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My understanding was that when switched to the ohms setting, a multimeter uses battery power to force current through the circuit, and the resistance should increase as the capacitor charges. If it never rises from zero, it's not charging. Is this not correct?
Is half correct; Using the meter on the ohms setting as a tiny little battery charger is not a test for the capacitors resistance. It's the voltage that he is wanting to measure a change in, the resistance of the cap does not change, if your cap holds a measurable voltage it is probably good, if you can never get it to take on a measurable charge (voltage) it is possibly cooked.
;) resistance is futile

Have you got it going yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Here's another example why the first rule of troubleshooting is "change only one thing at a time."

I replaced the condenser and plug. The bike started right up. But I had another problem, the fuel tank leaked profusely with any more than a 1/2 tank of gas. The lip around the filler hole on my fuel tank is a bit banged up, so I made a thicker, softer neoprene gasket to replace the hard rubber one under the cap. Sloshed the tank from side to side, no leak. Yay! I grabbed my helmet and took the bike out for a shakedown cruise. About 3/4 mile from the house, the bike died suddenly. Kaput. Nothing. I coasted to the side of the road. Crap, I still had a problem. After kicking it a couple of times in vain, I heard a slight whistle coming from the tank. I twisted the cap. WOOOSH. I kicked it again and it fired right up.

So, it turns out I fixed one problem and simultaneously created another. Evidently, the thicker gasket isn't allowing it to vent for some reason. Looking at the cap, I still am not sure the path by which it vents. I'm thinking I need to create a truer, better-sealing surface for the tank lip. I'm not sure what that looks like at this point. Alternatively, I can order a repop tank from Thailand for $200.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Momentarily hijacking my own thread here, but I came across this video while researching XL/XR200 engine upgrades. I suddenly find this auto-clutch ATC200S engine swap unexpectedly intriguing. This one's just cobbled together out of junk, but when guy tries it out (around the 1:40 mark), the damned thing works a whole lot better than I ever expected it would.

 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
I haven't kept this thread updated, but I've been continuing to work on the CL. I disassembled and soaked the carb in Chem-Dip, and I'm in the process of upgrading the electrics to 12V and installing all LED lights, so that I can have reasonably safe light output on the stator's meager output of about 45-50 watts.

But... the big hurtle was the gas tank. Decent Honda CL125S tanks are virtually unobtainable, and mine was beyond saving. No matter what I did, I couldn't keep the banged-up filler lip from leaking. CB125 tanks are fairly easy to find, and new, re-pop CG125 tanks are all over Ebay, but neither would work on my bike without significant fabrication. The tank was shorter and the seat longer on the CL, so the the rear attachment point for the tank is further forward on the CL than on the other Honda 125s. (And from what I've learned, the CG125 has the front mounting doughnuts in a different location than the OHC bikes.)



Thanks to Chinese Ebay vendors wanting to sell their wares as "universal" tanks, most of the auction descriptions for new tanks include (slightly vague and sketchy) dimensions. I discovered that a Jialing JH70 had a unique, 8-liter tank that would probably work.





Two weeks ago, confident this was at least the most workable option, I gambled and ordered a tank from China for $125, including shipping. It arrived yesterday.



It fits amazingly well. The front mounting cups are slightly smaller, so I’ll need to make up new rubber doughnuts, but the mounting studs are located in the correct location. The tank fits the rear mount perfectly and needs no tweaking, but the seat will need to be moved back an inch or two, so there is some very straightforward fabrication needed there, but for the most part, we’re golden.

The next step is to make a small, simple bracket to mount the regulator/rectifier brick to the lower triple clamp, behind and below the headlight shell. Other than that, it's all minor little annoyances, but the bike should be in running shape. Then we'll see if cleaning the carb and replacing the tank have eliminated my intermittent stalling/no-start issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
While I was posting some updates to other threads about the taillight and carburetor for this bike just now, it occured to me that I haven't updated this thread in a long time. I haven't been around here very much lately; I got frustrated with the database problems CR.net has been having, but more so I frankly just got a little burned-out on documenting all the things I do as I do them, just to maintain a forum thread that nobody reads.

But, yes, I'm still playing with this bike in between all the other stuff I'm doing. I don't recall everything I covered here, so just to summarize: I got it running enough to commute to work on it, and realized that it was a much suckier bike than I remember it being as a 17-year-old new rider in 1980. The stock electrics are really lousy. The turn signals barely lit up in bright sunlight, and the headlight made riding after dark downright scary. Sooo, I got a 12 volt regulator/rectifier, a 12 volt battery, and replaced all the lights with LEDs, including the headlight. That necessitated a new 7" headlight bucket, which I sourced from a Ural.

I was continuing to have fueling issues, so I replaced the carb. The new carb won't work with the stock air cleaner boot, so I pulled the whole airbox/battery/tool box assembly. Since I have to build a new battery box, I decided to upgrade the battery to a bigger Motobatt AGM. Also, when I went to install the new tank, I realized that 1) the outlet spigot points directly at the points cover on the cylinder head with no clearance for a petcock, and 2) it requires the stock seat to be relocated rearward about 2 inches. I'm currently working to resolve those two issues.

I have changed so many electrical components that I also went ahead and drew up an accurate wiring diagram for my bike as it sits:

 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Oh, one more thing. Doing a bit of microfiche detective work, I determined that the alternator rotor, stator, and side cover from a later XR200R bolts up to my bike. I bought a side cover and rotor cheaply off Ebay and test-fitted them to verify, but I have not decided whether I want to spend the money on a stator, since the LED lights might allow the wimpy stock alternator to keep the battery charged. I will have to run it for a while to see if the upgrade is necessary, but at least I know there's a solution if needed.

 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Since my replacement tank was actually designed for a bike with a horizontal cylinder, the petcock outlet is located toward the front of the tank, unfortunately pointing right at the points cover on my cylinder head. There's no way to make a standard fuel valve fit, so I bought some 3/4" brass hex stock and made up my own threaded fitting. I now have to mount a hose barb fitting to the side of it, to make a 90-degree outlet, but I am waiting to receive the brass M8 to 1/4" barb fitting I've ordered before I drill and tap the side hole.

It will get an in-line fuel shutoff, but downside to this arrangement is that the bike won't have any fuel reserve (or fuel gauge) so the rider will have to pay careful attention to fuel range.



 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Finished my battery box for the Honda. Unfortunately, I realized when I went to install it that, while I measured it to fit the space available, I didn’t consider getting it INTO position, or how difficult it would be to get bolts inserted (from beneath) and tightened. Once I got it in the frame, I was able to mount it OR bolt up up the rear fender, but not both. Also, the fuel valve turns a quarter-turn clockwise from this position to shut off—aaaand there’s a frame tube in the way directly above it. It will have to rotate 90 degrees, at which point the fuel inlet will be pointed down, not forward. Oops.

It’s going to take a bit more head scratching, and probably more cutting, but at least it went together correctly.



Overall, though, I’m making progress. Most of the re-wiring is complete. I just need to mount the reg/rec and the 12 volt conversion will be finished. Still haven't decided whether to upgrade to an XL200R stator/engine cover. All the lighting is installed. So far, this has gotten: All LED lights, including a PM 7" headlight in a Ural bucket; a custom muffler and heat shield; new fuel tank; new carb/manifold/air filter; new tires; new chain and sprockets; new levers, switchgear, mirrors and grips; aftermarket speedometer, new fork gaiters and fork seals. It still needs a new front rim, and probably some carb jets.

Why, yes, I am upside-down on this project — incredibly so.

 

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Discussion Starter #55
Is there any risk of the positive terminal touching the box?
As it is, it doesn't touch now no matter how you jostle it around, but i am still going to glue a sheet of neoprene around the interior and run it over over the top edge.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Electrics are done. I sorted out my horn snafu and routed the fuel lines this morning. I'm SOOO close to starting it. I just need to mount the reg/rec (it will go in front of the bottom triple clamp, below the headlight), make new seat mounts, and do a few normal maintenance things like top off the oil level, etc.

I have no idea how far off the jetting is on this new carb, though, so that will be a whole 'nuther challenge. I haven't attempted to tune a four-stroke since I was in my teens, and I don't think I did an optimal job of it then.

 
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