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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I am thinking about making new engine to frame mounts by using the 5 or 6 bolts that go in the rocker covers at the front of the the front cam cover and the rear of the rear cam cover.... I am thinking about welding aluminium rods to each of those holes and milling the tops level, drilling them out, then having a plate that mounts to those and has the mounts that come up to either side of the four inch round main frame spine. Means I can have the mounts spaced 4 inches apart for less side to side (engine swinging under the frame) movement.
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Phase one is almost over... buying a lot of parts! Phase two as just started the build day one, photo one!
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
This is my mock up engine, a 2004 92 Freedom that I bought in parts after it ran out of oil... so I put it loosely together today for the mock up. Crank but no rods or pistons etc....
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
After a a bit of googling Victory ground clearance I got 120mm 147, 148 126 and 135... so that gives me something to work with and from.... I will probably end up putting the engine higher to get better cornering clearance on the left.... but it depends a bit on the chainline of course.

I ordered the 3 inch by 1.6mm steel tube for the head stock and the 4 inch by 1.6mm tuber for the main frame spine tonight... should have that tomorrow or the day after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Based on the measurements of the engine ground clearance I make a stand 7 inches or roughly 178mm figuring I can always put things under the tyres if I need to reduce that clearance.... also worked on the triple clamps a bit. I have 1988 BMW K100 Brembo forks. The top triple clamp was no good to me as it had huge holes in it for rubber mounting the bars... to big to safely weld I thought, so I bought a second lower triple clamp and I am modifying it to be a top clamp. I have milled it thinner from the top and now I am shaping it to match the more rounded lower one. Lots of time with the files and sandpaper
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Metal arrived and I tried out my new tool.. the digital angle thingee! Then cut a bit and attempted to true up the ends in the lathe, but the damn thing came out of the jaws as I didn't want to bend it... so it ended up bent... I have HEAPS more to cut another length tomorrow and true that bit more carefully. And I have started to rough out the metal for the bearing carrier/end caps for the steering stem tube... last shot is the tube still to long and bent but very roughly at the right angle and position. 27 degrees of fork angle.... the BMW forks were 27.5 degrees and 101mm of trail with an 18 inch wheel so I am 27 degrees with a 19 inch wheel so I should be ending up with between 101 and 107mm trail.
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So that's the end of the catch up posts we are now back to real time. That top tube will most likely end up scalloped underneath to get the frame down lower over the engine. But I have LOTS of frame working out to do yet. Still in mock up stage for sure. I want to get my wheels built so I can set the whole front and back ends up to see how things need to work.
 

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amazing work.

The droop on the old egli tanks is really interesting. I've really only followed their japanese stuff, so its neat seeing projects based on the OG egli bikes.
 

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I am really looking forward to watching this come together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
the later bmw 4 piston calipers from r1100, etc, have the 08 mounting pattern if that helps.
I did not know that, thanks for the info. :) I have looked into it but it looks like they were to fit 305mm discs on the K1100 and I have 320mm cast iron Brembo discs from a Ducati Paso coming so I would have to make an adapter anyway so I might as well use the Lockheed calipers that I have already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I machined and fitted the upper and lower bearing holders/ steering tube end caps..... and assembled the stem.
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
After a LOT of grinding, measuring and filling I have the main tube shaped and at the head angle of 27 degrees.
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Milling, grinding, turning, filing, sanding and finally using the buff... I have some nice shinny bits!
BMW K100 triple clamps, made using two lower clamps, old Yamaha rear hub and sprocket carrier and 1975ish Yamaha front hub that I have had for years from an old race bike.
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Wheels assembled loosely with new rims and spokes.... ready for the trip to the chap who knows how to true them, then on go the new rim taps, tubes and tyres. Then I can go ahead with the full scale bike mock up to work out lots of variables. Plus a picture of the workshop motto that I thought might amuse....
:)
:)
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I have been thinking about what shape and size of steel to use for the swinging arm... the Egli Vincent's use 50 by 20 steel in "flat sided oval" but I can't find that size in New Zealand, and I wanted it to be stronger than that anyway to cope with the engine torque.... the two sizes I had readily available here were 50.8mm by 15.9mm and 50.8 by 34mm wide.... both by 1.6mm wall, so too small AND too big. So I did a drawing of those sizes on paper and realized I could double up the 50.8 by 15.9 by 1.6 wall and get 50.8 by 31.8.... which would be VERY strong what with a 3.2mm central internal wall... so I have bought a 5.5 meter length of that and also a length of 28.6 by 1.6 round for the rear frame general tubing. Bigger than the Egli's 22 and 26, but again I want it stronger and heavier looking to match the larger engines scale. Plus I was watching Moto GP racing last night and I did some very rough "thinking on paper" designs of some of the bikes details.... see attached...
Handwriting Font Parallel Drawing Automotive design
Handwriting Slope Triangle Font Art
Handwriting Rectangle Font Slope Parallel
Handwriting Font Line Parallel Triangle
Handwriting Font Line Automotive design Slope
Handwriting Font Parallel Slope Rectangle
 
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Wheels assembled loosely with new rims and spokes.... ready for the trip to the chap who knows how to true them, then on go the new rim taps, tubes and tyres. Then I can go ahead with the full scale bike mock up to work out lots of variables. Plus a picture of the workshop motto that I thought might amuse....
:)
:) View attachment 105260 View attachment 105261 View attachment 105262 View attachment 105263
You can't beat a nice pair of flanged alloy rims. Very nice.
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
You can't beat a nice pair of flanged alloy rims. Very nice.
I know they are what I had on all the Italian bikes I have had over the years and they look great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Today in the absence of my wheels, I decided to assemble the forks and triple clamps and use the tyres for scale and do a first full scale mock up!
I have raised the forks up in the clamps the same amount I plan to take out of the fork travel..... which will give me 159mm of fork showing below... the same amount showing between the triple clamps.... looks right. They will be flush with the top clamp when shortened. The head angle is correct at 27 degrees, the wheel base is at my best guess for what I wanted while designing the bike at 59 inches.... the same as one of my favorite bikes the old 1978 bevel drive 900SS Ducati that I used to own. The front suspension is at FULL extension which means the motor would drop a lot if the weight was on the suspension, so the motor will have to go higher relative to the frame to keep cornering clearance. But for a first mock up I am surprised how high the frame sits.... I had expected it to be HARD on the top of the motor which it does not appear it will be, close but not jammed in, which is GREAT as I need to get the inlet tract for the front cylinder to clear the frame out to the left. The inlet in the front head will I think still have to be modified to get the angle I need, but maybe not. The planned front suspension travel will be 135mm, so if I account for a third for sag when the bike is on it's wheels then that's 45mm up the fork angle.... to get the cornering clearance set I will set the forks at full compression (and the rear later) and check the angle to the motor to the tyres edges..... I am aiming for 45 degrees at full suspension compression which I think will be more than enough corning clearance for and old fossil like me.
Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design
Wheel Automotive tire Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle tire Crankset
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exhaust
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread
Automotive tire Cylinder Rim Gas Engineering
 
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Looks pretty well thought out. The considerations you are making are beyond anything I have dealt with. Looking forward to how this progresses.
 
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