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you can reflash the ecu to disable the immo function. the immo, which is in the dash, wants to see the correct code from the key. if it doesn't, it doesn't send the code to the ecu to say it can start. if you disable the immo function in the ecu file, the ecu simply ignores the immo and activates the start function when the button is pushed. then you get a key cut with the correct mechanical code and away you go. the immo light on the dash will still act like it has the shits (because it does), often goes out when you open the throttle while running.

if you disable the immo function in the ecu file, you can also run it without a dash or with any sort of aftermarket dash, and any key.

i don't know if anyone can make keys to suit a dash (immo) with the dash only. maybe they can, i don't get into that. there are people around who specialise in working with the dashes.

guzzidiag allows you to read the eeprom as well, which is where the updateable stuff - idle trim and immo code - is stored, but i've never played with it to know what you can do. if you could virginise the ecu it'd work in another bike with the original immo and key, but not if you don't have an original key.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
you can reflash the ecu to disable the immo function. the immo, which is in the dash, wants to see the correct code from the key. if it doesn't, it doesn't send the code to the ecu to say it can start. if you disable the immo function in the ecu file, the ecu simply ignores the immo and activates the start function when the button is pushed. then you get a key cut with the correct mechanical code and away you go. the immo light on the dash will still act like it has the shits (because it does), often goes out when you open the throttle while running.

if you disable the immo function in the ecu file, you can also run it without a dash or with any sort of aftermarket dash, and any key.

i don't know if anyone can make keys to suit a dash (immo) with the dash only. maybe they can, i don't get into that. there are people around who specialise in working with the dashes.

guzzidiag allows you to read the eeprom as well, which is where the updateable stuff - idle trim and immo code - is stored, but i've never played with it to know what you can do. if you could virginise the ecu it'd work in another bike with the original immo and key, but not if you don't have an original key.
Thanks for the info. We have access to super geek and a top notch locksmith so hopefully I'll soon be able to tell you all it will do.

With the fires, I hope all is well with you and yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ideally, you should buy another monster ;) one that runs. Absolutely nothing makes trouble-shooting easier then having two nearly identical bikes, you just swap parts until the problem appears on the other one, if the problem never goes to the other bike the problem is not with those parts :| is so easy.
We now have the original 695 running properly and all the electronic gizmos flashing when appropriate. It is a stock 6,500 km bike, we should do well on it and someone will get a good deal on a nice bike.

Got the patch cord for running the diagnostics and the 1000 (which may be a Senna model according to some) is showing 10 errors. My partner and his crew are working through the issues. If they can't find the issue we will at least have a complete picture for Brad to look at.

Jumping in with both feet we decided to buy a third bike, this one with no key. It's a 2003 620ie, don't know the mileage. it's got a Remus high outlet exhaust and cosmetically it's good so we should be able to get the $500 we paid back out. The real reason behind buying it was to have a bike without a key for the experimentation. Ideally by the time my partner is done we should be able to have a working keyed ignition.

Both the 620 and the 1000 have had exhaust changes and the lids of the air boxes cut open. The 1000 shows it's not a virgin ecu in it, so it has been tuned. I am assuming that the 620's program has been modified as well, it also has a fuel tuner onboard. Both have LED brake/signal piece of shit, cheap tail lights. I don't understand why anyone would put such trash on, it's the thing that tells the tractor trailer not to run over you. Two different manufacturers and neither work properly. Sometimes the come on, maybe blink, maybe not. RRRRRRR....smash! is the solution for this problem.

The bike has a seized caliper and it has been to cold to fix it to get off, I had to sling it on the truck. The next few days will be above -10c which will give me a chance to get it cleaned up and in where it's warm. The seat and pillion cowl are in good condition. The plate hanger has been removed, don't know where he might have hung it to keep the Crew in Blue at bay.
DSC01380.JPG
 

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Oooooo that looks salty. Heated garage, highly recommended, is minus 19C here today and I'm going to wash and wax the Toyota :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Oooooo that looks salty. Heated garage, highly recommended, is minus 19C here today and I'm going to wash and wax the Toyota :cool:
It was to cold for salt when I picked it up, it's the limestone powder from the gravel at the compound, now frozen mud. I don't usually need to wash anything this size in the winter and I can't be sure my floor drain will drain with the series of weather events we have had. I heat 400sqft of the Palace in the winter but it's my clean area. If I need to do wood or metal work I just wait until we are above -5c and I'm good to go. Tomorrow looks like a potential wash day, outside the south side of the building should get in to positive temp numbers, according to the weather guessers.
 

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Where do you find a monster at those prices? I need one for SWMBO to replace her FZR400. Thinking a 695 might be a good place to start.
 

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Where do you find a monster at those prices? I need one for SWMBO to replace her FZR400. Thinking a 695 might be a good place to start.
lol Only in Canada eh ;)
... your $ is currently 31% inflated and you are not subjected to our 13% sales tax on absolutely everything. Don't complain about the cost of stuff, you guys have it good right now.

;) if you talk real nice to the woodsman maybe he will cut you a good deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Where do you find a monster at those prices? I need one for SWMBO to replace her FZR400. Thinking a 695 might be a good place to start.
If you want a nice weekend trip we do have a good 695 in black. 6500km a couple blemishes but they are not eye catching. Ontario safety (really, truly safe and ready for the love of your life to ride) $3,000US. We could likely throw in accommodation and a night of sledin'.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The 1000 ecu.
My partner has worked through the software and feels he has a pretty good grasp on it's use but you really don't know what you know until you fuck up. We do have an issue with the ecu that leads us to believe it may be NFG and are now in the process of sorting the replacement of the unit. There is always a problem with rookies not really sure what they are looking at. It is not quite as simple as buying another and sticking it in, there are a couple of options for ecu's each with different software requirements. We are just checking availability of used parts and then want to confirm that what we would buy should work in the bike's system.

Got the 620 unloaded and cleaned up. Other than a couple small dents in the tank, which I can pull, it is a decent bike, so we'll fix and flip. I bought a box of used parts for $200 that has the brackets, foot pegs and brake lever. As well as the taillight the 620 needs. So I have pulled the ignition and the seat lock out of the bike and taken it to our locksmith to get keys cut.

Just want to acknowledge that the amount of information that we have got from Brad's post across the different forums has been priceless. We however can't afford priceless. We could offer the only true international biker currency, if someone can tell us how to get a case of beer delivered in Australia.

Tank has a few dings, clean inside.
$_59.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I took the ecu from the 620 and my partner made a copy of the data that was on it. He then loaded the software from the 1000 into the 620's ecu, the 1000 fired right up and ran like a champ. We need to track down another ecu but we are 2 out of 3 in the running bike department now. Hopefully with a key for the 620 we will have all 3 going.
 

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are you aware of the ecu differences?

there's two types - 59m and 5am. files do not interchange between them. i think they have different processors. visually identical, and functionally identical with the appropriate file loaded. 5am is more physically reliable than 59m.

there are two types of 5am. hw103 and hw610. files do not interchange. my tool assumes i know what i'm doing, and i've bricked a few 103 forgetting to check and trying to flash 610 files into them.

also, early m620 don't have a clutch switch and there's a specific file for them. a later file won't start, and you have to earth a pin in the ecu to make it go. how you get into the connector and actually do that i've never worked out. i had a customer fit a 900 engine into a very early 620 and even the 2002 m900ie file wouldn't start.

so when you read a file from an ecu record the ducati number and the marelli software # in the saved file name. there is a ducati sequence # on the sticker - 001 >, a ducati part # - 2864xxxxxx for oem, 965xxxxxx for ducati performance and the marelli software # - S20DG119 for example. 59m often have no real identification in the file itself, so it can make it hard.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
are you aware of the ecu differences?

there's two types - 59m and 5am. files do not interchange between them. i think they have different processors. visually identical, and functionally identical with the appropriate file loaded. 5am is more physically reliable than 59m.

there are two types of 5am. hw103 and hw610. files do not interchange. my tool assumes i know what i'm doing, and i've bricked a few 103 forgetting to check and trying to flash 610 files into them.

also, early m620 don't have a clutch switch and there's a specific file for them. a later file won't start, and you have to earth a pin in the ecu to make it go. how you get into the connector and actually do that i've never worked out. i had a customer fit a 900 engine into a very early 620 and even the 2002 m900ie file wouldn't start.

so when you read a file from an ecu record the ducati number and the marelli software # in the saved file name. there is a ducati sequence # on the sticker - 001 >, a ducati part # - 2864xxxxxx for oem, 965xxxxxx for ducati performance and the marelli software # - S20DG119 for example. 59m often have no real identification in the file itself, so it can make it hard.
We have been reading non stop and have run across a pile of your posts dealing with ecu's, one which covered the basics of the models. I am not a techy, a bin is where I keep parts, so I pass your comments on to my partner. This is really up his alley so he has been like a kid in a candy store learning this stuff. We will put the ecu back in the 620 with it's original file and are working on getting another unit for the 1000. The 1000 has a 59M so one from a 2001 S4 should work?

The 620 has an up swept Remus exhaust and the top of the air box has been removed. The po added a power commander. Would the PC have been added rather than programming a new tune?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
We have learned a couple le$$ons regarding used Ducati parts. The 1000's front rim has a bend, subtle but it's there. The red Brembo 3 spoke wheel is not an easy thing to find. The other option is getting a plain one and have it powder coated. Finding a matching used clutch lever and switch is proving difficult as well. Japanese clutch switch $5, Moto Guzzi $25, Ducati $75 all are a basic plunger micro switch.

Bought another ECU for it, he dumped the original ECU's programming into the new to us and it started right up.

The oil in the 620 was as bad as I've seen in an engine, just a brown sludge. I wrapped a heat cable around the block, got it hot and drained the oil. Poured in a hot fresh litre, let it sit and then drained and it came out relatively clean. No filings detectable with magnet and magnifying glass. Hopefully the engine is sound.

The locksmith has got keys working for it's ignition and tank/seat locks. The immobilizer has been turned off in the ECU and the theory is that I can put everything back in place then it will fire up and run like a champion.

Today started out a bright, sunny -34C and is to be bitter for the balance. Just can't get excited about going out and warming up the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Managed to fuck up my back and laid me up for a few days, I am going again now. It may be hard to believe but it was 40C warmer yesterday then when I posted 10 days ago. We needed a burst of springish weather.

Got the 620 put back together. I initially screwed up by grounding the ecu to the battery. I don't understand why but the ecu ground must run to the mounting post of the ecu or it will not work. The fuel pump and the relay both just chatter if the ecu is not grounded in the right spot. Any thoughts on why it works this way?

Once I realized my error and corrected it the bike fired right up. It runs with no obvious problems. I didn't run it long as I don't understand the Power Commander so I have no idea if it is set properly. I would hate to find it was running lean. 5C today so I can move it outside and wash it.

The one downside in getting the 620 running is I can now see it has 67,000km (41,000miles). With the shape the oil was in it doesn't make me confident that its 67,000 well maintained km's.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Clutch switch-
The 2003 620 does not have a clutch switch the 620S does. This is a 620S.
 

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Managed to fuck up my back and laid me up for a few days, I am going again now. It may be hard to believe but it was 40C warmer yesterday then when I posted 10 days ago. We needed a burst of springish weather.

Got the 620 put back together. I initially screwed up by grounding the ecu to the battery. I don't understand why but the ecu ground must run to the mounting post of the ecu or it will not work. The fuel pump and the relay both just chatter if the ecu is not grounded in the right spot. Any thoughts on why it works this way?

Once I realized my error and corrected it the bike fired right up. It runs with no obvious problems. I didn't run it long as I don't understand the Power Commander so I have no idea if it is set properly. I would hate to find it was running lean. 5C today so I can move it outside and wash it.

The one downside in getting the 620 running is I can now see it has 67,000km (41,000miles). With the shape the oil was in it doesn't make me confident that its 67,000 well maintained km's.
Does it literally have an isolated ground, that goes to what, same place as the battery ground? very curious.

Hurt back sucks but could be worse, you could be stuck on a cruise ship.
 

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Got the 620 put back together. I initially screwed up by grounding the ecu to the battery. I don't understand why but the ecu ground must run to the mounting post of the ecu or it will not work. The fuel pump and the relay both just chatter if the ecu is not grounded in the right spot. Any thoughts on why it works this way?
all the 59m and 5am are externally grounded. just how it is. happens a bit.
 
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