph roads around me, so the 65-70mph top end is nice just in case. And I'm about 6' 140 lbs, so she drags my ass around pretty good as is! Although people look at my lanky ass kinda funny when I roll around on this tiny thing... lots of pointing and smiling/laughing. Take that as you will!

And yes, the cat's out of the bag. These things are a fucking HOOT. Even with my cheapo tires she sticks super well, and won't burn through tires because she weighs so little. Assuming dry pavement, my pegs will drag before I start to lose grip. A "parking lot warrior" as I like to call em. When I get really bored I'll ride over to the local MSF course parking lot that's always empty and see how fast I can take the little MSF maneuvers, hehe.

Right now I'm striping my tank, and waiting for my new throttle so I can start making new cables. New spokes are on the way, and the rims will be black. Just about ready to start making my new seat, and almost finished painting the little things... rear brake lever, kick stand, peg mount etc. The head/jug will also be removed to be blasted, as they kind of detract from the "uber super clean" thing.

More pictures soon.
 

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quote:Originally posted by Mitch F

The cap is a 9k uF, which seems to be blowing bulbs (however my fuse is still fine...?). I'm going to try a nice big resistor inline (I think the one on there now is a 1k ohm?) and if I can't get it to work I'll be buying a smaller cap. I've heard that most bikes like about a 7.5k uF, but we'll see how it pans out. She's also 6V which doesn't make it any easier.
9kuF @ what voltage? If your system is a 6v system, then the cap shouldn't dump more than 6-7v, or whatever standard overvoltage would be. the farad rating is how much juice the cap can hold before releasing, not output. If you're blowing bulbs, you got something wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It's a 12V but everything I've read indicated that so long as the voltage was equal to or greater than the necessary voltage for the bike it should be fine. I talked to one person running a 20V cap on his 12V bike and he said it had run great for over 3 years. I've been searching for a 6V cap, but there are none to be found anywhere. She runs perfect, but the bulbs aren't so happy.
 

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I would say thats the issue. Some older 12v bikes have spikes close to 18v, so a 20v cap isnt TOO insane on a 12v system. 12v dumped to a 6v bulb will definitely shorten its life.

Search for 6v or 6.3v Computer Grade caps. Seems like 6.3v is the magic number to search for. Did a quick hunt for you and came up with this ebay store. He's got a few options for you...

http://stores.ebay.com/JEA-CAPACITORS

This one in particular should work perfect for you and is about double compared to what you have now...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190349049013

not correct
 

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quote:Originally posted by YucA

I would say thats the issue. Some older 12v bikes have spikes close to 18v, so a 20v cap isnt TOO insane on a 12v system. 12v dumped to a 6v bulb will definitely shorten its life.

Search for 6v or 6.3v Computer Grade caps. Seems like 6.3v is the magic number to search for. Did a quick hunt for you and came up with this ebay store. He's got a few options for you...

http://stores.ebay.com/JEA-CAPACITORS

This one in particular should work perfect for you and is about double compared to what you have now...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190349049013
Capacitor voltage ratings have nothing to do with how they perform in a circuit, As long as you don't exceed the capacitors voltage rating it makes no difference. A 9K uf capacitor rated at 500 volts would perform the same as a 9K uf capacitor rated at 20 volts. A capacitor rated at 6.3 volts would be prone to failure in this case, since the voltage will be higher than 6.3v when the bike is running.
 
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