Amateur Manx 40M preparation

Thought it was time to put in engine and gearbox. For those of you who don't are familiar with featherbed Nortons. Front engine plates is no problem if you get some friend or relative to lift engine in place. Rear bottom bolt holding rear engine plates to engine is hidden between lower frame tubes. This means that you have to lift the engine to get that bolt in place. Same applies to bottom gearbox bolt, except that you have to lower engine plates to get the bolt in under the frame tubes. I think you have to put on right engine plate first, then gearbox and left plate last. Definitely a bit of curious engineering.
Now a problem showed it's ugly face. The TTI gearbox was a bit fatter than a normal AMC or laydown gearbox so it hit the frame. The 5-speed modified laydown gearbox from -62 will fit and I put in an ordinary AMC gearbox just to check. Have to think it over what gearbox I'll use. Maybe a Quaife?

I'll try to take better pics in the future.

Not much new today. Got a good idea from a guy who builds and races a homemade gasturbine landspeed bike. Use a cheesehead screw instead of the protrouding Allen screw. Only problem is that I live in a metric country where a slotted 5/16UNC x 1 is almost as rare as hens teeth. Found Gearbox could not be moved fully rear. Hit fhe nut for the adjuster stay. Some grinding fixed that. Hopefully last problem with gearbox is that upper 9/16 bolt don't fit. Seems they drilled it from both sides and not in line. Did not have right size tool, so gave it to a mechanic who will fix it early next week.
Did a simple job for a change, put on the seat.
Started with the wheels. Front no problems at all, looked fine. Rear wheel, except some cobweb, needs regreasing of the bearings.
Questions to the experts:
Rear brake, there is only one spring. Should it be two and in that case, is it a Manx specific spring?
There is no bearing seals at all in the rear wheel, is that correct?

Hoping that jalsteve will have time to spread his wisdom on rear hub parts, I contnued with gearbox installation. Spent yesterday evening filing LH engine plate to accomodate that fat and heavy TTI-box.
Now the gearbox and LH engine plate is in place. Shortened the bottom gearbox stud 4mm, so now it's possible to take gearbox in and out without raising and/or lowering engine. Norton should have done that mod themselves. As a final touch I drilled a 2mm hole in the gearbox and a washer with a tab also drilled 2 mm. So now I can lockwire engine and gearbox drain plugs.
Only tricky part in gearbox assembly is the top rear engine bolt. To get washer and nut in place below the magneto and behind magneto chain covers is a bit problematic.
Washer was put in place with help of a small magnet. For the nut a thin plastic glove with nut inside (on left hand thumb) worked surpricingly well. Blurry on picture.

Clutch springs round section, think original did not last for 9 years of hard racing. Friend borrowed an excavator from me, in return took new clutch parts to machine them as old one. Nice to have friends with CNC-machines, when you only have manual machines. Race scrutineers nowadays might have some opinions on some original parts, so some parts had to be made. Alloy footrests done and threaded 7/16 BSC. Since the old Arrgardh gearbox had a reverse gearlever, a temporary gearlever is made. If the bike is ever is running again, I'll decide what length it shall have and make a period looking one. The TTI-box was ordered with that in mind, so it will be the usual 1st up, the rest down as all my other English bikes have. Today made a .6mm shim under engine sprocket. Primary chain is now quite inline.
As nearest Manx I know of is some 150 miles away, there are things that I can't figure out.
What does bolt or stud holding front of chainguard look like?
Since most of the oil and breather lines was a real mess when I got the bike, advice please. That upper line to oil tank is return and lower is supply is probably right but the rest?
Have to make a tool for retainer holding rear wheel bearing. Difficult to figure out diameter for the 4 holes. Of course a hammerhappy cretin had been there.