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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked this up for 500 yesterday with a legitimate title but no key
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle

After bypassing all the safety switches (clutch, neutral, etc.) She turns over, but no spark. Have voltage at the coils, pickup coil reads 170 ohms (withing spec) ignition coils read 3ohms (good) I have read that a 100ohm resistor is needed with an aftermarket ignition switch, or the ecu will not fire the coils. This may be for a later model (not sure the 93 has an ecu) what should I test next? Cdi?
 

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immobilizer maybe
... or maybe it's too old to have one, no idea when that stuff started on GSXR
Likely a stolen bike if the ignition/steering lock was removed with a hammer, does it pass a title history search, in some places it would need to. lol holy are you ever addicted to buying old bikes
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I have a clean title and the vin# on the neck matches. Steering lock is intact. I ended up getting spark by the end of the day. I don't know how... maybe one of the several connectors that I took apart to probe wasn't fully seated. She's gonna be a runner! And yes. I really enjoy this hobby, and it's been profitable. I wasn't feeling well Sunday and almost let it slip by but my wife made me get out of bed and drove us 2 hours to go pick it up. Something about "honey you don't wanna miss out on an opportunity, you gotta keep flipping, property taxes are due"
 

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1993 did not have an ECU, or an immobilizer system. If coils check out with 3ohms, and 12v + you aren't getting the ground trigger. Check all wiring from the pickup, all the way to the coils.
It is not uncommon for the igniter boxes on these bikes to be bad. Usually due to someone doing something stupid with the wiring, but they will fail just because it is their time. They aren't cheap if you can find one on Fleabay. Also, there is NO way to test them, unless you find a shop with an OLD mechanic that has a test box for them. Don't run out and buy one until you have tested EVERYthing else.
 

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Another thing to check is the plug boots. They could be very corroded. Not likely that all 4 have completely failed, but I suppose it could happen if it sat outside forever... Any idea when it last ran?
 

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Why don't you just prep it for racing and sell it as a race bike, that would greatly simplify the build and remove the cost of electrics.
... that means it would need to pass a tech inspection.
 

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Is that clean engine oil?
Head gasket is generally the only seam subjected to combustion pressures that are sufficient enough to force oil out of the engine. Everything above or below the combustion chamber is normally operating closer to atmospheric pressure and oil passages delivering oil to the valve train is operating at lower oil pressure, but the oil has to travel through the same head gasket. If it was a header gasket leak it would be black with carbon and if the engine was water-cooled then leaking combustion pressure would likely end up in the engine coolant. If the oil leak is spewing clean oil, that could still be the head gasket or an o-ring somewhere, but if it is an oil delivery line leak you should also see signs of reduced oil pressure. Too bad they don't put decent oil pressure gauges on motorcycles, that would make it more obvious. Sadly either way, you are looking at a top end rebuild because an oil leak doesn't heal itself it only gets worse and your cheap bike just became very expensive.
 

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I skipped the second coming of the water buffalo but had quite a bit of time with the oil boilers. It looks like your photo does not show the whole story. The oil is above that area also. More troubling is that water on with the oil in the corner of the cylinder head and head. The cylinder head looks mighty wet above the head gasket. The valve covers on these are prone to leakage with sloppy mechanics being the issue. The oil boilers had pressured oil running through the valve cover so if they kept this you could see quite a bit of oil streaming out of the engine up there. One problematic zone for many people on these was cross threading and stripping the valve cover cap nuts or loosing the seals out of the cover when putting it back in place.

This is an interesting project. If it were mine and I ran into engine issues I would see if i could fit an 1100w in that frame I think they were all similar enough to get that done. I think you could even fit the 1100 oil cooled engine in that even say out of a bandit.

Everyone I knew blew the 600s up.

 

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If I'm looking for an oil leak the first thing I do is to clean the engine.

...that usually requires a toothbrush and some kind of engine de-grease stuff and then you dry it off before test riding.
 
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