I thought so too at first but if you look they are too close together. There is also paint rubbing off the bottom mount, and also the rear frame member (where the clamps are attached) has been repainted in comparison to the rest of the rusty flaking frame paint. No those clamps are taking the paint off.
I don't know, that seems like a fairly decent route to me as long as you welded it to the frame. The clamp is plenty strong and you have good pressure and contact all the way around the frame as opposed to just welding on a metal plate to the frame and then putting a rear set on that. I think it looks kinda funny as its bulbous and doesn't match the frame or anything, but function wise with a little welding I think it looks pretty sound.
If you are going to go to the trouble of welding those clamps to the frame, you may as well get rid of those clamps and weld a "real" mount for the pegs to the frame. You could also space the welded mounts out to get rid of those spindly little spacers also.
Just my 2 cents.
Yeah, I'd agree with that too. I just see a lot of people weld a single piece plate straight onto the frame, which I see as potential failure too. However, if you to make a real mount that would hold (at least) two sides of the frame tube, it would be a much better solution in terms of strength.
Doesn't look like any of you guys here are mountain bikers so I'll start by saying that good stems are designed to withstand ALOT of abuse. I'm not talking about bikes from Walmart or Toys R Us- I'm talking about real mountain bikes in the $1000+ range.
Mountain bike handlebar stems are designed to hold the weight of an average bike rider. The person to ask as to whether these are really strong enough to hold the average motorcycle rider's weight (which may be higher than that of a physcially fit cyclist) is ROSKO since pedal power is kind of his bag.
Forget the static weight of the rider. Once rolling, your body becomes a dynamic load on the bike. Think about raising your ass a little as you go over railroad tracks. When the suspension bottoms out on the other side of the tracks, the force you're putting on those pegs is way higher than what you would generate sitting still.
i dunno. this seems like an alright idea to me. just a set screw away form being perfectly fine. you get a little bit of an angle out away form the frame which is a big plus for the cb750's that would need a 1" or so spacer to get the shift linkage to line up. it also looks 50x's cleaner. i'm ganna give this a shot on my 750, along with the addition of a set screw somewhere on the clamp.
my 550/4 has loops there that hold the passenger pegs. geet, just making light of tha fact, someone took the time to grind off those loops, and make it look nice, then repaint the area, but they didnt set up a decent scenario for the rearsets. a stick welder with some sheet stock would be fine. you could even weld on tabs to attach some plates for the pegs. if it goes onthose loops, its not going to hurt anything to pop something in there, tehn redo it if you dont like it. not like its structural really.
i can guarantee you this though, if you took that plate off, from a cb350/2, your going to get killed riding it.
I picked up a used KLR650 to add to my fleet and replace my old 93 DR650. I got a really good deal from the original owner up in San Francisco. I purchased this for a couple of reasons... First... Me and my son want to do some adventure riding. He's going to pick up a KLR himself and sort it...
just a quick hello my name is Steve and im a bikeaholic.
been messing around with bikes for years but im NOT a mechanic, more of a muchanic, meaning that i muck about till something works.
Look forward to joining in