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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I inadvertently cut through the plastic seam at the rear of the fuel tank of my '97 Triumph T595 Daytona, and she leaks gas. Through some testing, I've found that JB Weld fuel proof epoxy resists immersion in gas very well, my concern is how well will it stick to the tank given the elastic nature of the plastic.

I get full access to the interior side of the failure, and my plan was of course to rough up the surrounding surfaces, fill the seam from the inside, and then top coat the epoxy with either POR-15 fuel resistant coating or Cream tank liner.

My leading solution is to get a used replacement tank. Either way I plan to paint the tank, so the replacement tank doesn't need to be cosmetically perfect.

Am I crazy to even consider repairing this tank given the potential for a leak and a fire right in my groin area?

Thanks!
 

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Without seeing it, plastic weld is likely to be better then adhesives
and liquid tank liner is great if you plan to sell the motorcycle immediately, otherwise it's garbage that will come back to haunt you when it finally dissolves and travels through your combustion chamber, except for the lumps that plug up your fuel filters.
 

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Without seeing it, plastic weld is likely to be better then adhesives
and liquid tank liner is great if you plan to sell the motorcycle immediately, otherwise it's garbage that will come back to haunt you when it finally dissolves and travels through your combustion chamber, except for the lumps that plug up your fuel filters.
Any advice on getting that nasty shit out of a tank that it's already deteriorating in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the plastic weld tip, I'll be taking your advice to go with a used tank. Fixing a clogged fuel filter on a fuel injected bike would be a difficult roadside repair.

I believe that Cream tank liner is dissolved with either MEK or Acetone. As you state, it is nasty stuff, and I believe that it deteriorates first where the underlying surface wasn't pristine. I have a xs650 tank in such a state, and where I chose to replace with a new steel repro tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Interim update. While waiting for my 'new' used tank to arrive, I experimented with various methods to try to seal the leaking tank. Spoiler alert, so far tank replacement is still the preferred method.

After digging around the wound, and trying to melt the existing tank material to get a plastic welding bond, it sure smells like the tank is made out of a nylon like material. The plastic welding kit I tried was really unsuited for working in the confines of inside the tank, so I went with various torch heated home made steel tools to try to melt the existing and new materials with limited success.

Using denatured alcohol to test with I was able to slow the leak, but not stop it.

Next I tried dripping some melted nylon (from nylon rope) into the wound thinking that the elevated temperature of the liquid nylon would melt the tank material enough to co-mingle the materials to create a seal. Again, with limited success.

I am open to ideas on how else to approach this. I may try making a plug out of JB Weld, which I'd 'braze' in with melted nylon. I may also try pot melting the nylon to try to get more thermal consistency in the melted nylon.

Thoughts?
 

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Ski shops sell the kits to repair plastic, that's the closest thing I have ever worked with, lol half a century ago.

Nothing beats an aluminum or titanium fuel tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Final update: New/used tank arrived, condition is much better than expected and is perfectly usable.

During this time I was successful at plugging the leak by aggressively melting the existing plastic, and then stirring in melted nylon rope. While the alcohol finally didn't leak, I wouldn't trust this fix.
 
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