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Discussion Starter #1
So my brother picked up a 360 last year, didn't run when he got it so we started working on it. We got it to run last summer but barely, then it sat thru the fall and most of this winter until we started diggin at it again. To get to the point, I went thru the carbs again and they're clean, new points set, timing set, new condenser coil, new petcock and fuel lines, new rubber carb/clyinder boots, and probably some other stuff I forgot about. So we threw a battery in it and started kicking. It finally ran but only with the choke on, as soon as you moved the choke it would cut out. It would idle and rev with the choke on but nothing else. Now if it was my bike, I'd start playing with the mixture screws on the carb and see what happens(they're set per clymer manual right now)but my brother is dead set on taking it to a mechanic to get it running right, which probably isn't a bad idea but I just wanted to see if its something that can be worked out or not. We did notice that the exhaust was leaking at the joint between the header pipe and the muffler, I have no idea if that really makes that big of a difference or not. Anyway, any suggestions are welcome and I appreciate it.

Ben
 

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Yes it does make a difference that the exhaust is leaking at the headers, that will kill your compression. If it is running better with the choke on, it is not getting enough fuel through the carbs. Idle is set too low, or jets are clogged, or need to rejet, or move needle clip position to lowest position, and or turn in airscrews clockwise to close off the air.
 

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No, it doesn't make enough difference that the exhaust is leaking. That will have absolutely no effect on compression. If it will only run with the choke on, then it is not getting enough fuel for the amount of air that it is getting. If it has stock air cleaners and exhaust, then stock jetting, needle position and mixture screw settings should be very close to what you need. "Clean" carbs are not always clean. Getting the pilot jets and especially passages is not easy. This is particularly true if you have not done many before. I suspect your problem is clogged pilot jets and passages. Remove the jets and run afine wire through them. I use a single copper strand from 18 ga electrical wire so I don't damage the brass jet. I also stick the nozzle from the spray carb cleaner into all the jet passages and blast them until it really comes out the other end. Basically the idle and the first 1/8 throttle is controlled by the pilot jet and the air screw. Since the bike has been mostly sitting and/or running badly for at least a couple of years I am reasonably sure that the carbs are not clean. Get it clean.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for your replies, I really appreciate it. I failed to mention in my first post that the bike has pod filters on it, and as for the exhaust leak, new mufflers (not stock) are waiting to be put on, probably this weekend.

Kenessex - I understand what you are saying about not getting enough fuel. This is the first bike I've worked on. When I cleaned the carbs about 2 weeks ago, I did it just like you said, copper wire and blasting with carb cleaner. I put the carbs all back together, except for the bowls and the diaphragm covers and then shot carb cleaner thru every hole I could find and made sure that it was coming out somewhere, which it was. There is a good possibility that they're plugged again from crap in the tank though. I have been considering getting a couple inline fuel filters and going through the carbs again.

Thanks again, and if theres anything else, dont hesitate to let me know.

Ben
 
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