[HipsterSquid]

Picked this up for 500 yesterday with a legitimate title but no key

After bypassing all the safety switches (clutch, neutral, etc.) She turns over, but no spark. Have voltage at the coils, pickup coil reads 170 ohms (withing spec) ignition coils read 3ohms (good) I have read that a 100ohm resistor is needed with an aftermarket ignition switch, or the ecu will not fire the coils. This may be for a later model (not sure the 93 has an ecu) what should I test next? Cdi?

 

[HipsterSquid]

I have a clean title and the vin# on the neck matches. Steering lock is intact. I ended up getting spark by the end of the day. I don't know how... maybe one of the several connectors that I took apart to probe wasn't fully seated. She's gonna be a runner! And yes. I really enjoy this hobby, and it's been profitable. I wasn't feeling well Sunday and almost let it slip by but my wife made me get out of bed and drove us 2 hours to go pick it up. Something about "honey you don't wanna miss out on an opportunity, you gotta keep flipping, property taxes are due"

 

[HipsterSquid]

You guys ever solder pinholes on a gas tank? It woks!

 

[HipsterSquid]

Did you use standard solder or silver solder?

I used "silver bearing" and a lot of flux paste with a 140 watt gun.

 

[HipsterSquid]

Hey does anyone know which gasket this is:

 

[HipsterSquid]

If that's the carb intake in the upper left then I'd say that's a head gasket

That's the exhaust manifold

 

[HipsterSquid]

I think it have good news! The oil seems to have been leaking from this bolt:

And pooling up on the fin where the head gasket goes (kind of a plateu at the lowest point when its on the side stand) this bolt holds a bracket for the former body work here is a picture of the opposite side with the bracket still in place:

So I removed the bracket and snugged up the bolt. I wiped the area off and ran the bike for a few minutes and no additional oil was collected in that period of time. I will take your advice and give her a proper bath then test again.

In other news the replacement shift lever that I received is not left hand threaded as it should be so I am still without a shifter. Has anyone successfully removed the circlip type thing that holds the ball joints on at the shift linkage? Know any tricks for doing so? If I could swap the ball joints I'd be in business

 

[HipsterSquid]

... I looked at the part manual, the only left thread should be on one adjuster and the one end of the connecting rod. The adjustment is only there so you can position the lever at a comfortable angle, it's not a slack adjuster where small adjustment will be critical. If you can't get original parts that should not be a huge problem, you can buy small plain spherical bearings easy and make something if necessary.

You are correct. One end of the linkage is regular thread and the other end that attaches to the shift lever (rearset) is reverse thread. I can probably just cut the threads off the trouble side of the linkage and weld a bolt on that will allow the new lever to screw on

 

[HipsterSquid]

Hey can you guys give me some advice for removing the tamper proof bolts that hold the ignition to the top yoke?

the factory service manual says to spin them loose with a center punch but I feel like I'm just making a mess and its not turning

here's a pic of the one I haven't fucked up yet (for reference)

 

[HipsterSquid]

I got them out by slotting them with a cutoff wheel and turning them out with a flathead screwdriver. Guys I'm having a problem. Cylinder 4 is not firing. I have spark, fuel, compression, and the carbs are spotless. (Slides work flawlessly too) what is left? Could a grossly misadjusted valve be the cause?

 

[HipsterSquid]

I have replaced the plug, and the cap. I also swapped wires on 1 and 4, the problem did not follow the wire. I am stumped

 

[HipsterSquid]

What psi did you get on the compression test?

155

 

[HipsterSquid]

Can't be right, it's a 4 cylinder motorcycle, should be 4 numbers hopefully all close together but not likely to be all the same. Compression test is a relative test and in a perfect world you (or the manufacturer) would have recorded the original compression numbers from when the engine was new to compare with.

The compression on the dead cylinder is 155

 

[HipsterSquid]

Well I got the new ignition switch installed:

The label is upside down:

I attempted to pop of the shroud so I could rotate it 180degrees, but it would not go easily and I didn't want to break the plastic so who cares. ...

While I was waiting for the switch to come in I was using this:

It's wireless:

It has two channels (two spst relays):

You can program them for latching, toggle, or momentary. I wired it so "A" controlled ignition and "B" for parking lights. Another setup i tried was channel "B" set for momentary to control starter switch. It was pretty cool setup for wireless start. I don't know what I'll do with it now. I could wire it parallel and use it in conjuction with the keyed switch but I will probably forget and leave the ignition on one day... maybe I'll use it for some LED'S on a future flip..

Anyways, none of this matters when the bike is only running on 3/4's cylinders. I'm going to take a nap

 

[HipsterSquid]

Alright! She's running on all four cylinders now! I think my gas was contaminated with water. Maybe I didn't get it all out after soldering the pinholes in the tank. Anyways I drained the tank and the bowls and the problem is solved. The next thing I need to adress is a rev hang at idle. With the idle set to 1k I blip the throttle and she hangs up at 3k and takes a very long time to return to idle. I'm gonna try turning the pilot screws out. Unfortunately this requires pulling the rack because it's next to impossible to get to the screws for 2 and 3 when the carbs are mounted.

 

[HipsterSquid]

Yes. They are cv carbs. All of my bikes will probably be cv carbs because I buy bikes that people are practically giving away due to "carb problems"

I inspected the diaphragms when I replaced the needles last Friday. They are in good condition. No tears or pinholes. Soft and pliable. The slides are working correctly after reassembly, Verified by blowing in the port and observing them rise and fall consistently.

I have the pilot screws 5 turns out and the rev hang is improved but not completely eliminated. I would no longer call it a "hang" more like a "mildly sluggish return to idle" Its time to move up to a larger pilot jet. I supposed the aftermarket can that was crudely installed has changed the jetting requirements. She is only a brake job and turn signals away from being rideable now. Finally sat on her and rocked through all six gears in the driveway tonight. I'm getting excited now. So glad someone else gave up on this bike!

 

[HipsterSquid]

Yes. Everything is installed correctly, Including the tiny o-ring beneath the vacuum sync ports

 

[HipsterSquid]

How did the syncing go? This will change how the bike runs drastically for better or worse.

I synced them last week with the Morgan Carb-tune Pro. Since changes were made I can sync them again tonight (to be thorough) but I don't expect a carb-sync to fix a problem that is most likely caused by a lean condition on the pilot jet.

 

[HipsterSquid]

See the extra plunger pump assembly on a typical #2 carb in a bank of CV carburetors:
View attachment 106993
My understanding is they put that diaphragm pump on there so the engine returns to idle better, it does it by enriching the fuel mix just slightly on deceleration.
... note the only carb that is different is #2, the rest are virtual parts interchangeable.

Point of this post is, look for something that looks like a fuel pump, study the linkage to determine if that pump is actuated on acceleration or deceleration at the linkage and then look for problems relating to that fuel circuit.

These are the mikuni bst36ss and there is no such provision. At idle the fuel is metered by the pilot jet and the pilot air jet. The mixture is partially discharged into the main bore out of the bypass ports and the remainder is metered by the pilot screw and sprayed into the main bore through the pilot output.

I flushed and bled the brakes then took the bike around the block today and I am satisfied with the motor, the transmission and the clutch. I think i did very well for the initial investment of $500

Tomorrow I will pull the wheels and inspect the bearings and drivetrain and replace a dry-rotted valve stem on the front tire. She's at least safe an reliable enough to ride to the bmv for a vin inspection during lunch. I can hardly wait to get her on the freeway and really knock the dust off!