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Discussion Starter #1
I need a set of fork boots to fit my Sears 106. About 1.5" ID on one end, 1.8" ID on the other....around 10-12" long. I now have two sets of new boots that don't fit. One is for 60's BSA singles, brand new from DomiRacer...anyone want them for $10 plus shipping? Also have a set of new late model dirt bike boots, big on both ends, long, black. $10 plus shipping.
Thank you for your cooperation.
JohnnyB
 

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I dont have any stinking fork boots, but I did try to look at CDR web site the other day to check on the 175 stuff and a search wouldn't find you so please can I have your web site addresss again so I can break my dick off in someone else's bum.

s
 

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jb,

call/email purshock at cosmo. he's got 'em.

tex
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Tex I'll give that a try.

Scott.

The easy address to remember is jrbranson.com
Click on the link in the upper right corner to go the bike area, you'll see the Clever Dog page and a link to the CB175 area.

When I break my dick off it wiggles for an hour like a snake with no head.
JohnnyB
 

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but when i go to you r home page there is nothing in the upper right corner and then i click on the clever dog racing i get the picture of mary with the blue bike and all the other bike info but there is nothing about 175s?? is it because i am on a mac?

just send me the link again to the 175 parts for sale or tell me what i am doing wrong?

thanks

scott
 

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the parts page is hidden. i always have to go back and dig it out from the skulls list r something like that. its posted here too someplace.

jc
 

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thanks, but I thought you stated that the new ignition stuff was on the page?

s
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Engine section --->>> ignition

What are you on a Mac or something? If you are in the CB175 section, then the "engine" section and you don't see a menu for "exhaust", "Pistons" and "Ignition" then something is caching your web pages and not showing you updated stuff.
JohnnyB


PS. Direct link to the page is:
http://www.jrbranson.com/HondaRacer/CB175/Ignition.htm

But that's the wrong way to get there, you should go through the menu's cause the page name may change eventually.


Edited by - jbranson on Jul 23 2005 2:29:54 PM
 

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im not a retard, i just thought the stuff would be on the main "stuff for sale for 175cc" page.

PS I went to change the dino oil today so I fired up the 175 and it was making that noise that Lou said was a bad exhaust leak but I had shorts on and could feel air blowing at my leg and sure enuf it was coming from the head gasket so I retorqued the head and bingo it went away severral nuts were on the "loose" side and now I hope that is done, which means i do not have to screw with the exhaust fittings. No, I didn't re-torque after the second time but they must have gained some or I am doing a Hiroshi.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Don't want to sound like a pesismist(sp)...but it's probably going to blow again. Just a few laps around the track is enough for the blow by to carve a groove in the gasket.
Only time I've ever seen a properly torqued 175 head gasket go is with a copper gasket. If it was anything close to OEM quality gasket, and the head was torqued, and it blew...that points to problem with the mating surface somewhere. These things just don't make enough cylinder pressure to blow proper gaskets. I've run the cheapo gasket kit type and never had a problem with them.
Scott...just exactly what is the engine setup on your 175 now? Vert head? What kind of pistons? Cam, gasket thickness etc.
The reason I ask is that several of you guys running 175's seem to have had some unusual problems. The engine I built for Mary's bike which seems to be very similar to what some of your are running seems relatively bullet proof.
Check the frame for cracks if you can...any problems with the chassis at the neck or rear engine mount area can put a lot of stress on the head bolts. Use all the knock pins in the head/cylinder surface.

Hate to put doubt in your mind...but I'd be very likely to replace that head gasket. It will stuck to cart the bike to race and have it blow again. When you finalize mods go with a Cometic gasket, they are excellent and just won't leak or blow.

Another thing to look for is squish...if you are running something like a sloper head and cheeses 3mm over pistons you might have run the pistons into the head and stretched the bolts some.

Where'd it blow out?
JohnnyB
 

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its a sloper head with your pistones and a stock cam plain stock oversized (200)cc head gasket. I'll change the oil, bring it to the track on Wed and see how it goes. Squish is tight, it may be that I need a little more room. Don't worry (behappy) like all other things it'll be OK. We have plenty of time before Sept. 5.

PS I like your back yard.

The other head gasket issue which is solved was on my 350.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Are you aware that my pistons are made to fit a vert head?

There are differences in the vert and sloper head in the combustion chamber. I bet the piston is hitting the head somewhere. Probably the same reason Aaron had problems with his sloper head engine. Squish any smaller than about .030" stands a chance of causing problems. You don't want to trash that set of pistons. If you need more squish clearance you can add a base gasket or two. Or a thicker head gasket.

Vert heads are an instant couple of hp on most engines.

Seriously.... I'd think hard about running it. Next step is it breaks off the top ring land. Which would really piss you off. Think race engine....when something leaks or blows..there's a reason for it.
JohnnyB
 

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Can you be more specific about where the differences in the heads are for those pistones? In other words, if I take the head off,and there is nothing "unusual", where would be the place to examine more closely, ie around plug, around exhaust valve, etc.

thanks
didn't know there was any difference, at least it was never implied.

s
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The pistons are based on a cast taken of a vert chamber. I've never worked with a sloper head, so I'm not familiar with the chamber differences, I know Aaron has researched it some. I figured anyone investing in pistons of this nature would be running a vert head...kind of a waste using them on a sloper head.
I'd guess the squish area is the only area where contact might occur, I think the sloper chamber is a bit smaller in diameter where it tapers down to the bore size. Note on a vert head there is a chamfer around the base of the chamber...I think this chamfer is less pronounced on the sloper (if I remember Aaron's info correctly). It's all moot if the engine is assembled with care taken to measure clearances. My notes show acceptable squish to be .040"...so if that's maintained then there shouldn't be problems regardless of the head used....assuming it's never been milled.
These are race parts, made to be installed in race engines, and of course in race engines NOTHING is left to chance. If squish is too small it's a super easy fix...thicker head gasket or additional base gaskets. Take copious notes, record clearances, track changes.

Aaron I think figured that these pistons made quite a bit more compression in a sloper head than a vert head. Could have been one of the reasons he was having issues detonating pistons or melting heads. The sloper head just isn't designed to handle the heat produced in a high compression engine I don't think. Of course a .010" squish would certainly build some more compression...specially locally on top of the ring land...which could have lead to his piston melting problems at Daytona.

Throw the sloper head away, vert heads are a dime a dozen and a stock one breaths as well as a ported sloper head. More finning, better valve seats, better port angles, just a better piece all around.
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Look for any shiny area on piston or head. Where was the gasket puffing? The weakest area in the design (not that it's a weak design) is usually around the front outside studs. Specially the left front outside stud.
If you do see any clearance issues I might have a .059" cometic gasket around somewhere...that's about .010" thicker than stock. If the problem was squish it would probably cure it for the time being. Probably isn't any contact at low rpm or you'd hear it, rod stretch at high rpm is usually the culprit.

Or....it could be a bad gasket, stud or nick in the surface.
JohnnyB
 

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puffing was at the left spark plug area.

What do you index the plug location to? straight up and down?
 

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puffing was at the left spark plug area.

What do you index the plug location to? straight up and down?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Plug ground electrode should point somewhere between 10 and 2 oclock. It definately needs this to avoid clearance problems to the piston and as a bonus it promotes better combustion.
I get little shims from McMaster.
JohnnyB

PS. Make sure that left front outside stud will torque to spec. It's got a screwy setup where it goes into the cases...part of it's thread is interupted by an oil passage so it doesn't engage the case threads as well as the other studs.


Edited by - jbranson on Jul 25 2005 07:36:46 AM
 
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