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What size rear wheel are you running on your Z1??? Is it an 16" or 18" wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #42
its 18x3
 

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Discussion Starter #43
So I've been riding this bike a ton in the past few years, and whilst basic maintenance does solve a lot of issues, it doesn't solve the problem of 40 year old rubber rings and seals. The bike spent 2013 in a storage unit in Texas while I was deployed, and since pulling it out it has dripped progressively more oil from progressively more places as well as smoked more and more.

As such, I planned on doing a full service this winter, as well as installing one or two other upgrades I've picked up for it (box swingarm).

Fast forward to present. I'm on a 5 month "sabbatical" from the army in order to get my masters degree in Geological Engineering and have a fairly decent amount of time to do whatever I please. However, right now I value my time with my fiance and dog more than time spent in the garage (after spending september through december fixing stupid stupid things on both my Audi and VW aka both starters). Additionally, I have a rule that I don't conduct any major projects on a motorcycle unless I have a second one that runs. This keeps me from getting antsy about riding and rushing. Unfortunately, I don't have that second bike so we come to my current situation...

Missouri is basically a shithole if you don't live in KC or STL and the main motorcycle shops around are harley/cruiser shops. I did, however, find a shop in KC (3.5 hours away) called Blue Star Motorcycles. After talking to them on the phone and checking their facebook and webpage I brought the bike up to them to have the motor gone over and serviced. These guys definitely have an impressive shop and portfolio of bikes (including a Z1 already).

My biggest goal while they're in the top end is to upgrade everything possible with an eye towards reliability, so things like manual chain tensioner, better valve guides etc. If anyone has any input on other things to dig at, I'm all ears (been getting all up in redlinemotorcycles and Z1enterprises as well as KZrider for ideas).

Finally, pic of the swingarm

IMAG1597.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #44
also, sauce on how the bike currently looks

IMAG0989.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Tomorrow...
 

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I know you must have said somewhere else, but what fairing is that?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I know you must have said somewhere else, but what fairing is that?
It's an original rickman. I got it with the factory Z1 brackets. Funny enough, that same week I won an original rickman 1/2 fairing with Z1 brackets as well
 

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Discussion Starter #49
She's back...

I dropped the bike off with Blue Star Motorcycles in KC, MO... a Z1 isn't exactly the type of bike that I want to learn how to do an engine rebuild on, and having official shop recipts and documentation is a huge bonus. The bike took a while to finish, and I added on some maintenance to be done while it was there, but the end result is worth it.

Whats been done:

Complete top end rebuild
1st overbore
box swingarm
shorter throttle cables
new tires


feelsgoodman

Z1 swingarm.jpg
Z1b.jpg
Z1b2.jpg
Z1.jpg

Unfortunatley, I don't get to enjoy it right now because I'm driving up to mid-ohio this afternoon... what a problem to have lol.

so next up on the list for the bike:
upgraded oil cooler and lines
cartrige emulators
fancy upgraded wiring harness from webike
29mm smoothbores

any other suggestions?
 

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Z motors are pretty simple and easy to do top end work on. Beefy and as simple as shit.

I doubt 29.0 mm smoothbores would give you much bang for the bucks, without more radical cams+race valve springs and a pro dyno tune.

Dyna coils, leads, caps and ignition system would give it a good boost.

If you are serious, you should get the gearbox undercut, before the dogs and slots get all worn.

Get the discs professionally drilled with tiny holes, those stockers must weigh a ton.

The full Rickman fairing looks great, far better than on the Rickman IMHO.

The bike looks great.

Danger, is my business."
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Z motors are pretty simple and easy to do top end work on. Beefy and as simple as shit.

I doubt 29.0 mm smoothbores would give you much bang for the bucks, without more radical cams+race valve springs and a pro dyno tune.

Dyna coils, leads, caps and ignition system would give it a good boost.

If you are serious, you should get the gearbox undercut, before the dogs and slots get all worn.

Get the discs professionally drilled with tiny holes, those stockers must weigh a ton.

The full Rickman fairing looks great, far better than on the Rickman IMHO.

The bike looks great.

Danger, is my business."
The bike has a full dyna ignition already, but I agree with you on the discs, they're super heavy. I've heard the argument that the dual disc adds more weight than stopping power, and you're better off with just one disc... I'm not sure where I stand on that discussion though lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
I may have to get shocks that are a slight bit longer, given that this swingarm is about 1" longer than stock
 

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The bike has a full dyna ignition already, but I agree with you on the discs, they're super heavy. I've heard the argument that the dual disc adds more weight than stopping power, and you're better off with just one disc... I'm not sure where I stand on that discussion though lol.
I say unless you are on a racetrack or toting big momma around on vacation highway, the single disc would work better all round. I'd always trade a bit less braking power for less unsprung weight, any day.

What length shocks are on it now?

Danger, is my business."
 

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Why not just get the shock mounts on the swing arm moved forward?

As far as stopping power, what master cylinder are you using? The factory bore ratio is way off from what a modern bike would use, and with a smaller than stock MC piston the entire feel changes.

If it has the heavy solid brake discs with 6 bolt hubs you may be able to fit later Suzuki discs with just a little machining. I also found this listing, which seems like a better investment that having a million little holes drilled SUNSTAR : Neo Classic Front Disc Rotor [LV012WL]
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Why not just get the shock mounts on the swing arm moved forward?

As far as stopping power, what master cylinder are you using? The factory bore ratio is way off from what a modern bike would use, and with a smaller than stock MC piston the entire feel changes.

If it has the heavy solid brake discs with 6 bolt hubs you may be able to fit later Suzuki discs with just a little machining. I also found this listing, which seems like a better investment that having a million little holes drilled SUNSTAR : Neo Classic Front Disc Rotor [LV012WL]
I'm using this one:

Upgraded Front Master Cylinder | Randakk's Cycle Shakk® in 5/8ths and it's pretty great. The bike has really good stopping power as is and I like the period correct dual disc modification, but reducing the unsprung weight up front is my next logical step. thanks for the tip on the Suzuki discs though, I'll have to look into it
 

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"Why not just get the shock mounts on the swing arm moved forward?"

The biggest reason is it changes the leverage on the shocks. Real easy to over work the spring rate and damping. Ask old motocrossers who moved their shocks forward around 73-74.
 

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Yeah, but I think he already changed it and moved them backwards, which is why he is saying he may buy longer shocks. Moving them to the original angle again would make it closer to stock, but with the rear axle just an inch or so further away from the shock mount because of the longer swing arm.
 

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From what I can see your rear ride height is fine.

I don't give much credit to the "jack up the ass theory" of sportsbike handling. For race track use?, yeah fine. Stability is far more important on the road than flickability. Don't confuse fashion with function.

Danger is my business."
 

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Discussion Starter #59
so I'm not sure of the story behind the swingarm... i found it on oldkawaman.com and snapped it up because it was a good price. I'm not sure of the original maker of it. It looks like the shock mounts are in their original position (that they were when the swingarm was constructed). I'll put some miles on the bike and see if I notice any issues with the changed geometry (if ever so slight)
 

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Discussion Starter #60 (Edited)
Ok so here we are on my quest for "kaizen" (continuous improvement).

I'd like to upgrade the oil cooler as well as it's location.

Here's where it is currently, behind the side cover:
Z1 oil 2.jpg
The stock mounting bracket is taken over by the rickman fairing stops (at the top of the photo):
z1 oil.jpg

Anyone have any suggestions? I kind of like the look of the oil coolers mounted on the tail... behind the rider, but I don't really want to drill holes in my plastics.

mail.google.com.jpg

I'd like to look into upgrading the cooler to a derale or lockhart period piece as well as braided lines too.

any ideas are greatly appreciated.
 
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