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This brings me back to root cause analysis. WHY did it lunch the bearing. I may be looking at oil pump failure (I know from research there is an updated drive gear floating around that should be retrofitted whenever the pump is dropped). Over on badweatherbikers, i saw some references of possibly beating the rod bearing to death through excessively lugging in fifth gear and/or from detonation. Then there is the fact that the scavenge side of the pump had to pump some of the garbage back to the tank. Smells like a moneypit!
We had a TL1000R in the shop I worked in many years ago that had lunched a big end - apparently the guy used to do really long wheelies down the old road to the airport and eventually starved the big end of oil. Not sure if the HD motors would suffer the same fate being dry sump, but it's food for thought.
 

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Dude starved a big end by popping a long mono? Did he travel for 15 miles like that? Jesus!

Anywho. Raven. Unless you have the time, don't bother. Honest. Find another buell donk from a wrecked bike. Save yourself the time and money. It's all fine to have a project, but just putting out the other option to save you a shitload of problems. I hate getting something in parts, torn down from someone elses mistakes unless I'm going to rebuild and replace everything.

Wish I had a Buell though.
 

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Dude starved a big end by popping a long mono? Did he travel for 15 miles like that? Jesus!
It's a pretty long road out to the airport here.

Also, now that I remember it a bit more, when the TL is on it's back wheel the back cam cover fills with oil which helps to starves the sump. In it's normal "non upright" position the oil drains back down through the camchain tunnel quite quickly, so that probably had a bit to do with it. Or might have just been bad luck.
 

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Nope, it's really common on TL and SV motors, mainly because they are so easy to wheelie
The SV 650 will do about 4~6 miles on one wheel almost every day for about a month before crank fails (so I've heard)
It used to be $800 for new crank and rods
When crank is stripped it will be easy to see if it was oil pump failure or over revving, the crank pin wear is always obvious on HD based motors
 

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It's a pretty long road out to the airport here.

Also, now that I remember it a bit more, when the TL is on it's back wheel the back cam cover fills with oil which helps to starves the sump. In it's normal "non upright" position the oil drains back down through the camchain tunnel quite quickly, so that probably had a bit to do with it. Or might have just been bad luck.
Interemeresting. On a side note, I really loved the TL. Too bad about that shocking rotatry shock thingy on the rear there. My buddy had an S, then an R. The S was just an animal.
 

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There wasn't anything actually wrong with the rotary shock, Cycle World was 'testing' at a race track trying to get it to overheat.
They managed it with relay of riders
AFAIK Suzuki used a silicon based 'suspension fluid' that was mostly unaffected by heat but it would 'fade' after 4~6 hrs on track
After that, everyone who crashed blamed it on the shock even though in majority of cases it was due to 'rider error' swapping from inline 4 to big V-twin. (I have some experience of the 'squids' who bought TL but really wanted 916 Duc)
The amount of engine braking will easily lock rear wheel if you change down twice instead of once on entrance to a corner
NASCAR use rotary shocks (although they are $2K+ each)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well I bought the moneypit today. I was actually ecstatic about the condition of everything. New rods, aftermarket ignition, like a 42 or 44mm flatslide mikuni. I also got the DDFI with race ecu and all the bits. tires only have around 800 miles on them. Has been inside its entire life. Everything packaged up and in great shape. Crank needs assembly.

More questions:
On the primary side bearing, if I order the full set with spacer shim and bearings and races will I also require a shim set to set my crank endplay?
On the pinion side bearing, if identify what color it is now, can i replace it with that color or should I start from scratch and check everything over there per the manual?

The bearings do not look damaged but I think the cost of replacements might be cheap insurance after the rod bearing grenaded. During my not under a magnifying glass inspection there didnt appear to be any pitting or flat rollers. It just feels wrong to put it back together with old bearings.

Any pitfalls to building the crank? it looks like it is torque the keyed side of the pin down, put it in the vblocks and dial indicate until true and finish torquing the nonkeyed side. Recheck and rock and roll.

Case is sealed with threebond/yamabond from my research. Correct?

Trans bearings all feel good with no grittiness. I guess I am gonna give building this one a whirl. Pistons are a little scuffed on the skirts but not too bad. Given the ease of pulling the top end, I think I will go with fresh rings. Previous owner said the top end had been freshened prior to the blowup.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I can also true the crank between centers on the lathe as well.
 

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I used to do a lot of fully bolted up HD cranks
It's a good idea to put flywheel half between canters and check mainshafts are not bent before you start re-assembly (no point building a crank with bent mainshafts_
Use a new woodruff key, check all the tapers are perfectly clean and there are no burrs on on edges or edge of keyway
As you said, torque pin into keyed side (timing side) and check the oil way is clear
There is a fixture to hold flywheels, makes life easier but not essiential
You will need a holder to keep them more or less inline (90 degrees to pin)
It's basically a couple of pieces of angle iron and some 1/2' allthread, simple enough to make and will make life a lot easier torquing second wheel onto crankpin
I'll see if I have any pics of the stuff, pretty sure I no longer have the HD crank re-build video
It's recommended to put crank between centers, remember you can only true the non keyed side
 

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Discussion Starter #30
It seems alot easier than truing 2 stroke twin cranks. I have the service manual for the X1 but experience typically trumps manual. And caferacer.net experience trumps pretty much any manual anywhere. :D


I think i already have angle iron and all thread in the shop. Worst thing right now seems to be whatever may need fixing on the pinion side bearing. More reading seems to indicate this is gonna be a Starrett moment lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I have been using Permatex #3 aviation sealant for case halves on other four strokes. I have been using threebond/yamabond for 2 stroke case halves. Is either more applicable to this thing? I like the permatex brush applicator and general product for four strokes. But I have read the threebond stuff is slightly better for 2 stroke cases where fuel will come in contact with the joint and its pretty much what was used factory on the engines I have been building lately.
 

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I've only ever used the Threebond / Yamabond stuff - no idea about the Permatex stuff, but it's probably OK to use either.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I havr permatex in the shop already so I will probably go with that. Good news tonight... both pinion side races survived with no pitting and no visible wear. A couple of the rollers on the bearing have rust on them. I will probably setup from scratch using the method and chart from the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well. I am temporarily thwarted. My 1-2" Starrett only has .001 graduations and I need .0001 for the pinion bearing setup. On a positive note I am getting a new micrometer!
 

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
Haven't found a decent micrometer yet. been lurking on ebay and craigslist for a deal though. Monday its case half and crank half off to a friend's shop that has these sorts of tools for measurement. I just don't have time to waste on waiting for a micrometer. (edit: well i am not that impulsive....its just i am pretty sure he has intrimikes which will be far better than anything i can afford to buy on my own to measure the case race lol) I may have found the root cause of the failure. The return and feed oil lines are both hard and almost crumbly down by the where they go onto the pump. Also the pressure side hose is mushy and swollen.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well...I am now armed with the latest (in my toolbox) in vintage Brown and Sharpe micrometer technology. Also picked up a couple of Scherr Tumicos in my ebay acquisition mode. Pics to follow :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #37
After fussing with the telescopng gauge and averaging together about thirty measurements on the outer race I finally settled on a measurement. 1.5650 inches. It may be at 1.5651 but that is within the "3" tolerance which jives with the "3" stamped in the case. The crank race is definitely at 1.2500. Checked micrometer calibration multiple times, and it is dead on. According to the service manual this puts me straddling the road between the blue and the white-grey bearing. Blue would setup a bit tighter, white-grey would be the looser of the two. I am thinking of going with the blue one given the case was stamped "3", and blue would be what the factory fitted. Advice?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Finally got off my arse and got bearings and gaskets coming in the mail from Hammer Performance. Great guys to work with.

Current engine setup will be K1701 pistons, 45mm flatslide hsr mikuni, fairly open muffler (I am looking for a peforated tube and packing which will work to quieten it, the current setup is a gutted can), ultima ignition (its their rebranded dyna 2ki), the -2B oil pump (larger scavenge section), OEM rods (bought by previous owner), stock X1 cams (roughly equivalent to N4s), mildly ported heads (already done, i am just disassembling and relapping for that feel good feeling). New main bearings. I plan on going back to fuel injection in the future but this will require a new harness as the injection part of my current one has been hacked up.

Anyone know where i should begin on jetting the Mikuni? I haven't opened it up to see whats in there, but judging from the pistons that came out it may have been running somewhat rich.

And I still havent snapped any pics. Been working on this ten minutes here, ten minutes there. I did score a free quart of mobil 1 v-twin 20w-50 for the primary/trans hole. Any little bit helps...
 

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Cool stuff, glad to see it's 'coming along'
You'll need to know whats in there first before we can give any 'advice'
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I figured as much. I am gonna assume it is atleast close enough to run because it blew up with the carb on it and it didnt hole a piston :cool:
 
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