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Discussion Starter #1
Been thinking hard about weight reduction on one bike project. In looking at the wheels I got to wondering about what really is the lightest wheel to fit my needs. I won't be dropping $$$ on carbon fiber wheels or PM Forged hoops either......unfortunately. [V]
So, it comes down to OEM wheels for the little honda.
Is a comstar or laced setup going to lighter if the important details are the same: diameter & rim width....

Anyone?
 

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the lightest wheels are....modern sport bike wheels. Seriously, even the ex250/500 style wheels are lighter than some of this old crap.

I think a comstar front wheel is lighter than the spoke front wheels, but not by much. And considering some comstars need to be run with a tube in them you lose a little there too. If you have an alloy rim on your spoke wheel the spoke may just do the trick.

I am kinda confused what year and model honda we are talking about.

There are other ways you can save wheel weight. Switching from drum to disc is a biggie, but also running a smaller drum helps too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's yet another project bike, it's the 500T I've been picking away at.
Since I'm 'building' it I can within reason run whatever rims I want.
I kinda like the look of glass back comstars (I know..I know...) but want to eek out what I can from this little twin. I'm shooting for a ridable rolling weight of 300#. I'll be happy with 325-330#.....

Since I own the fabrication shop I can make a lot of parts in aluminum that are as of now cast iron, steel or whatever heavy shit is slathered all over this pig. I also have a very nice supply of 7000 series alloy nuts, bolts, screws etc. that can be used where ultimate strength isn't an issue.
 

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So, there's lots of weight to be lost in the stock seatpan. I kept mine, but only because I'm cheap.

If you're gonna swap the tank, I'd go for an alloy tank, just for safety - it will be lighter than stock by lots.

The stock exhaust is double-walled, and heavy, so an aftermarket or homebrew 2-into-1 ought to shed weight, match it up with an alloy silencer.

Drilling the disks will lose some weight.

Stock turn signals and taillight are large and heavy. Aftermarket LEDs (don't forget a ballast resistor or the flasher might not work) will shed weight.

Alloy spoked rims drop a whole bunch of weight over stock steel/chrome, that's what I did to mine, and no fab at all.

Drop the stock tach/speedo for a Trailtech Vapor for weight reduction, and it also gets rid of the hard-to-find tach cable. You can ditch the stock speedo gearbox, too.

Fiberglass fenders will stop a bunch of weight, but don't get rid of the stock front fork brace that's part of the front fender.

Ditch the centerstand. It's heavy and annoying on the 500T.

Drop the stock steel pegs and brake lever and swap in aluminum rearsets from the FZR600.

Ditch the sidecovers and stock airbox, use K&N's for more weight loss.

Get rid of the stock steel battery box and fab up a simple alloy battery box.

Dunno what kind of bike you're building, but good clipons will save you weight over the stock bars.

You can find alloy headlight mounts that will save more weight compared to the stockers.

Use a 520 chain and sprocket set for more weight loss instead of the stock 530.

All of that with no major fab or modifications! There's various bits and mounts you can cut off as well for a few more pounds.
 

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If you want some data from the alloy spoked side, I switched from steel DID rims (1.6 front, 1.85 rear) to slightly wider shouldered aluminum rims (1.85 front 2.15) rear. These sizes match up better with what most of the common metric tire sizes run.

Used thicker 8 gauge (instead of 10 ga) stainless spokes from Buchanans and had the hubs and rims powdercoated, so I traded some weight for durability on the street. These are probably a pound heavier than you could get running bare non-shouldered rims and spokes in stock sizes.

The front weighs 16 lbs with tire and no brake rotor (lost about 3 lbs from stock)


The rear weighs 26 lbs with tire and no sprocket (lost about 2 lbs.)


My wallet saw the biggest weight loss from this project, but I have something I wanted and learned to spoke and true wheels in the process.
 

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If you want some data from the alloy spoked side, I switched from steel DID rims (1.6 front, 1.85 rear) to slightly wider shouldered aluminum rims (1.85 front 2.15) rear. These sizes match up better with what most of the common metric tire sizes run.

Used thicker 8 gauge (instead of 10 ga) stainless spokes from Buchanans and had the hubs and rims powdercoated, so I traded some weight for durability on the street. These are probably a pound heavier than you could get running bare non-shouldered rims and spokes in stock sizes.

The front weighs 16 lbs with tire and no brake rotor (lost about 3 lbs from stock)


The rear weighs 26 lbs with tire and no sprocket (lost about 2 lbs.)


My wallet saw the biggest weight loss from this project, but I have something I wanted and learned to spoke and true wheels in the process.
 

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I have a really rare pair of ribbed aluminum fenders

they'd look great on a cafe with aluminum tank and rump fairing

the front wheel on my silver triumph weighs 22 pounds, tire, disc brake rotor, and all

ain't much of a brake though
 

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I have a really rare pair of ribbed aluminum fenders

they'd look great on a cafe with aluminum tank and rump fairing

the front wheel on my silver triumph weighs 22 pounds, tire, disc brake rotor, and all

ain't much of a brake though
 

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It would be interesting to see how much weight could be taken off a project bike from a stocker. This is what I have plan for my next build project. Every possible stock part that can be replaced with something lighter will be done. Just removing parts like fenders and such or adding lighter wheels will be just a start of the weight reduction. All this will have to be done with reasonable cost parts - love the cb400 wheels...
 

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It would be interesting to see how much weight could be taken off a project bike from a stocker. This is what I have plan for my next build project. Every possible stock part that can be replaced with something lighter will be done. Just removing parts like fenders and such or adding lighter wheels will be just a start of the weight reduction. All this will have to be done with reasonable cost parts - love the cb400 wheels...
 

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I'm stuck at about 340 lbs on that 400F. It's ridden daily so I still have the stock wiring harness, all the lights and horn, starter, airbox and battery. I might lose a couple of pounds with vortex rearsets if I ever get them mounted. Those shocks seem to be made of lead and I have some alloy Konis ready to go. 300 lbs might be do-able if I get serious about it.

 

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I'm stuck at about 340 lbs on that 400F. It's ridden daily so I still have the stock wiring harness, all the lights and horn, starter, airbox and battery. I might lose a couple of pounds with vortex rearsets if I ever get them mounted. Those shocks seem to be made of lead and I have some alloy Konis ready to go. 300 lbs might be do-able if I get serious about it.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
borzwazie: Hehe....that's almost word for word what i told someone else and more or less what my aim has been with this. Great minds....or just equally tweeked?

tsflstb: That's beautiful! Also pretty much what I'm settling on I think. What do you have in those rims if you don't mind my asking? Good sourse for the Excels?

HackAsaw: Yeah I remember seeing your fenders, very cool indeed. Fortunately for my wallet I have a really nice 'glass front fender and will be running with just a splash shield out back. However....there's a future project that might want them. I'll let you know but don't wait if someone else wants'em.

bmartin: Again, pretty much what I've been thinking about though I'm trying to err on the side of sanity......
 

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Discussion Starter #14
borzwazie: Hehe....that's almost word for word what i told someone else and more or less what my aim has been with this. Great minds....or just equally tweeked?

tsflstb: That's beautiful! Also pretty much what I'm settling on I think. What do you have in those rims if you don't mind my asking? Good sourse for the Excels?

HackAsaw: Yeah I remember seeing your fenders, very cool indeed. Fortunately for my wallet I have a really nice 'glass front fender and will be running with just a splash shield out back. However....there's a future project that might want them. I'll let you know but don't wait if someone else wants'em.

bmartin: Again, pretty much what I've been thinking about though I'm trying to err on the side of sanity......
 

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Swagger -
Keeping the cost within budget is the real trick, when it comes time to sale - no one will pay you for the work and/or parts that are on the bike. If you can source your parts cheap or make them, then the only thing that gets lost is your time. Hot rods never return the amount of time & money that's into them.

For my current cb750 build - I'm thinking of using a newer sport bike exhaust system from a mc savage yard, they are very very light (much more than one of my kerker pipes) and I can source them for cheap. How this will work is up to the tuning gods...

Love the little 400F - she's a cutie...
 

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Swagger -
Keeping the cost within budget is the real trick, when it comes time to sale - no one will pay you for the work and/or parts that are on the bike. If you can source your parts cheap or make them, then the only thing that gets lost is your time. Hot rods never return the amount of time & money that's into them.

For my current cb750 build - I'm thinking of using a newer sport bike exhaust system from a mc savage yard, they are very very light (much more than one of my kerker pipes) and I can source them for cheap. How this will work is up to the tuning gods...

Love the little 400F - she's a cutie...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh i never had any delusions of making money on these things. I'm doing it for fun......
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oh i never had any delusions of making money on these things. I'm doing it for fun......
 

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for all of our edification, please quantify the play(s). a base line (current weight) number and all the moves along the way with an end total change/result. i did it (the weight thing) to my racer a few years back and was surprised as to how easy it was at first and how hard it became to go past a certain point. it's like lap times on a track...the first few seconds come easy and fast and the last few tenths can take an eternity.
-parks
 

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for all of our edification, please quantify the play(s). a base line (current weight) number and all the moves along the way with an end total change/result. i did it (the weight thing) to my racer a few years back and was surprised as to how easy it was at first and how hard it became to go past a certain point. it's like lap times on a track...the first few seconds come easy and fast and the last few tenths can take an eternity.
-parks
 
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