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Discussion Starter #1
This bike has been sitting for about 15 years, and was the last bike my grandpa rode. This is pretty much how I got it and it needs a lot of work. I am starting with the motor, one of the spark plug holes is stripped, so I have to pull off the top end, and I need some carbs. It turns over fine with the kick starter and the oil is clean, so I hope I can leave the bottom end alone. Any advice would be appreciated. Hoping to start motor work next week as soon as I figuire out how to pull that top end off (I am used to two stroke dirt bikes)
 

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You don't have to pull the top end to repair the spark plug hole. First thing I would try is chasing the threads with a special tap for repairing spark plug holes. I think I got mine at NAPA or Snap-on most of the time I have found that will work if you are extra careful threading a new plug in and out. If that won't do it because th thread material has already pulled out then you can heli-coil it with the thread on. The key is to use lots of heavy grease on the drill bit and the tap. In the event that any small bits of the head fall into the cylinder, my belief is that they are aluminum and get blown straight out the exhaust as soon as it fires up. I know that it is not the right way to do it, but I have done it on at least a dozen motors oer the years and never had a comeback on it. If the engine is in good shape other tan the spark plug hole, then I would rather not teaar the head off. Remember, lots of grease on the tols when chasing threads, or heli-coiling.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the heads up, looks like a helicoil will be an easy fix, I will probably still pull the buckets just to check the cylinders (32k on the odometer) and replace the gaskets.

I know this question has probably been asked ten thousand times, but what do you guys use that works best for removing some pretty bad rust from the wheels/fenders?
 

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I used black rustoleum to take care of the rust on my chrome front fender It is not Flat Black.
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I used a combination of mother alum polish and turtle waw chrome polish/rust remover, does not look to bad for 35 yr old chrome, as long as you are about 10 feet away. The cam guide looks like toast, do I just have to break that timing chain to get it off? if I am not touching the bottom end?

 

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That camchain tensioner pivots on a pin that is captured between the cylinders and the cases. You'll have to remove the cylinders to remove that tensioner.

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the heads up, does anyone know where I can get the replacement cam chain with the master link on it. I want to tear into this motor this weekend and want to make sure that I do not have to mess with the bottom end.
 

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eeesh. dont know where to get the rivet or clipped cam chain. splitting the cases only takes a few more hours, and you should replace the seals anyway. i realize its quite a bit more work, but if youre going in that deep, why not?

this is the place to be if youre not sure about anything cb350 related.

jc
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Joe, that is what I am starting to think myself, but how do I get the heads off? Do I have to disassemble the valves and cam to get around the chain?
 

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Have you gotten a copy of the factory manual yet? If not download the copy off of the web. Do a search, there's a link on this website somewhere. You don't have to remove the valves to get the head off but the cam needs to come out. Or just use a chain breaker on the cam chain since you're going to replace that anyhow.

But get the manual, it'll help when you get to the bottom end.

Craig
 

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To remove the cam without breaking the chain:

1. Remove the two M6 cam gear retaining bolts that hold the cam gear to the cam.

2. Remove both covers located at the top of the rocker box that hold the cam in place (one is the points base cover and the other contains the tach drive mount and an oil passage).

3. String some baling wire/safety wire through the cam chain and tie it off somewhere on the exterior of the engine. The idea here is to not let the cam chain drop into the lower case.

4. By now you will have noticed that the cam is loose in the rocker box and with a little wiggling you should be able to get it out of there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all of your advice, cant find the 350 manual, only the 350 four. anyway I will get the heads off this weekend and worry about the bottom end as soon as I get the manual. I have got plenty of polishing to do, and I still need to strip the frame for paint, hopfully I will have some update photos next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I have been off this project for a while, but I am back on it. Thanks soo much for all of your advice. I have the top end and jug off. Does not look bad inside, so I will not be splitting the cases. There is a lot of rubber floating around due to the disintigrated cam chain guide roller. I need to get the oil filter rotor off to pull out and clean the oil pump, does anyone know where i can get the tool for that?
 

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best bet is to make one from an old socket of the same diameter and a grinder. seen it done quite a few times works great.
 

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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motorcycle-Tool-Honda-Oil-Filter-Clutch-Hub-Spanner_W0QQitemZ320313329397QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item320313329397&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72:727|65:12|39:1|240:1318

At that price it's probably cheaper than using an old socket. Think long and hard about not splitting the cases when you have all that rubber floating around in there. The oil passages to the head are pretty small and it won't take much to clog them up with the rubber bits. The only way I know to really ensure that all of the crap is out of the bottom end is to tear it completely down and clean it out good. But it's your motor.

Craig
 

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while i do agree with craig, it dosnt appear your wheel is too bad. i always figured the bottom of the cases had all of those little compartments to collect debris as well as strengthen them. get the screen off the pump, clean that, and the little pocket it goes in, and get the slinger apart, and clean that, then check them both at the first few oil changes, i think youll be fine. if the wheel is so far shot already, from running, id say its more likely there would already be damage if there is going to be some, using craigs thought process. id bore it up a size or 2 at least. clean the bottom end out with kerosene or something, completely drain it, fill it with oil, cycle the oil through with the electric starter, but dont start it, dump the oil, and then put in fresh oil. then run it.

craig is right though, its always nice to know youre starting with fresh new everything. but if youve never pulled one down to the cases, it can be a little intimidating.

just my opinion

jc
 

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oh, and if you cant wait, order the tool. it will be worth the trouble youll go through to find the perfect socket, and then attacking it with a grinder. otherwise a socket works fine. the nice thing is the tool gets the nut back on without worry.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, It would have taken me forever to find the right part, ordered one from cycle gear ($10) on friday, should be here today or tomorrow. Not sure about splitting the cases yet, I REALLY don't want to, I guess I will decide when I get the oil pump out. I don't have carbs yet anyway, and will probably start concentrating on the cleaning, polishing and painting.
 

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split the cases. it will make you feel manly!

then you can bead blast the cases too.

tex
 
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