Well; and I'm trying not to be a know-it-all but as you have said you are learning and folks on this forum are swapping front-ends back and forth at a prodigious rate. I'll risk me being called out and say that the forks sticking out above the top yoke does not really make the bike pop wheelies. This is because the length of the fork is part of the equation.How does having fork tubes extend past the top clamp effect the propensity for wheelies? [Full disclosure: every wheelie I've done in my life was unintentional, on road or off.]
A very simplistic way to view this is where the wheels touch the ground are like the pans on a beam scale. If each pan had the same amount of weight then the beam would be level. Half way between each pan would be the bikes balance point. Now if you add weight to either end (either dynamically or statically) you change the angle of the beam and the end opposite where you added the weight will be easier to lift (pop a wheelie/do a stoppie) so you lower the front in the triples (slide the fork tubes up in the clamps) then the motorbike turns more easily (here I do not mean it takes less muscle; I do mean it will often turn-in quicker) , will do stoppies but will often tuck the front. Raise the the bike in the yokes and you put the weight on the rear. Here you tend to loose front bite (thus making it harder to turn, here again we're not talking muscle what you often get here is a motorbike that will run wide on exiting the turn ) but you can pop great wheelies.
How far the forks are proud of the top yoke is only relevant to that pile of parts. The length of the fork from end to end and what the length of the forks that the designer was working with when he first laid out the motorbikes geometry are what is important.
I tell you all this because when one looks at a picture of a bike such as yours (exactly what I did when I made my comment) it's easy to see all that fork tube sticking up and think that thing has no weight on the rear and the rider will be doing burn-outs at every corner. The inverse can also be true raise the yokes up to the top of the tubes and you move all the weight towards the rear. Good traction and great wheelies.
The thing is, because I have no idea how long the forks that came on your bike from the factory were. How far they stick out of the top yoke in your photo has little bearing on how the bike handles. I said they were out quite a bit because that was relevant to what handlebars you could use as the tubes could be in the way of the mounting for the bars.
The fun part of all this is that you have uncovered one of the main aspects of motorbike set-up. RAKE ! If the bike doesn't want to turn or turns too quickly you go back to our balance beam. Lift the rear or lower the front and you put more weight in the "front pan". Drop the rear or lraise the front and you put more weight in the "rear pan". So you can see that if the motorbike is spinning the rear wheel coming off the turns you change the rake one way. If it's going to pop wheelies at the drop of a hat then you can go the other way.
Now remember this is all about degrees of change and with modern suspensions there are a plethora of changes that one can make. Some can be done with the adjusters on the suspension or locating and rake changes others must be done by dissembling the shock/forks and changing the internals.
If you are at all interested in this aspect of building then you need to expand your motorbike library my suggestions are books on set-up by; Lee Parks; Total Control. Andrew Trevitt; Sportbike Suspension Tinning. These tend to be my go-to references if I feel myself starting down a dark handling rabbit hole .
One last recommendation is the Dave Moss motorbike site davemosstunning.com. Here he deals with everything from weather and how it pertains to set-up to riding gear. He will also answer your questions if you e-mail him. Well worth a look-see.