Why would it be expensive? He's said the bike was bought for less than $400 - are the taxes not tied to the price/value of the bike? Just idly curious - we don't have a similar system in IL; they just started charging sales tax on old bikes last year, in fact.Did you have to pay back taxes On it since it had been 10 years since it was last registered? That would be expensive here.
In many states Ad Valorem taxes are due every year whether it is registered or not. If you buy a bike that hasn't been registered in 10 years you would have to pay all the back Ad Valorum taxes to get it current. They may pull out the book to determine value of the bike over those 10 years, even if you got a "free" bike. Just like parking tickets. If you bought the vehicle last week you still have to pay up all the previous tickets before they will tag the vehicle.Why would it be expensive? He's said the bike was bought for less than $400 - are the taxes not tied to the price/value of the bike? Just idly curious - we don't have a similar system in IL; they just started charging sales tax on old bikes last year, in fact.
The cable routing isn't an issue, and the cables themselves were new last year. I had the carb off the bike and was testing the return spring, and it seemed to have a LOT of spring action. More than i'd like. it seems to take the spring out itself and shorten it, i'd have to sync the carbs again, which isn't an issue. I am leaning more towards that route than a throttle helper.Re the throttle, just get a throttle helper, it's a little tab that uses your palm to hold the throttle open and takes the weight off your grip. However if it is your throttle that feels heavy it is probably cable routing and not the return spring in the carb.
I had a CV carb on my bike and now I have a mikuni, both are push/pull via two cables. I can take the return cable off of either of them and the carb will function just fine...because that spring is what closes the throttle. If I'm not mistaken, the return cable is there just in case the spring breaks.Ah, i think you're misunderstanding how the spring acts on the throttle in this particular setup. I have a CV carb (2), and the spring is only gives twisting retention. Shortening the spring would essentially shorten the overlapped circumference. I believe you're thinking that shortening the spring will shorten the height, which is unimportant in this case. The bike uses a push/pull setup, via two cables.
I did a pretty beefy build on my motor and dyno charts showed that the CV carbs were awesome until around 100hp after that they kind of fall off performance-wise. I didn't want the CV carb holding back all the other parts that I put into the engine, so I upgraded it to a Mikuni HSR 45 which is a proven performer on engine builds like mine.The spring is only an issue on rides lasting longer than half an hour or so. Its from the fatigue of holding the throttle turned, and the spring tension might be correct/stock. Even so, i'd like to reduce the retention of the spring. I'm not worried about the carb getting "stuck" open, because of the fact there are push/pull cables. I wasn't sure if this spring was replaceable or if anyone else had an issue like this, and resolved it without a throttle helper.....
Side note. Why did you change from a CV to a slide carb?