[snorkelfork]

So first i'll give some background and then a problem followed by a question and another question that might also be solved by the answer to the first.

as some of you have seen i recently picked up a 71' SL350 that had been used for flat track racing. while relocating the battery i determined that the old harness was shit and decided to swap it out with a harness from from my CL350. The only differences in electrical components being the SL350 had no starter or signals to begin with. When i compare diagrams for the SL and the CB/CL there are few significant differences in the schemes primarily concerning the + and - leads and i'm not sure what to make of them. IE: the SL shows the green wire connecting to the - and the black apparently tying into the positive at the ignition rather than the terminal.The CB has the black running through the starter motor into the system and the only wire on the - is the ground to the frame.

That all said, i approached this as if my SL were a CB/CL with the starter motor, solenoid and winkers removed. i started from one end and connected the new as i removed the old. When i test the system the break light works front and rear. Also the when the ignition is turned to the far right the tail light comes on but i can not get the running lights (head and tail) to turn on or the horn to work. I have tested, retested, tried alternate components ect... My guess is that i'm missing something due to the absent starter/solenoid.

Question #1 When someone removes the starter from their cb/cl 350 what changes to the wiring are required after removing the solenoid and starter motor?

Question #2 What would allow the tail light to function but not the head and tail in tandem as well as the horn?

Christ that's a lot of writin, if you made it this far my credit to you, if you have a useful answer let me add my thanks.

the first is the CB/CL scheme the second is for the SL (the green off of the - looks black at this size)

...connoisseur of slack...

 

[joe c]

just a guess....there could be a difference in the physical ignition switch. i mean, if the wire goes right from the bettery, through the switch, and it doesnt work, then it could be the switch. if youre sure the parts work, the its in the switch for sure. or the wires are wrong. it looks different enough to me that i wouldnt try to use it. but i hate engine electrics.

jc

 

[snorkelfork]

to eliminate any incompatibilities i swapped the ignition for the one off of my CL. for all practical purposes the entire electric system is CL/CB. i'm almost sure it involves the gap where the starter/solenoid were in the system (at least it makes the most sense to me), and i figure someone on here has to have pulled them before.

...connoisseur of slack...

 

[xander450]

Did you check the ground on the blue/green wire? Also, from the looks of the diagram, all of the positives come off of the hot lead to the solenoid. What wire(s) have you got connected to the positive terminal of the battery, and are they feeding the black web? You'll notice everything black in the diagram is hot at all times when the ignition is set to "run" - so test the blacks in multiple places and see that they're being fed voltage.

Do you see that vertical row of connectors that are between the ignition switch and the engine stop switch on the diagram? Those are all in your headlight bucket. Here's what I want you to do. See that one that's got three black wires on one side and two on the other? Put the ignition switch in the run position and check for voltage between that connector and ground. Lemme know what you find.

A

 

[snorkelfork]

everyone can rest easy, problem solved. just took alex's left and my right hemisphere to work it out.

...connoisseur of slack...