Brit guys?????
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I stopped doing restorations years ago but I'll be glad to attempt being somewhat of a useful mammal.
At the very least I can always put you on one or two decrepit and ornery codgers that taught me quite a bit and have forgotten more about them than I'll likely ever know.
How can I be of assistance to you?
At the very least I can always put you on one or two decrepit and ornery codgers that taught me quite a bit and have forgotten more about them than I'll likely ever know.
How can I be of assistance to you?
Where do I begin? First off, the bike is a Silver Jubilee that I got a bit bored with. The bike is all original so i will be taking of pretty much everything so i can put it back to original Jubilee condition if i ever decide to sell, (God forbid). I pretty much need to find a decent a place to look for decent but not Euro priced parts. The main things I am looking for right now is an alloy cafe style tank that will fit the 77 (not sure if any other year will fit decently)and a bum stop double seat. Other mods are going to inclue "M" bars and peg relocators from Norman Hyde.
Modification Questions:
Am I going to need shorter control cables for the "M" bars or will my originals work?
I would like to remove the gauge cluster and replace it with a single tach unit. Is this possible without without ruining the original condition of the bike ie...Clipping wires.
These are just a few questions to get me started. I am sure once i start digging into there is going to be a plethera of questions, like headlight lowering, front end lowering, finding a decent set of used forks (as to not sratch the originals of I do decide to bring the front end down etc......etc.......
Any help, and or styl ideas would be greatly appreciated as I am not much of a fab guy but an original restore and ride guy.
Modification Questions:
Am I going to need shorter control cables for the "M" bars or will my originals work?
I would like to remove the gauge cluster and replace it with a single tach unit. Is this possible without without ruining the original condition of the bike ie...Clipping wires.
These are just a few questions to get me started. I am sure once i start digging into there is going to be a plethera of questions, like headlight lowering, front end lowering, finding a decent set of used forks (as to not sratch the originals of I do decide to bring the front end down etc......etc.......
Any help, and or styl ideas would be greatly appreciated as I am not much of a fab guy but an original restore and ride guy.
will you post pix of the "M" bars and Hyde relocators?
front end lowering........ that's easier than crapping in the well and not nearly as dangerous...... put low on your list of concerns......... unless yours are worn don't worry with replacing them... they can be lowered without compromising them or shortening the tubes/lowerlegs....... consider a telefix though or even a Hyde bridge if Norman makes one
the last Hyde bridge I bought needed work to just fit so I'm a telefix kinda guy
HOWEVER......... if you want to upgrade to a lighter and stronger modern fork........ that's possible but yet another can of worms
if I follow you correctly... you are wanting to cafe your Jubilee and do so in a manner that is bonafide yet will allow you to bolt it back together as a Jubilee........ easy enough
1) Remove the entire wiring harness, air boxes, rectfier/balanced zeners......
a bare bones rewire is very simple and you'll want to go solid state on the rectifier/regulator unit........ very affordable like less than 50 bucks....... much more reliable too
2) Obtain another top triple tree if you think the very common tree is ugly........ it can be un-uglied and easily made to look like it all it ever was meant to do was hold a tach
or you may be interested in seeing one of my late model left foot shift 140's which I put a German headlight bucket on which carries the instrument
I also fabbed my own headlight ears since most of that stuff available is kinda ugly save for the MV copies which I have on another bike as well
I have a tank shop alloy tank I can show you...... you may like it but I don't think I want to part with it
I can also show you another somewhat obscure tank which will bolt right on and may have the look to suit you......
heck, fire me over an email and I'll share some stuff with you that I'm not inclined to post publicly
Feel invited to get my phone number from my bio and ring me anytime........ just don't feel injured if I'm not able to chat long from time to time as my day to day at best is organized chaos. I do my best to call back if I have to cut things short.
but I will be glad to share with you whatever I am able and most of the time I have plenty of time to share and not much of anything to sell.
I'll round up some pix for you directly and post them in this thread.
An interesting aside......... back in the late 80's......... I went with Mr Barnes to the International Auction at the Southfork Ranch in Plano TX......... and we took Silver Jubilee with USA Certificate Number 1 and sold it. It was his bike and had 19,000 miles on it. He bought it new. Very neat trip and I have tons of pix from that auction.
Welcome to CRN........ there are others here with Brit hands on as well...... I know Nardi has built some really admirable rides and there are others as well.
ok some pix......... this is a T140D as I got it....... good intentions but some very poor execution
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anyone that knows me knows I can't abide by any thing like this
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Dresda tank gone and XS tank on........ plumbing and spaghetti gone too
and then I've changed the tank yet again.......
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rough mock up
I'll share more soon
these are cheap and common enough so why not?
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front end lowering........ that's easier than crapping in the well and not nearly as dangerous...... put low on your list of concerns......... unless yours are worn don't worry with replacing them... they can be lowered without compromising them or shortening the tubes/lowerlegs....... consider a telefix though or even a Hyde bridge if Norman makes one
the last Hyde bridge I bought needed work to just fit so I'm a telefix kinda guy
HOWEVER......... if you want to upgrade to a lighter and stronger modern fork........ that's possible but yet another can of worms
if I follow you correctly... you are wanting to cafe your Jubilee and do so in a manner that is bonafide yet will allow you to bolt it back together as a Jubilee........ easy enough
1) Remove the entire wiring harness, air boxes, rectfier/balanced zeners......
a bare bones rewire is very simple and you'll want to go solid state on the rectifier/regulator unit........ very affordable like less than 50 bucks....... much more reliable too
2) Obtain another top triple tree if you think the very common tree is ugly........ it can be un-uglied and easily made to look like it all it ever was meant to do was hold a tach
or you may be interested in seeing one of my late model left foot shift 140's which I put a German headlight bucket on which carries the instrument
I also fabbed my own headlight ears since most of that stuff available is kinda ugly save for the MV copies which I have on another bike as well
I have a tank shop alloy tank I can show you...... you may like it but I don't think I want to part with it
I can also show you another somewhat obscure tank which will bolt right on and may have the look to suit you......
heck, fire me over an email and I'll share some stuff with you that I'm not inclined to post publicly
Feel invited to get my phone number from my bio and ring me anytime........ just don't feel injured if I'm not able to chat long from time to time as my day to day at best is organized chaos. I do my best to call back if I have to cut things short.
but I will be glad to share with you whatever I am able and most of the time I have plenty of time to share and not much of anything to sell.
I'll round up some pix for you directly and post them in this thread.
An interesting aside......... back in the late 80's......... I went with Mr Barnes to the International Auction at the Southfork Ranch in Plano TX......... and we took Silver Jubilee with USA Certificate Number 1 and sold it. It was his bike and had 19,000 miles on it. He bought it new. Very neat trip and I have tons of pix from that auction.
Welcome to CRN........ there are others here with Brit hands on as well...... I know Nardi has built some really admirable rides and there are others as well.
ok some pix......... this is a T140D as I got it....... good intentions but some very poor execution
anyone that knows me knows I can't abide by any thing like this
Dresda tank gone and XS tank on........ plumbing and spaghetti gone too
and then I've changed the tank yet again.......
rough mock up
I'll share more soon
these are cheap and common enough so why not?
Thanks a ton I truly appreciate it. I am very excited to start this project. You hit the nail on the head with "you are wanting to cafe your Jubilee and do so in a manner that is bonafide yet will allow you to bolt it back together as a Jubilee" The only changes I would even consider making to this bike will be bolt on and bolt off cosmetic changes.
The only reason I would add new forks would be that i wouldnt have to worry about scratching the originals sliding them up and down the Triple Clamp until I figure out the stance that i want. (New Forks are really the least of my concerns at this point)
Belwo ar pics of the M bars, just really not a big fan of clip ons. No reason for it, just don't like em'.
Never mind can't figure out how to insert photos at this point.
M bars are identical to clubman bars just another name for them, and the peg relocators are just brackets that move the stock position back and slightly up to accomadate for the more forward riding position that the lower bars produce.
Love the pics, that headlight bucket is perfect! I will be emailing you shortly.
Again, can't wait to get this project started and bring whoever is interested along for the ride. (once I figure out how to post pics of course)
p.s. Where should i start looking for a bum stop seat that will fit?
The only reason I would add new forks would be that i wouldnt have to worry about scratching the originals sliding them up and down the Triple Clamp until I figure out the stance that i want. (New Forks are really the least of my concerns at this point)
Belwo ar pics of the M bars, just really not a big fan of clip ons. No reason for it, just don't like em'.
Never mind can't figure out how to insert photos at this point.
M bars are identical to clubman bars just another name for them, and the peg relocators are just brackets that move the stock position back and slightly up to accomadate for the more forward riding position that the lower bars produce.
Love the pics, that headlight bucket is perfect! I will be emailing you shortly.
Again, can't wait to get this project started and bring whoever is interested along for the ride. (once I figure out how to post pics of course)
p.s. Where should i start looking for a bum stop seat that will fit?
Joined
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838 Posts
Feerlss,
There are a few of us Brit guys lurking here.
A lot can be done to your Bonnie without crossing over to the point of no return. I rebuilt my 79 Special without removing a single mounting tab or welding anything additional to the frame. I could have the bike back to 100% original in a weekend.
The last photo shows a set of M bars fitted to a '65 Thruxton. It's not a terminology thing, they are completely different than Clubmans. M bars are a solid tube bent to shape. Clubmans are usually made from 3 pieces of tubing welded together. M bars will slide through the Triumph factory P clamps. Clubmans will not.
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There are a few of us Brit guys lurking here.
A lot can be done to your Bonnie without crossing over to the point of no return. I rebuilt my 79 Special without removing a single mounting tab or welding anything additional to the frame. I could have the bike back to 100% original in a weekend.
The last photo shows a set of M bars fitted to a '65 Thruxton. It's not a terminology thing, they are completely different than Clubmans. M bars are a solid tube bent to shape. Clubmans are usually made from 3 pieces of tubing welded together. M bars will slide through the Triumph factory P clamps. Clubmans will not.
Thanks for the clarification on the bars Bret. Kind of new to the Cafe thing. Now that I look at those bars, they may be a bit narrow for me. I might have to consider another route. I really need to first find a tank and seat combo that fits without modification to the frame itself. Once i get the tank, i can start to build around that.
to which models do you refer to as "specials" ?
The T140D had them with discs on both ends, the 2 into 1, and the black with gold
which others were "special" ?
dig the dual disc but tell me what you think about those redwings?
I snagged a NOS set of Konis for mine and I can't say I'm all that impressed with them. I dig my Marzocchis much better.
Have you done the needle bearing swingarm conversion on that one?
Brace the down tube to swingarm area?
I'm feeling like mine needs a brace from the seat tube to the rear "subframe"
Did you see the one the guys in Texas did for Dave Edwards? It really made me want to derake mine.
btw for whomever asked (on a pda that thinks its a laptop)..... the Lesters ARE sweet but they need about 5 pounds of excess skimmed off them and they are totally useless until they have been converted to run tubeless
The T140D had them with discs on both ends, the 2 into 1, and the black with gold
which others were "special" ?
dig the dual disc but tell me what you think about those redwings?
I snagged a NOS set of Konis for mine and I can't say I'm all that impressed with them. I dig my Marzocchis much better.
Have you done the needle bearing swingarm conversion on that one?
Brace the down tube to swingarm area?
I'm feeling like mine needs a brace from the seat tube to the rear "subframe"
Did you see the one the guys in Texas did for Dave Edwards? It really made me want to derake mine.
btw for whomever asked (on a pda that thinks its a laptop)..... the Lesters ARE sweet but they need about 5 pounds of excess skimmed off them and they are totally useless until they have been converted to run tubeless
Joined
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838 Posts
Hack,
By Specials I meant the '79-80 T140D's, which is what my bike is (was) before I rebuilt it into what you see above. Here we are in 1987, a couple years after I bought it from the original owner. In this photo I had just swapped out the 2 into 1 for a set of 1 3/4" 650 pipes and BUB Conti replicas. I'd also swapped the short front fender for an earlier long type. The long fender didn't look as cool, but at the time it was my only form of transport and I lived in Seattle.
The twin discs are bitchen. I skimmed away the chrome and cross drilled them. One finger operation. Two in a panic.
The Redwings are fine. Not great, but decent for what they are. Can't expect much for 1970's NOS. Worth the money for the looks alone though.
The frame is 100% original. No gussets or extra tubing. No tabs removed or other conversions. Being a Special I didn't want to do anything I might regret later. Original Specials have consistently risen in value and I wanted the choice to go back to 100% stock. I doubt I ever will, but still, the choice is there.
Years ago I rode a Big 'D' built roadracer that had been gusseted and deraked. It was an awesome handling machine that I would loved to have owned. You don't notice the noodleness of a stock OIF chassis until you ride something like that. I'm building another pair of Bonnie's at the moment and I've already talked to Karsten at FrameCrafters about giving at least one them the same treatment.
You're right about the Lesters being waaay too heavy. But when I bought the bike I was 19 and thought the mags were the coolest thing about it. Personal nostalgia is my only defense.
All the tire guys I've talked to have told me that the Lesters don't have enough wheel lip to properly grab the bead of a tubeless tire. Tell me about the conversion you mentioned.
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By Specials I meant the '79-80 T140D's, which is what my bike is (was) before I rebuilt it into what you see above. Here we are in 1987, a couple years after I bought it from the original owner. In this photo I had just swapped out the 2 into 1 for a set of 1 3/4" 650 pipes and BUB Conti replicas. I'd also swapped the short front fender for an earlier long type. The long fender didn't look as cool, but at the time it was my only form of transport and I lived in Seattle.
The twin discs are bitchen. I skimmed away the chrome and cross drilled them. One finger operation. Two in a panic.
The Redwings are fine. Not great, but decent for what they are. Can't expect much for 1970's NOS. Worth the money for the looks alone though.
The frame is 100% original. No gussets or extra tubing. No tabs removed or other conversions. Being a Special I didn't want to do anything I might regret later. Original Specials have consistently risen in value and I wanted the choice to go back to 100% stock. I doubt I ever will, but still, the choice is there.
Years ago I rode a Big 'D' built roadracer that had been gusseted and deraked. It was an awesome handling machine that I would loved to have owned. You don't notice the noodleness of a stock OIF chassis until you ride something like that. I'm building another pair of Bonnie's at the moment and I've already talked to Karsten at FrameCrafters about giving at least one them the same treatment.
You're right about the Lesters being waaay too heavy. But when I bought the bike I was 19 and thought the mags were the coolest thing about it. Personal nostalgia is my only defense.
All the tire guys I've talked to have told me that the Lesters don't have enough wheel lip to properly grab the bead of a tubeless tire. Tell me about the conversion you mentioned.
they don't have enough "lip" to do it to any acceptable engineering standards but it is something I have done to many mag wheels on my own personal rides..... Guzzis, BMW's, and several others
this simple..... counter bore the valve stem hole and screw in a tubeless valve stem
this simple..... counter bore the valve stem hole and screw in a tubeless valve stem
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