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What i'm hoping to do is to MAKE it a boring bike. And by doing so, i will have "upped" my level. Right now i have to keep in the back of my head a few things when i ride, which in my opinion, is good to think about whether or not they're bad or brand new, and those things are: what if a tire blows out; what if my chain snaps; what if my brakes don't work; what if my clutch cable snaps and i can't shift fast enough to stop; IF i am going to lay the bike down, how am i going to do it so that i'm hurt in the least way possible.

Yes there are those who still call it Stoneonta, and you're talking to a stoner right now. They changed the name from "city of the hills" to "oneonta, life enjoyed" bad decision IMO.

I'm not planning on keeping this bike forever, or even for the rest of this season. But its the type of person i am must be, because i don't want to abandon it broken after its given me so much love. Its like an abused dog you find, you nurse it back to health, but when its dying you want its last moments to be enjoyable and refreshing. I figure once i get all the issues resolved, it'll become a boring bike because i'll need something with a larger stance (i'm 6' 170 lbs.) but honestly, i could care less about top end performance. you can all have fun going 180 on the freeways. i'll stick to 45 on my dirt roads.


As for the rear shock, i'm looking for something that sits about 1/2 lower than what it is currently at. My reasoning is my height, and the amount of front vs rear brake pressure applied when braking. I'm in control (practice) with locking up both tires, front tire, or rear tire so this isn't an issue and don't rant about how i should brake more evenly. I'm also looking for a progressive shock, not the brand, but the type of spring. I'm unfamiliar with all the vast types of shock absorbers, BUT i know what i want to get out of it; i'm on dirt roads, anything from golfball sized rocks to sand/mud. I want to be able to carry a load (not a person, just equipment i'd put on a luggage rack) of about 70lbs max. The bikes frame plate says it weighs about 350 lbs and i'm 150, so figure 500-550 dry/wet weight. How do i go about figuring how much dampering and weight load ratings i need on a specific shock, which will be put in a paired unison on the rear?
 

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Chrome clevis to clevis shocks are only $98 a pair delivered. If you can't afford $100 to fix your bike you shouldn't be riding it.

New and Unused Honda CB400T Hawk Chrome Shocks 1978 79 | eBay
Well smart guy, you're amazing. I use ebay to get all my parts, after vast research and # crunching. I haven't been on there recently for shocks on this "POS"

But i ordered those just now, so we'll findout about that vibration on a nice warm winter day above freezing temperatures.

What i am thinking though, is should i buy two sets ONLY because they are OEM style, and i won't have to worry about future short-comings? <-- on that note how long in-between servicing a shock absorber, considering one is still holding perfect seal after 30+ yrs
 

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Well smart guy, you're amazing. I use ebay to get all my parts, after vast research and # crunching. I haven't been on there recently for shocks on this "POS"

But i ordered those just now, so we'll findout about that vibration on a nice warm winter day above freezing temperatures.

What i am thinking though, is should i buy two sets ONLY because they are OEM style, and i won't have to worry about future short-comings? <-- on that note how long in-between servicing a shock absorber, considering one is still holding perfect seal after 30+ yrs
If you had done some research like a smart guy would you would have known those shocks are from tecbikepartsusa.com and could be had cheaper to you from their website. You'll probably not have the bike as long as it takes to wear the new shocks out if you take care of it, so no need in buying 2 sets.
 

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Touché, but i haven't bought them yet. just decided it needs to be done. you say cheaper huh? i'll check that site out



So upon checking it out, yes if i buy one pair then it is $4 cheaper. But if i go for 2 pairs (long-run decision) its $4 cheaper from ebay. $4 is nothing, im' not out to worry about that, as long as it fits properly.
 

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Touché, but i haven't bought them yet. just decided it needs to be done. you say cheaper huh? i'll check that site out
Shipping is about $1.50 cheaper than their Ebay listing. Someone bought a set yesterday, I assumed it was you. So now we know you are a liar also.:)
 

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When you changed the fork oil, how much did you put in? And what method did you use to gauge how much to put in?

Your vibration issue may just be over filled forks.
 

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Shipping is about $1.50 cheaper than their Ebay listing. Someone bought a set yesterday, I assumed it was you. So now we know you are a liar also.:)
well yesterday isn't today, i said today that i bought them. that makes me more of an idealist, saying that when i purchase them they'll still be available. I'm buying it now, oh just finished. So before i get those on i'll be doing the swingarm bushings/bearings and the new shock abs. bushings. I'm tempted to try it out before going into the steering bearing because i felt no notches the few times i've tested it (which means nothing except to stick an eye in there and check)


Yeah i'd rather an enduro or dual-sport bike, but i'm not going to go buy one because its what i want.
If the opportunity comes around and the price is right, hells yeah i'll do it, probably over and over again.
But i'm not lookin for power or performance, i'm looking for reliability, price of servicing, mpg, comfort-ability, and versatility. <-- The hawk has no power, performance or comfort-ability yet it has cheap parts, decently mpg, a good reliability rating, and so far i'ved used mine trail riding in the woods, cruising on the highway at 65+ mph, and adventuring down seasonal roads when i stumble upon them.
 

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I just saw a set sold on 1/20/14, I lost track of todays date which is why I assumed you just bought them as you said. Don't worry about them running out. TEC bike parts makes shocks for a number of bikes. Most of their shocks are made in China even though they lie on their website and say they make all their products in the UK. They only list 2 available on the Ebay listing to insight you into buying them before they run out of the only 2 available.
 

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when i did the fork seals, i cleaned the old oil out and put new stuff in, i'll find out exactly what i put in, 'im not sure of the weight right now, but i know that i put in the recommended amount, i think 120cc, in each tube. i made sure it was even by using two identical cups and measured it even. i don't have a more precise way to measure, but it was within 5% of what the manual said.

i think we've narrowed it down to some sort of offset in the parallelism of the wheels. the experts are saying fix the suspension before diagnosis, but i say the rear suspension is working in such a way that it couldn't create a vibration. we'll find outas soon as the parts come in. i ordered the shocks from the link 01marc threw up. i have other projects in the garage for now, gotta sell some things to buy more. you know the cyclical patterns :D
 

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when i did the fork seals, i cleaned the old oil out and put new stuff in, i'll find out exactly what i put in, 'im not sure of the weight right now, but i know that i put in the recommended amount, i think 120cc, in each tube. i made sure it was even by using two identical cups and measured it even. i don't have a more precise way to measure, but it was within 5% of what the manual said.

i think we've narrowed it down to some sort of offset in the parallelism of the wheels. the experts are saying fix the suspension before diagnosis, but i say the rear suspension is working in such a way that it couldn't create a vibration. we'll find outas soon as the parts come in. i ordered the shocks from the link 01marc threw up. i have other projects in the garage for now, gotta sell some things to buy more. you know the cyclical patterns :D

I am afraid I am no longer able to take you seriously. You clearly have no idea about how a suspension system works. I also have to remember that you initially killed this poor bike by running it out of oil even though the oil IDIOT light was telling you something was wrong and you knew it was burning oil. You are content to buy two pairs of shocks even though you only need one pair and initially argued that you didn't need those because it worked ok as it is. You clearly have reading comprehension issues since I spelled it out for you how to check your swing arm bushings and your steering stem bearings. Instead of doing any simple diagnostics (remember I told you how to do it), you decided to just throw parts at it. Here is a big fat hint for you about checking the steering bearings: adjust them to specs first. They may be so loose right now that they do not exhibit any notchiness. I also told you to check the bearings with the wheel off the ground. Is that how you "checked" it when you said you looked at it a couple of times? If the wheel is on the ground, the weight of the bike and the friction of the tire will mask the problems in the steering head.

All in all, I think you may be the perfect owner of a CB400 Hawk. After you tire of that you can get a CB900C for a big bike. You can cafe that POS, too.
 

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To be fair ken, he needed those parts regardless as the bike was unsafe without working shocks.

but i say the rear suspension is working in such a way that it couldn't create a vibration. we'll find outas soon as the parts come in.
saying stuff iff like this doesn't make you sound smart. You say the rear end is solid, and we keep telling you that the physical parts are known to flex and bend and twist. So, again I am going to ask you to explain this statement more than you just telling me the rear end is solid. I really just don't think you know enough about motorcycle suspension to make statements.

I also think, while the shocks will help, there are other issues going on with the bike and it won't completely cure it. Given the nature of the bike when you found it, it needed shocks, swingarm bushings, neck bearings, wheel bearings (a repack at least).

By the way, is this a bike with comstar wheels on it? Have you checked them for corrosion? Sometimes the wheels become loose at the rivets because of dissimilar metal corrosion. Better check it.
 

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To be fair ken, he needed those parts regardless as the bike was unsafe without working shocks.



saying stuff iff like this doesn't make you sound smart. You say the rear end is solid, and we keep telling you that the physical parts are known to flex and bend and twist. So, again I am going to ask you to explain this statement more than you just telling me the rear end is solid. I really just don't think you know enough about motorcycle suspension to make statements.

I also think, while the shocks will help, there are other issues going on with the bike and it won't completely cure it. Given the nature of the bike when you found it, it needed shocks, swingarm bushings, neck bearings, wheel bearings (a repack at least).

By the way, is this a bike with comstar wheels on it? Have you checked them for corrosion? Sometimes the wheels become loose at the rivets because of dissimilar metal corrosion. Better check it.
The 78 T1 came with spoke wheels/drum brake, the T2 with mags/disc brake
 

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I went back and looked, he has comstars. Given the nature of corrosion that the bike had suffered it wouldn't be unreasonable to think that the rivets in the wheel were working themselves loose. If you look at his "before" picture you can see the alumnium rim of the comstar had some corrosion on it outside the spokes.

This is the problem with ressurecting a bike you found sitting outside for a thousand years - it needs everything. Also, why was it parked? people don't just park good working things for no reason - usually something breaks on the bike and they shove it in a corner.

By the way - did you know that the diamond frame honda used on the hawk and cx500 is a stressed member frame? It's clearer on the cx because there is no lower frame rail, but the engine is meant to contribute to the frame's rigidity. So something as stupid as a loose engine bolt can also add to the flexing of the frame and a vibration.
 

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Can I ask the stupid question? Do you own a service manual for this bike?
i already asked the stupid question, so no worries there. I don't personally have the manual (you're gonna hate me) but i use a copy that is at my local mechanics shop, they don't mind lending it out.

As for the front wheel bearing. Yes, i checked it with the front tire off the ground, i'm not an idiot :D although you all think so. also, of course i tightened the steering bearing, you're not the first to tell me.
The PO had taken good care of the motor, i have a history of the services done. He has had the head gasket, new timing chain, new balancer chain, valve tappet clearance adjusted, steering bearing, rear bearings, swingarm bushings, carbs cleaned, chain serviced, new sprockets. It was set for rest around 2001-02 because it was sold to some guy (the one i bought it from) and he never titled it. He was going to, but was put on disability shortly after purchasing the bike from the "PO" (the guy i got it from i wouldn't consider the PO only because he never "owned" the bike, only held onto it, and because he never did anything maintenance-wise to it) and at the time it needed the carbs cleaned, which he didn't know how, and didn't have a reason to do himself. After about 10 years of sitting behind his house with a tarp over it, and it leaned against a dirt pile, i found it. Put new front wheel bearings in, did the front fork rebuild, put a new chain and sprocket set, new brake pads and tires. and one new rim.

The bike has comstar wheels, and no the rivets aren't falling out, and there's no galvanic reaction occurring. When i got the bike, the front rim was so bad, i opted for a new rim. if the rim were bent, people would have noticed by now, tired was mounted twice, balanced 3 times, and inspected before a tire was ever mentioned.

The reason i say the rear is "tight" is because those bushings everyone is telling me to replace, aren't bad. they're tight/solid. there is no sway side to side in the swingarm, only vertical movement. Why i say things like "i don't see how it could affect the vibration" would be because in my situation, the front steering bearing are good, the swingarm bushings are good, the front forks, and both tires/rims are good, (yes, i had the motor off a few times, i know the motor is part of the structure of the frame) and the only thing that needs replacing is the rear shocks. The FEW reasons i haven't replaced the rear shocks yet not cause the money (which i'm not throwing money at this left and right, total including the new shocks cost $600 to fix and put on the road with reg/ins.) but because i wanted to put aftermarket shocks that were more suited to my riding needs. mainly i should get a different bike, i understand. but im not going to, so using this for what its not intended to (dirt riding) is probably WHY i find it so much fun. the reason i was going to buy two pairs, while bitching about one pair, was for exactly what 01marc said, its a gimmick to get suckers to buy faster, or more quantity. well it worked, almost.


I'm not trying to act smart, or impress anyone. Who gives a turd about what you guys think about me, i'm here for solutions. If down the road you find that i'm not as retarded as you all might think, then maybe the help could be mutual.
 

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Just put the shocks on and tell us how it feels. Sheesh.
 

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If the bike sat outside under a tarp for 10 years you should assume all those "new" bearings and bushings are fucked.

If you don't take the swingarm and triple trees off to inspect the bearings you are more than likely chasing your tail looking at other probabilities.

And again - if the shocks are stuffed....they're stuffed.
 
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