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The issue of shocks has been pretty much beaten to death. They are needed so get some. What has not been addressed is the "vibration". What are we talking about - a slight buzz, the bars kicking back and forth, wheel feels like it's pulsing up and down? Please describe it.

Most likely causes of a vibration at the front is the rear tire out of balance. Strangely enough, if the rear end moves, it usually feels like it's coming from the front end. The other likely cause is a wheel that's out of round. If we're talking about a weave - low frequency) then it's probably the swingarm or frame flexing. Did someone mention shocks?

Parallelism? If you mean the wheels are not pointing in the same direction and not on the same track, that could be from a bent frame, swingarm or forks. It could also be that under load the swingarm is twisting with that bad shock. Or maybe one of the wheel spacers is on the wrong side of the wheel, or maybe the wheels are not aligned. Fortunately it's easy to check if the wheels are in line. Get two long straight pieces of tube or angle iron and adjust the wheels to get them in line. If that can't be done because something is bent, then you will at least know what to fix.

After you fit new shocks, check both wheels for balance - do that at home and check wheel alignment, please tell us how it's working.
 

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Did you have to pay back taxes On it since it had been 10 years since it was last registered? That would be expensive here.
Why would it be expensive? He's said the bike was bought for less than $400 - are the taxes not tied to the price/value of the bike? Just idly curious - we don't have a similar system in IL; they just started charging sales tax on old bikes last year, in fact.
 

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Why would it be expensive? He's said the bike was bought for less than $400 - are the taxes not tied to the price/value of the bike? Just idly curious - we don't have a similar system in IL; they just started charging sales tax on old bikes last year, in fact.
In many states Ad Valorem taxes are due every year whether it is registered or not. If you buy a bike that hasn't been registered in 10 years you would have to pay all the back Ad Valorum taxes to get it current. They may pull out the book to determine value of the bike over those 10 years, even if you got a "free" bike. Just like parking tickets. If you bought the vehicle last week you still have to pay up all the previous tickets before they will tag the vehicle.
 

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It's not necessarily just the taxes that get expensive. Many states charge back registration, so the new owner would have to pay the registration....and late fees, for every year since the last year it was registered. You could end up owing $600-800 on a bike worth $200 if you aren't careful. In CA, the DMV records used to only go back 7 years. So if a bike had a registration sticker 5 years old, it was best to walk away. If it hadn't been registered in more than 7 years, you could register for a lost title and start fresh with the registration. They may have change things in the last 8 years, though.
 

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Damn, that's pricey. And btw, I misspoke above - IL charges a flat $25 for register anything over 10 years old (I registered a '66 Rolls-Royce for $25 once and the clerk said "Oh, that's just wrong!"), but the Cook County (Chicago and some surrounding suburbs) started charging a tax on bikes here last year.
 

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Hey guys. Back with news. its been a while, but i ordered the rear shocks and slapped those on. While doing that, i checked the swing arm bushings, the shock bushings, and my chain. All the bushings checked out, as they were new back in 2005 when this bike was put to rest before i found it. As for the vibration: i found that out. It wasn't the shocks, although they do help tremendously. I had put the new shocks on and took it for a test ride, but there was still that vibration of the handlebars moving up and down quickly. What i found was the steering stem ball bearings had gone bad. I had checked these multiple times, but for some reason i overlooked the 'notchiness' they had. So i replaced those and all is well, the vibration is completely eliminated.

Previously i had cut into and shorted the existing mufflers and removed 1 chamber. The reasoning was that at the time it was all i could do cause of funds. The mufflers that were on it both had holes in the back-most, bottom-most area so it worked out. I enjoy the sound they make now, but its not what i desire. So what i've come back to you guys for help with is choosing a single muffler to put on this POS and im going to make a 2-->1 exhaust system. I want a single muffler because of the sound that it should make after, which im thinking will be smoother (the old crossover pipe is eliminated atm) and im trying to get back low end torque that i lost when i cut the old mufflers.

Another thought, my hand (mostly my thumb) starts to get numb when riding. Although this could be from the vibration, i think its more related to a spring having too much tension. So what i'd like to do is shorten the spring on the carb body, the large spring that controls the retraction of the butterfly flap. Any thoughts? Should/Shouldn't do.....

Awesome thanks ahead of time guys.
 

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Re the throttle, just get a throttle helper, it's a little tab that uses your palm to hold the throttle open and takes the weight off your grip. However if it is your throttle that feels heavy it is probably cable routing and not the return spring in the carb.
 

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Re the throttle, just get a throttle helper, it's a little tab that uses your palm to hold the throttle open and takes the weight off your grip. However if it is your throttle that feels heavy it is probably cable routing and not the return spring in the carb.
The cable routing isn't an issue, and the cables themselves were new last year. I had the carb off the bike and was testing the return spring, and it seemed to have a LOT of spring action. More than i'd like. it seems to take the spring out itself and shorten it, i'd have to sync the carbs again, which isn't an issue. I am leaning more towards that route than a throttle helper.


As for the muffler, i was trying to find something with the same CFM flow, but i can't find how much the original mufflers were rated at. Im looking to bring it to a single muffler/can without changing the backpressure any also, i want to keep the same tuning if possible. Any ideas?
 

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shortening a spring will make it stiffer. Yes it will have less preload so it might be softer at start. Looks for replacement spring so you can reverse the change if it doesn't work out.
on a pull-only carb (not pull push cables) the spring is quite important safety factor. Getting your throttle stick at wide open or near is not a small problem. add a hipster kill switch next to the head light and have fun.
 

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Ah, i think you're misunderstanding how the spring acts on the throttle in this particular setup. I have a CV carb (2), and the spring is only gives twisting retention. Shortening the spring would essentially shorten the overlapped circumference. I believe you're thinking that shortening the spring will shorten the height, which is unimportant in this case. The bike uses a push/pull setup, via two cables.

Back to the exhaust/muffler. My price range is around $60-$80 for a used (but mint condition) single muffler. I plan on bringing the two exhaust pipes together considering i took out the cross-over 'muffler' earlier in the project. So now i'm stuck with too little of backpressure, and an inconsistent/uneven combustion. My goal is to add enough backpressure to bring back the lower rpm torque and collect the pipes to a single muffler. Any ideas or pictures (two cylinder motors) would greatly help.
 

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Ah, i think you're misunderstanding how the spring acts on the throttle in this particular setup. I have a CV carb (2), and the spring is only gives twisting retention. Shortening the spring would essentially shorten the overlapped circumference. I believe you're thinking that shortening the spring will shorten the height, which is unimportant in this case. The bike uses a push/pull setup, via two cables.
I had a CV carb on my bike and now I have a mikuni, both are push/pull via two cables. I can take the return cable off of either of them and the carb will function just fine...because that spring is what closes the throttle. If I'm not mistaken, the return cable is there just in case the spring breaks.
 

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The spring is only an issue on rides lasting longer than half an hour or so. Its from the fatigue of holding the throttle turned, and the spring tension might be correct/stock. Even so, i'd like to reduce the retention of the spring. I'm not worried about the carb getting "stuck" open, because of the fact there are push/pull cables. I wasn't sure if this spring was replaceable or if anyone else had an issue like this, and resolved it without a throttle helper.....


Side note. Why did you change from a CV to a slide carb?
 

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The spring is only an issue on rides lasting longer than half an hour or so. Its from the fatigue of holding the throttle turned, and the spring tension might be correct/stock. Even so, i'd like to reduce the retention of the spring. I'm not worried about the carb getting "stuck" open, because of the fact there are push/pull cables. I wasn't sure if this spring was replaceable or if anyone else had an issue like this, and resolved it without a throttle helper.....


Side note. Why did you change from a CV to a slide carb?
I did a pretty beefy build on my motor and dyno charts showed that the CV carbs were awesome until around 100hp after that they kind of fall off performance-wise. I didn't want the CV carb holding back all the other parts that I put into the engine, so I upgraded it to a Mikuni HSR 45 which is a proven performer on engine builds like mine.
 
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