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Discussion Starter #561 (Edited)
I completed the chain guard. It's a bit chunky and rather boxy looking, but not hideous. It's on there solidly and should be fairly effective.

I constructed it out of 22 gauge sheet steel, backed up with 16 ga. reinforcement brackets underneath. This allowed me to keep the overall weight down, and do most of the bending with my tiny HF bench-top brake (which struggles with 16 ga.) while still being reasonably sturdy. The brackets are are pop-riveted at the top and the mounting screws pass through both layers of metal.

Fitting it up was complicated by the rear mounting boss on the swingarm; it's neither in plane with the swingarm, nor perpendicular to the vehicle centerline. I initially tried to make neat, calculated creases in the mounting arm, but as you can see I ended up having to bend it by hand and pound it with a rubber mallet to get everything lined up properly.

It turned out a bit wider than it has to be, but I'm okay with that. You can see a slight torsional tweak towards the front. I think I might need to slot the hole for the inboard mounting screw to lower that side slightly. Overall, it's not a thing of beauty, but it doesn't suck too badly either.
 

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Discussion Starter #562
My re-pop Norton Proddie seat base came today. I set it on the bike and the proportions are just excellent. Unfortunately, my initial excitement turned to disappointment when I realized that the seat is nowhere near symmetrical. Looking down the centerline of the bike, it's about as straight as a one-legged drunk with no cane. I must say I'm surprised, as the Reed Titan seat I'd previously gotten from Airtech was perfect. This one is also much thinner, with numerous imperfections and very skimpy gelcoat. They must've had the new kid do this one. I am confident I can make it work, but it will take extra work. I do think the shape of this design is perfect for the bike; I'll post photos once I get it bolted down with the warpage corrected. But after $170 (incl. shipping) and nearly 7 weeks of waiting, I can't say I'm completely thrilled.
 

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Discussion Starter #563
Thanks to purchase of a dimple die and a bead roller, chain guide 2.0 is turning out much better.

The dimple die is pretty foolproof. There's a definite learning curve to the bead roller, but a few practice runs and a couple of YouTube tutorials helped me get a feel for it.

I bought Eastwood's smallest, cheapest roller for about $100 or so. It's really robust, but fairly crude. It works okay with the bead dies, but there is no positive indexing to prevent the offset flange dies from shifting due to side loads. It's all held in alignment by friction of one 5mm set screw. Fine for my immediate need, I guess.

I have a smaller (1/2") dimple die on the way for more speed holes. And I might try my hand at making an intermediate size on the lathe.
 

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Discussion Starter #564
Well, that took an unanticipated amount of effort. I finished up the chain guard. It ended up straight and square and surprisingly sturdy, so I am pleased.

I had toyed with the idea of making an intermediate diameter flairing die, but when I realized the holes would mostly be hidden by the rear shock, I decided to just use the half-inch die that I had.
 

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Discussion Starter #566
You ever want that welded up, mail it to me.
Thanks. Using Pop rivets made disassembling and reusing the brackets with the new sheet metal much easier (which, as usual for me, turned out to be necessary). They’re fine until such time as 1) the bike is running, and 2) these rivets become the ugliest thing on the bike. Alternatively, it could be an opportunity to try my hand at MIG brazing it, but frankly, it’s good enough. I’m trying to avoid getting bogged down in the small stuff. I need to be getting on to the engine rebuild.
 

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im out of my depth here but ive seen bracketry attached to sheet metal by ordinary silver soldering.

im repairing a 1960s triumph sidecover that has missing brackets and ill give it a try
 
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