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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, following on from my first few posts and I’m still here, I’ve not been scared off just yet! :D

If anyone is interested, this was as it was collected.



Stuck a Lithium battery on the bike this morning, stuck some fuel in a Sealey remote tank and turned it over a few time until it ran. It cleared up after a little while.


That was enough excuse to strip it down and make a start. Cut off the rear of the subframe in readiness of the cafe seat arriving, chopped the pipe off the headers and welded a stub on to fix my end can when it arrives, then fitted some cheap Chinese shocks which were shit but the guy is in the UK and is refunding, but they did raises the arse end a little. I have a pair of shocks from a 2017 Street Twin on their way.

If anyone feels the need to comment even if it’s just to try to tear me a new A-hole, please do. All comments welcome:D









 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is.
It's been sat in a wood shed for 5 years and not started since the previous owner got it! Hopefully once I've decided on the route I'm taking it'll gradually get cleaned up with polished alloy, powder coated cycle parts and fresh paint.
 

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... sat in a wood shed for 5 years ...
Check your rear brake master cylinder for signs of corrosion :| it's likely screwed or well on its way to it.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it will absorb water out of the atmosphere, that old fluid typically makes a mess of the hydraulics in the brake master cylinder.

... those shock bodies look used, my guess they were bought on a deal ?



Cancel that lol your bike has a POS drum rear brake, it was screwed the day they made it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
why buy shocks from a street twin? why not buy some decent replacement shocks for an er5?
Cos they were cheap. I never bought this to throw lots of money at it. It ain't worth it. My thinking is the weight once I've hacked a load of metal and rust off if will be similar to the Triumph and if I end up liking the finished article then I can upgrade later. For now it's gonna be a cheap project. So far it owes me a few hundred quid including the purchase. Besides they have to be at least 1000% better that the cheap Chinese items currently fitted. Now they really are a POS!

Check your rear brake master cylinder for signs of corrosion :| it's likely screwed or well on its way to it.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it will absorb water out of the atmosphere, that old fluid typically makes a mess of the hydraulics in the brake master cylinder.

... those shock bodies look used, my guess they were bought on a deal ?



Cancel that lol your bike has a POS drum rear brake, it was screwed the day they made it.
Haha, I'm hoping to source some cheapo rear sets off something different before its finished so it'll get sorted then. I'd like to try and fit a GPZ rear wheel to convert it to disc but for now it stays as is until I'm ready to attack the running gear. Frame mods first I think.

Talking of which, today I removed the bars, headlight, clocks etc then fitted some cheap clip-ons, then sent my top yoke to my tame machinist to flush it all on the milling machine.

I also got the bike up on my lift so its level and stable to work on.
I had to spend over an hour with a grinder and mole grips to hack off the front guard as the bolts were all seized. All sorted now.

Oh yeah, I don't THINK the shocks are used, they've been removed from a 2017 bike after the owner I assume upgraded to something proper but for £21 I really con't grumble. They have to be better than the originals which are now 20 years old and have 40k miles under their belt.

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Only one way to tell if those shocks are good :I you remove the springs and pump the shock by hand, see if it works smooth and consistent throughout its entire travel, anything else is guesswork.


Drum brakes are ok lol just when you need em they lock up real good.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yeah, the water looked clean an a lovely shade of blue from the coolant.:cool:

Today’s work was replace the shocks with the Triumph ones (the mounts are huge, frame modification required!!) cut out the subframe top tube, replace it with my new one. Thankfully the seat arrived so I could get on with it. My machinist got my shaved down yoke back too.

Been a busy day but I’m pleased with the outcome. Need to sort the bottom tube a suspension mounts once my 25mm tube arrives which is good as the back end needs to go down anyway.


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Was there any water left inside the engine? Take a look at your clutch plates, that should tell you.
Ok how about this, was there any water in the engine oil? :rolleyes:

Holy! what are you doing to your twin shock man?
You kind of chopped off an important part of the frame before even having a replacement bit to weld in place, that's either foolish or ballsy.
 

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Don’t think so, haven’t checked yet. Why? What am I missing here?
Your rear shock mounts were located and supported by a big triangle :| you killed the big triangle,
how are you going to weld in a replacement with no jig and no original frame to hold things in relation to one another?
... and how are you going to weld onto an old piece of unknown steel tube as good as the factory original weld? You better be a phenomenal welder.
 

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Oops, now way man, I just seen one of your blob welds :eek:
read up on round tube butt joint workpiece preparation and the importance of weld penetration,
practice making and breaking (destructive testing) some test pieces using similar materials to what you are attempting to weld.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No you didn't see one of my blob welds. It wasn't meant to be structural, it's a support holding the tank mount in place to keep a fixed point for the fuel tank.It isn't going anywhere :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
There will be spigots plug welded into the frame which in turn will be plug welded into the subframe then seam welded. I know one end of a welder from the other.

I replaced 40% of the chassis on my 73 Bay Window camper. I’m not a welder but I can do more than your usual hobbyists pigeon shit blobs! I wouldn’t be entertaining this work if I wasn’t confident in my abilities.

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Before

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During

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After

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The Cafe title attracts a lot of butchers. I agree with Trials that a couple braces would have been a good idea before cutting. It would be a shame if some of it's old stresses show up.

The tail end looks a little high.

Bay window camper a Volkswagen?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Yeah, the camper is 47 years old and was a basket case. The chassis is maybe 95% complete and hopefully it’ll be back on it’s wheels this year then I can finish the bodywork before building the engine. Too many projects. :)

I understand there are a lot of guys and in my short time here I’ve seen the standard of projects because someone saw a nice cafe racer made fro a classic and thinks they can do the same but hold no ability. I hope I have shown with my work thus far that I’m not an unskilled buffoon.

The problems with trying to brace everything is where to brace it from as I’m going to need to place a tube where the existing tubes live. My thinking is the existing supports for the shocks are made in 25mm tube, they’re tied together side to side, they’re gusseted and they are currently not supporting the bike as it is suspended. If I remove one shock it’ll go straight back on without adjusting anything which proves it is still stable and has not moved.
Yes the arse end is too high as the shocks are 50mm longer than standard and the new upper mounts will be remanufactured to correct this.
That is my only concern as I will have then modified the dimensions of the said triangle by making the shock slightly more upright and I will have changed the dimensions of the triangle very slightly and I do not know to what end. I did take measurements prior to starting and I could go back to standard length shock and nothing else would change. Can anyone here offer a shred of advice in this area? Will this minor change massively affect the rising rate etc or the rake & trail? If a minor 2 or 3 degree difference of the orientation with affect anything? I assume the original bike will have lazy rake and trail figures due to its nature and maybe a slight tail high stance will assist with turn in etc but this is the only area where I have minimal knowledge ( I have modified another bikes suspension previously when I fitted a full Hayabusa front end and ZXR750 rear end to a street fightered GPZ750R and the rake and trail figures of the final article were similar to a ZX6R so it actually rode well.

If anyone can offer some constructive advice regarding the suspension It’d be most appreciated
 

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:cool: Just as long as you understand what welding really is:
You have your piece of steel on your left, you have your piece of steel on your right and you have some welding rod material,
if all three of these things do not melt and combine, stitch and meld together at the molecular level to form one piece of steel.

:( This is not a weld, it's a steel glue joint. Whatever you do don't make steel glue joints or they will fail.

 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
:D
Oh, OK.

I’d happily cut apart any of my structural welds to prove I had full fusion or penetration. My machine will run up to 185A with a very good duty cycle.
 

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What are you welding with?

You know after careful consideration, I think you may as well make it a home built mono-shock, you've lost all of the reference points that made it a twin-shock.
 
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