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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
quick question, after manufacturing a new wiring harness taken from the wiring diagram in the Clymer manual page 335, I have run into a question regarding placement of the two wires, white with red and white with green lines. Manual says they go into regulator rectifier, I have upgraded to electronic ignition as well as a new stator. the Regulator rectifier is also upgraded compared to factory. Can anyone recommend how those two wires should get connected as the wiring for the new parts is a bit different, and they are all yellow. there was no direction as to which yellow was supposed to go where. new ignition is dynatek, stator i cannot remember its brand, but both are yellow only minus the one red that the rectifier has.

Of note:
1. lights are all bulb not LED,
2. wires are all new minus the existing connectors, which have been tested for continuity.
3. battery is new and reading 12.75 steady.
4. all grounds are checked and connected.
5. Fuse is correct. and intact.
6. Symptoms with wires not connected are a dead bike with a good battery. (no lights no nothing)
7. Does it matter which yellow wires i connect to each of the two white with stripes wires?
8. I have been grinding my way through the forums looking for an answer prior to posting with no luck, if anyone does know the answer, and there is allready a forum thread addressing it, link me to it and i will be forever in your debt~!

Thanks in advance!
 

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lol first thing I did when you said Clymer manual was to find a proper wiring diagram and that led me to this thread:
you might want to look at his wiring diagrams first for comparison.
 

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Hi. Welcome onboard.

Clymer isn't a reliable workshop manual.

Haynes are marginally better.

If possible try to get the genuine factory workshop manual. Sometimes they might state a particular process, whereas in reality, some shortcuts are possible, but they are the factory manuals with the factory specs.
 

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lol first thing I did when you said Clymer manual was to find a proper wiring diagram and that led me to this thread:
you might want to look at his wiring diagrams first for comparison.
Set your gaps with a Zig Zag, lol, was that in the Canadian version of the service manual?
 

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re: "placement of the two wires, white with red and white with green lines. Manual says they go into regulator rectifier,"

Your bike has a 3 phase alternator and normally an alternator has 3 wire outputs each producing the same about of AC output but out of phase relative to each other. So the bottom line is, any of the 3 wire leads headed towards your rectifier are producing virtually the same power. Those 3 wires connect through a series of diodes arranged in a specific manor in order to produce uncontrolled DC power output to 1 wire plus a ground. That rectified uncontrolled voltage then connects to a voltage regulator and the task of the regulator is to smooth and limit DC voltage output such that it is suitable for charging the battery. Sometimes the manufacturer will use AC uncontrolled voltage to power a headlight and taillight, because incandescent lamps are very tolerant of power variations and that's a cheap way to do it. From what I see in the diagrams, they are using rectified power for your lights.
 

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Set your gaps with a Zig Zag, lol, was that in the Canadian version of the service manual?
Zig-Zag white cigarette papers are 1 thou thin. Bush fix feeler gauge (y) also non metallic so unaffected buy magnets in close proximity plus flexible. Fold once for 2 thou, fold twice for 4 thou etc.
 

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Hi. Welcome onboard.

Clymer isn't a reliable workshop manual.

Haynes are marginally better.

If possible try to get the genuine factory workshop manual. Sometimes they might state a particular process, whereas in reality, some shortcuts are possible, but they are the factory manuals with the factory specs.
I add $75-$100 to the cost, when buying an old bike I don't know, for a good quality FSM. It saves me that in frustration.
 

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For clarity; If you had an oscilloscope and used it to test the outputs from your alternator and rectifier, this is what you should be seeing, the first trace is 3-phase non-rectified AC and the "resultant DC waveform" is the output from the rectifier circuit.

This rectified output has not yet been regulated and no capacitors have been added to smooth the DC output, so additional electronics (voltage regulator) are required to reduce any over voltage and to produce stable DC output with no voltage spikes, as would be required to charge a solid state battery.
Solid state devices (example: lithium battery and light emitting diodes) are not tolerate to over-voltage in the least and damage will result.

Also worth noting: If only one of the components in this circuit failed, a simple VOM meter test is not going to readily indicate that, your voltage output may appear to be correct to a VOM where an oscilloscope would immediately reveal a problem.
 

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Did you go with a Polaris RR? If so, I can look to see how i wired mine up
 

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If resistance and output is the same on all 3 coils, it makes absolutely no difference, just as long as all 3 outputs go to the rectifier and the rectifier is as shown in the schematic (3 wires out plus ground wire, plus rectified output wire headed for the regulator, 5 connections in total) That's why all 3 wires from a 3-phase alternator are typically yellow or same colour.

Don't mix the alternator output wires with anything else like the ignition timing sensor and you are good to go.

... the only reason the three coils produce a waveform output that is out of phase with the next one is because you are passing one single magnet across one coil at a time where each coil is arranged in a circular pattern around the rotating magnet. It would produce the same result if you spin the engine backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok! Very much appreciate all the input, yes, the rectifier/regulator is 3 phase, not original, and now after reviewing all the info i think i have a direction to head in. I will post an update soon to let you know which was the fix!
Thanks all!
 
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