[bfd]

I need to change the oil seal on the tach cable drive on my CB350 and would like to keep the motor intact and in the frame due to time constraints. Any ideas that would work on a 175 will work here too.
I had a thought about trying a corkscrew on an old spare cam bearing to see if it gouges anything.
bfd

 

[bfd]

ok
A set a pliers with a good biting edge grabs the end of the tach drive well enough to yank it out. I went 4 for 4 without breakage on old spares. I decided to wait until I had a 0.0 bac to pull out the real repair.
bfd

 

[jbranson]

Bill,
I thought the seal was the last thing to go into the hole where the tach cable enters?

Couldn't you just pull the seal out and leave the drive in place? Then press in a new seal. I have a set of mechanics "dental" picks I use for such jobs. One has a hooked end, very sharp, it will dig right into seals and you just pull them out.
JohnnyB

 

[joe c]

and dont forget to club them first.


jc

 

[bfd]

JohnnyB
The seal is indeed the last thing. The cheesy dental pick I have won't do the job, that's why I was thinking of the corkscrew as it appeared to be rugged enough. The gear on the cable drive is straight and length wise so it can be pulled easily without damage and be easier to clean the area.
Both the 175 and 350 leak at this seal but I supposed that to be expected with NOS seals and the rpm of the drive behind it. The 175 stopped leaking there after replaceing this seal.

Joe-it will never know what hit it
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[jbranson]

Bill...hehe...on a guess I included a spare tach seal in the spares kit for Hiroshi's bike.

Beside them being a little heavy...those OEM tachs are pretty nice. No wiring or batteries to mess with and the time I tested one it was dead on accurate.
JohnnyB

 

[bfd]

JohnnyB
Wouldn't that be a pisser!
I never got to look closely at his bike. He wasn't standing there often so I didn't want to go poking around, the guy doesn't know me.
It doesn't sound like the culprit- unless of course that's the one repair part you don't bring
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