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Well I have a mid year Targa with a very ramshackle 2.7 built from junk bits. I was planning to make up little short manifolds and fit ST 1050 throttle bodies (52mm IIRC).

Rusefi: rusEfi

Even though Rusefi isnt quite as polished as the MS series, I like it better because it uses an ARM processor core. I have worked with this processor a good bit. It also has much more potential future development due to using this processor, as well as being cheaper overall. Plus, without getting into a political debate, i truly hate the drama and crap surrounding MS now. Not to mention how bad the licensing agreements are.

Even though my engine has the CIS pistons in it, I would venture to say that swapping to anything without the trapdoor fuel distributor would improve things. Except maybe reliability. A sorted CIS engine will take you around the world and back home again with no grief.

All this is assuming I don't sell the thing.

I will poke around and see if i have some pics of it. I am sure i do someplace. Right now its inside of a shed at my parents.
Based on your description of the 2.7, I assume it hasn't received the recommended case mods? IMO, 52mm manifolds would be overkill on a 2.7 for anything but a full blown race motor. I'm old school and prefer dealing with carbs, but EFI is definitely more controllable and stable over a wider array of conditions when properly set up. I agree on the CIS, can be made to be very reliable, but lots of very expensive components (fuel dist, WUR, etc) to replace when it misbehaves. Don't be too quick to sell, values continue to rise, even mid-year cars with ramshackle 2.7's are rising. Would definitely like to se a picture.
 

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Yes, definitely going to drop it. The worst leak is forward of the CIS and I can't stand the thought of contorting myself to get in there (assuming I could do it), plus it needs a lot of lipstick. I was more or less resolved to replacing some of those cam chain bits, but hopefully not much else. Broken studs would be a nuisance. Then I'd have to inspect everything else in there, and who knows what that would lead to. Although things seem reasonably quiet in there now, you're correct, those ramps must be just baked. It doesn't have the later oil fed tensioners and not sure I'll bother putting them on even though it's probably a good idea and a good selling feature. Will just do the collars if they aren't already in there. I have to track down one of those little hydraulic M/C lifts and mod it to drop the engine. I have a large floor jack, but could use a lift anyway. If I can destinkify it enough, I can wheel the engine stand into the basement and work on it in a nice warm room with decent lighting. Learned long ago that things happen faster if they are close by and in a civilized environment. When I first met the bride, I was known to have motorcycles in the living room and bedroom, so she has a reasonably high tolerance for my bad behavior. As long as it doesn't smell bad, it's ok.
There's a lot of debate on the virtues of pressure-fed tensioners vs non pressure-fed. Pressure-fed tensioners can still fail, so if I were in your position, I'd go with collars to minimize risk of damage. I have a set that came with my motor, you can have them if your motor doesn't already have them installed. I also have a set of collapsible aluminum oil drain tubes in case yours are leaking and you aren't planning to remove the cam towers. I have lots of parts remaining from a '79 I parted, let me know if you need something.

A MC lift is a good idea, but not absolutely necessary. A HF moving dolly, a few short 2x4's and a couple of good floor jacks work okay. I like the idea of working in a comfortable climate, but I know too well that you can never destinkify (your word, not mine) anything that's meant to be in the garage enough to satisfy the little woman. My GF tells me I smell like the garage if I just walk through it on my way into the house...:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
There's a lot of debate on the virtues of pressure-fed tensioners vs non pressure-fed. Pressure-fed tensioners can still fail, so if I were in your position, I'd go with collars to minimize risk of damage. I have a set that came with my motor, you can have them if your motor doesn't already have them installed. I also have a set of collapsible aluminum oil drain tubes in case yours are leaking and you aren't planning to remove the cam towers. I have lots of parts remaining from a '79 I parted, let me know if you need something.

A MC lift is a good idea, but not absolutely necessary. A HF moving dolly, a few short 2x4's and a couple of good floor jacks work okay. I like the idea of working in a comfortable climate, but I know too well that you can never destinkify (your word, not mine) anything that's meant to be in the garage enough to satisfy the little woman. My GF tells me I smell like the garage if I just walk through it on my way into the house...:rolleyes:
It would appear that a woman's sense of smell is far more acute than ours. My wife can smell beer on my breath from 4 blocks away.
Thanks for the offer on the collars.. will let you know, although at the pace I'm going on this, it may be a while before it gets dropped. My motor already has the collapsible tubes, but was thinking if I do have to dig deeper because of a stud or two, that I would put stock tubes back in (assuming that makes sense). In my case, I'm sticking with the CIS, so I can get collector plates. The insurance is only a few hundred a year. There is a fellow where I used to work, that was an instructor at VW and he taught CIS troubleshooting. He will lean over my shoulder and bark orders if need be. I have lots of extra CIC bits including a supposedly known good WUR, and I bought the rig for testing the FP.
 

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I ran the solid tensioners in mine. I don't recommend this unless you just enjoy removing cam box covers at every valve change. The reality was I had solid tensioners (came in one of the cores i bought for cheap..) and did not have the money for oil fed ones. So i sucked it up and checked the tensioners every time I adjusted valves. And I adjusted those more often than recommended.

I may end up going with the small triumph throttle bodies. There was some reason i felt the larger ones were better. I think it may have been due to injectors, or possibly something to do with idle air. I think the 1050 uses a stepper to open the plates, so i could sync both sides and use one stepper to open both racks.
 

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It would appear that a woman's sense of smell is far more acute than ours. My wife can smell beer on my breath from 4 blocks away.
Thanks for the offer on the collars.. will let you know, although at the pace I'm going on this, it may be a while before it gets dropped. My motor already has the collapsible tubes, but was thinking if I do have to dig deeper because of a stud or two, that I would put stock tubes back in (assuming that makes sense). In my case, I'm sticking with the CIS, so I can get collector plates. The insurance is only a few hundred a year. There is a fellow where I used to work, that was an instructor at VW and he taught CIS troubleshooting. He will lean over my shoulder and bark orders if need be. I have lots of extra CIC bits including a supposedly known good WUR, and I bought the rig for testing the FP.
Sounds like a good plan for the car. Keep us informed on your progress, good to see another air-cooled classic resurrected!
 

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I ran the solid tensioners in mine. I don't recommend this unless you just enjoy removing cam box covers at every valve change. The reality was I had solid tensioners (came in one of the cores i bought for cheap..) and did not have the money for oil fed ones. So i sucked it up and checked the tensioners every time I adjusted valves. And I adjusted those more often than recommended.

I may end up going with the small triumph throttle bodies. There was some reason i felt the larger ones were better. I think it may have been due to injectors, or possibly something to do with idle air. I think the 1050 uses a stepper to open the plates, so i could sync both sides and use one stepper to open both racks.
The solid tensioners are great for race cars, not so great for a street driven car as you say, but they are a fail proof option.

You can run a much larger throttle body as long as you can effectively limit the airflow to what the cylinders can handle. I run 40mm Webers with 34mm chokes on my 3.0, your 2.7 would probably require 32mm chokes, so you can see why 52s would be far larger than your motor could ever use. Not sure how the 1050 TBs function, so I may be comparing apples and oranges, I apologize if that's the case.
 

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Btw Raven, I've been to Milledgeville several times on business trips (back in the late 80s), you anywhere near the women's prison? :cool:
 

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nah i am out across the river :)

i think the best thing i have bought recently on CL was the van norman mill.
 

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20150322_185509_zpsbijqb3yt.jpg

Just picked up a K.O. Lee surface grinder. Table is on bearings, Walker electromagnetic chuck, $375 for it.
 
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