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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi just registered, I am half way through but this is my first cafe racer so any advice is welcome.
Here are some photos to kick things off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
did you get it running again?
Not quite running yet. the reg/rec blew taking out the cdi, battery(li-ion), gauge cluster and headlight as well.(hope all else is ok) got a used cdi suzi wanted over $800. get reg/rec and still have the std battery so once the battery tray is finished(nearly there, this week I hope) fingers crossed it fires up. Then saving some money for a aftermarket gauge cluster and headlight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What welder and what wire are you using?
.9mm gassless wire with my handyman mig. I admit I have been struggling the metal came from my old dishwasher and is about .7mm thick.
Thanks for the advice I will get som anti splater spray
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
its been slow going but time for a update.
1st the engine is running again so the gumtree used cdi worked.
The wiring looms have been rerun to fit the new rear
the rear end is ready for sand blasting then I will be epoxy priming it, and I will get some 2 pack paint to match the oem frame colour.
The new lithium battery fits just.
I have started work on a single throttle body manifold which is just a experiment, the 42mm tb flows 450cfm and is a vintage mechanical setup (who knows how it will end up, I just can't help myself)

Anyway here's some pics
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Holes weigh nothing remember and as long as structural integrity of a component is not compromised is free power to weigh ratio gain , it as become a obsession with me and along with reducing overall gearing, good things can happen often at zero or low cost.

Thanks gravel rash I am pleased you like the path it is taking, a 520 spocket conversion is down the track when the budget allows. the rear end has allready lost a lot of weight but it's hard to shed the kilo's on the front.
I am fitting a after market gauge set since the old one burntout.
cuting down the oem front gaurd
changing the duell brake lines
smaller head light and indicators
and will try my lighter single throttle body once the rest is done and will keep it if over all performance is the same or better

Gearing I'm not to sure on at the moment. I read the nake sv650 with 1 extra rear tooth is quicker to 130km then areodynamics kick in and the S with fairings gets the advantagem
I'm going naked and light. I was thinking if the s has 44, naked 45, my cafe racer 46 so as not to give the fairings the edge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I bought a smaller head light for my cafe racer SV650
It arrived today but the good thing I found was the h4 spare globe I had fitted straight in so I didn't have to change wiring.
There are no locating groves for the H4 so you just need to face it the same way as the original headlight and cut a bigger hole in the dust cover
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Just got my chinese gauge set, I have done my homework and don't really predict any deal breaking problems.
My goal is to get all functions working even things a bit tricky for my model including gear indicator and fuel gauge and use the standard speed sensor.
The only strange thing will be the engine warning light will be repurposed as a oil pressure warning (the chinese must not care about a oil light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I the sv 650 cafe project has been waiting but today I have made some steps toward getting the frontend the way I want it.
rubbers on the fork tubes, twin brake lines to front calipers, cut up a drag bar to made more adjustable clip ons (the clip on bracket .had a 7 deg angle now rotating the bars gives huge adjustment)
then i decided to chop the front fender.
All being well I should get it finished tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Getting there

All seems good. been doing some test rides. Althought the the preloads had been set for static sag before the rear frame was changed. Due to bike weight lose I had to reduce rear preload by 2 full turns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Having been there, I'll bet eventually you'll hit a bump that will make that rear tire contact the rear fender. Remember the rear tire will extend a little as it compresses.
Nice looking bike, though! I'd ride it!
It has 4 1/2 inches of travel and a fully adjustable shock and a spring slightly harder than stock that seems to match my weight requirments. I havn't adjusted the bump rubber height yet. I know i should and I will, but my plan was to play with compressiion damping if it's getting to close to the fender at the monment it's only on 1 click and it feels well matched to the front, with no sign of hitting yet.
Fingers crossed. Thanks for your feedback it is all wellcome
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Compression dampening is a function of shock absorption (resistance to change)
it is the spring that carries the weight and determines the ride height of the motorcycle.

You won't be adjusting ride height and fender clearances by adjusting the shock absorber dampening settings, she don't work that way.
The spring rate is spot on with correct sag both static and loaded. in that situation if the wheel is traveling to much on bumps the compression damping fine tunes that travel.
So I was not suggesting this would change ride height or static fender clearance. That would be silly. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The bike has a linkage on the rear suspension,
that makes adjusting the swingarm position super cheap and easy with no actual change to the shock or spring.

... I have no idea how one could know it is correct without riding it to see if it actually rides like a pogo-stick or follows the road bumps well, ymmv.
best luck with your project :cool:
To check sping rate at the rear for a given application. with the rear wheel off the ground get a vertical measurment to a frame datum. the with someome holding the bike up with wheels on level ground remeasure and adjust preload so the sag from the full drop measurment is 1cm less, then still with help holding the bike get on with full gear in riding position and remeasure. if that measurment drops a futher 35mm +- 5mm the spring rate is suitable for performance street use. if it sags too much it is too soft and not enough too hard. on the front I normally go 25 bike sag and further 25 with rider and tune to taste fiddling with preload.
pogoing is normaly a result of mismatched damping front/rear.
Changing dogbone length raises or lowers the back with only small impack on spring rate from altered geometry and none on damping.
It is a bit like cooking different cheffs have their own reciepes
I would like to hear reciepes others use when setting up. it all helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Your free sag numbers are off....
True I agree I knew I had made that error straight after submitting it but it was 1AM and too late to bother changing it. On the bright side it did open up discussion.
it sounds like we are starting to speak the same lingo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
No problems, it has min 100mm travel before the bump rubber, the shock is 330 mm instead 338 mm which lowered the frame approx 24mm and the custom rear frame lowered the seat, but the tray is on top of the frame and bowed up so thats an extra 20mm clearance. I was unsure if I would need put a spacer under the bump rubber but not even the rear fender (added for legality) has scraped. The static sag is 10mm and total sag is 35mm, spring rate i think was 510lb not much harder than the stock spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
P.S. performance is the goal if it proved a limitation I wound raise the seat frame. I have done about 600km on it pushing harder all the time and some has been on some terrible roads, fingers crossed no rubbing yet and I have kept the rubber side down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Yes,
103258
The 8mm shorter shock (I could not find a standard length fully adjustable shock I could afford) stole about 24-25mm But I am revisiting the standard dog bones I am running. If I run shorter dog bones I can regain the standard swing arm angle although the travel will not change.
However I am uncertain if the side effect of reducing head angle another 1 deg will be too much (that would be a total reduction of 2 1/4 deg from standard)
 
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