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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
I made a heater from some resistors and fitted it to a test pipe with silicon tape.
Result heater quickly heated to 40 deg C and was47 after 10 minutes the pipe temp increased 3 deg C after 10mins.
So 15 Minutes Should work well on my Intake.
Now I need sort how to fit it neatly to the Bike and turn in on and off without Ignition on.

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Got a Colortune today, it is magic.
I only used it on the rear cylinder the front is too awkward.
Its a spark plug with a window so you can see the colour of the combustion and check the mixture.
I put it on and idle was correct (not surprising there is a air corrector to get idle correct) from idle to 5000 was rich then from 5000 up was good all checked free revving on a stand.
So I adjusted the higher revs to be richer and then leaned the whole range to be correct.
Its such a good feeling when You can see the combustion colour as you build revs and it is all good.
The bike had been running well but I knew it needed tweaking and the Color tune made it so easy. Adjustment took only 15 minutes.

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
I was trying to source advice from the man that had the world patent (except us) and was the only legitimate manufacturer outside the U.S. Bob Henderson in Scotland.
I was saying, once I have this sorted best I can, I would like to try dual fish on the sv,
This is a extract of the relevant part of his reply,, Just thought I would share it as it may shed some light on why I am starting with the single throttle body.

"As to using "twins" there would have to be a VERY exceptional reason for doing so!
Rememer all our racing car successes and Championshiups were always on a "single".(from Nurberg Ring to Le Mans)
Most of the conventional reasons for using "twins" do not usually apply when using the "Fish" principle. Including some very awkward aero "set ups"."
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
Since using my colortune and getting the mixture nice, I am more confident to ride some distance.
I have bought myself an action camera and chest mount the only down sides are the camera won't mount without the waterproof case so sound be be muffled, I have never used one before and don't know how to edit the footage.
All being well I will try it this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Honda tank cut to match the Suzuki SV frame. Now the decision to remove my functioning tank drain it and cut it in half to mate the Honda tank to the top of my tank. Or make a bottom section from scratch to clear the air filter and fit the fuel gauge and pent ****, sounds easy but I've done tis stuff before and it's not that easy.

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What about using that as a cover for an aluminum or plastic fuel cell? The cell can be boxy/inelegant and that top half can make it look nice
 
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You could send the tank to Matt at Tannermatic. He can make a mould. I would get a spare tank to chop up and use the tunnel as the base for the fuel cell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #154 ·
I have decided to manufacture a new lower half. I ripped the tank off and sat the Honda tank in place to give myself an idea where I am going.
Did a quick walk around of the bike to try my camera and post a video (first attempt ever)

SV 650.... Cafe Racer.... Single Throttle Body
Hope it works.
And some picks It's got the right look just need to slit it to make the rear a bit wider to match the seat.
Suggestions are always welcome.
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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
Just picked up some 6mm steal rod which I will use to make a skeleton for the base. Thinking of sliding the tank back 40mm if the lines look right and the hinge works, that will make the new design that is much simpler.
If I fit the air cleaner sideways, from the air cleaner forward will be air box and the rear all fuel. Makes for an easer build and probably more fuel capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Last change for others to add input......
I think this will be the final tank position. I need to skirt around the bottom to increase the tank height approx. 2" down to the tank parameter hoop and shape to tank around the seat as a nice custom detail.
I spit the rear to make it a bit wider and the expected skirt height measurements (mm) are written on the take at a few points.
Next is make the base of the tank.
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I like how you split the tank to match at the seat rail. As far as the tank goes, it is sloping down towards the bars more now correct? I personally think the pic in post #154 looks better. Purely for aesthetics I would either have the tank flat to match the seat or slopes up to compliment the frame tubing.
 
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