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If you're going to scrap an engine in a decent rolling chassis, I think we are in the era where it is a lot easier and more practical to convert to electric.
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I think it have good news! The oil seems to have been leaking from this bolt:
Grille Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Vehicle

And pooling up on the fin where the head gasket goes (kind of a plateu at the lowest point when its on the side stand) this bolt holds a bracket for the former body work here is a picture of the opposite side with the bracket still in place:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive lighting Fender

So I removed the bracket and snugged up the bolt. I wiped the area off and ran the bike for a few minutes and no additional oil was collected in that period of time. I will take your advice and give her a proper bath then test again.

In other news the replacement shift lever that I received is not left hand threaded as it should be so I am still without a shifter. Has anyone successfully removed the circlip type thing that holds the ball joints on at the shift linkage? Know any tricks for doing so? If I could swap the ball joints I'd be in business
 

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Bonus (y) is that where an oil pressure gauge would go?
or an oil cooler?
Shift lever is usually on a spline shaft with a regular pinch bolt. The ball joints themselves are usually Heim joints where the ball can not be removed but they can be disassembled at the adjuster.
 

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... I looked at the part manual, the only left thread should be on one adjuster and the one end of the connecting rod. The adjustment is only there so you can position the lever at a comfortable angle, it's not a slack adjuster where small adjustment will be critical. If you can't get original parts that should not be a huge problem, you can buy small plain spherical bearings easy and make something if necessary.
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
... I looked at the part manual, the only left thread should be on one adjuster and the one end of the connecting rod. The adjustment is only there so you can position the lever at a comfortable angle, it's not a slack adjuster where small adjustment will be critical. If you can't get original parts that should not be a huge problem, you can buy small plain spherical bearings easy and make something if necessary.
You are correct. One end of the linkage is regular thread and the other end that attaches to the shift lever (rearset) is reverse thread. I can probably just cut the threads off the trouble side of the linkage and weld a bolt on that will allow the new lever to screw on
 

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1982 kz440a
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175 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hey can you guys give me some advice for removing the tamper proof bolts that hold the ignition to the top yoke?
Hand Automotive tire Finger Nail Gas
the factory service manual says to spin them loose with a center punch but I feel like I'm just making a mess and its not turning
Water Automotive tire Grey Rim Gas
here's a pic of the one I haven't fucked up yet (for reference)
Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Gas Auto part
 

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I'd use a dremmel to cut a slot in them and then use a flathead screwdriver to turn them out.
 

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Shooting some penetrating oil might help loosen things up a bit. I've always relied on my set of craftsman screw extractors To crack the most stubborn screws and bolts loose, and sometime just the drilling end did the trick
 

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Fit it with a magnetic kill button and lanyard for about 40 bucks plus shipping.
That will confound the stupid motorcycle thieves for a little while and they work good.
 

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As CaTaC1sm pointed out, cut a slot.
I've used a hacksaw before now.
Isn't that motor the same as the RF600/900?
It isn't an oilboiler with the header tank at left rear of frame.
Suzuki use a very coarse spline on gearchange of many models, can't remember if that one has it though (I had a few years off from working in dealerships)
 

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1982 kz440a
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I got them out by slotting them with a cutoff wheel and turning them out with a flathead screwdriver. Guys I'm having a problem. Cylinder 4 is not firing. I have spark, fuel, compression, and the carbs are spotless. (Slides work flawlessly too) what is left? Could a grossly misadjusted valve be the cause?
 

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I got them out by slotting them with a cutoff wheel and turning them out with a flathead screwdriver. Guys I'm having a problem. Cylinder 4 is not firing. I have spark, fuel, compression, and the carbs are spotless. (Slides work flawlessly too) what is left? Could a grossly misadjusted valve be the cause?
Try a different spark plug. You can have a plug that sparks in open air fail under compression. the lead and cap could also be suspect. If the second lead on that coil is long enough swap it to see if you move the problem. With poor valve adjustment you would not have compression. One more thing to look at is that if your carb is fueling and you ran it without that cylinder firing you should get a wet plug when you pull it to verify the fuel charge is there.
 
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