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Discussion Starter #1
I recently read about someone draining their brakes by sucking the fluid out using 16ft of tube. Does anyone know anything about this, I can't find the post again.

Thanks,

Stattz

Stattz
 

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Nope. Can't think of any benefit of using that method either. Unless you own plastic tube factory, and just want to use up 16 feet of tube.

FR
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Supposedly the benefit was to avoid pumping the brake handle until your arm falls off.


Stattz
 

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Dude, you're talking about pumping fluid through what, 3-4 feet of line? Man up. It'll build character, get you girls, give you a firm handshake...give you stories to tell your grandkids....

FR (using as many periods as I feel like.....)
 

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that was me. and i was bithing about bleeding the brake son my cb550. (i didnt buy the mighty vac. the only thing you can do is spend alot of time pulling that lever if you dont have a mighty vac. if you drain the entire system, it takes alot of lever pulling. alot.


jc
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I spent some time with the brakes today.

The manual says to take an oil can and pump brake fluid into the brake line if there is no sign of life in the brakes. Easier said than done! I filled the line with brake fluid as best I could and then tried the regular bleeding routine. The brakes still have no resistance to movement. When I pump the handle the fluid in the hose on the bleeder valve moves in and out, although there are no visible air bubbles coming from the valve.

Any thoughts? The lack of resistance in the lever makes me wonder if my master cylinder needs rebuilding.

Stattz
 

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fluid should squirt out of the bleeder. enough of a squirt to shoot it about a foot or two from the caliper. it takes alot. im talking maybe an hour or more of pulling that lever. just keep it moving. or go to the local autoparts store and get a mighty vac. its a pain in the ass without one.

jc
 

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Does sound like master cylinder to me but start in the beginning.
its air and only air that is the hydraulike brake pumping task.

Too get the air out !
So either seals are dry and worn and keeo letting are in or your not cycling it and openning the bleeder to get the air out while holding the brake lever in. No myster just "air"

Bleed the master firts ussually speeds things up .If you cannt build pressure up in the Master it needs to be looked at rebuild or replace then you can continue to the caliper and it should be bleed for air or leak down your spokes!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm confused about bleeding the master. Do you just remove the brakeline, fill the reservoir with fluid and then pump the lever like crazy or is there another step? There is no valve on the master to open and close so what needs to be done?

Stattz
 

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you can do it that way. then fill the lines. the problem is, there will still be air at the top. but its a little faster. the thing to remember is the actuator in the master cyl is moving about 1/4" so its going to take alot to push it all of the way through all of those lines and passageways. if you open the master cyl and pull the lever, you should see air bubbles bleeding from one of the holes that picks up the fluid. it will be a tiny tiny bubble. if that bubble is appearing, you still have air in it. the buuble will suck in, then push out and when there is enough air, will float to the top. when the air is gone, you can blast fluid out of the top of the master cyl about 3" then all over the place.

jc
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The brake handle appears to have fluid leaking out around it when I pump a few times. Not good. So I think I'm either going to need a rebuild kit or a new assembly.

Stattz
 
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