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I don't know if the backing plate will fit, but the CB160, early CL175's, and CL77's had cable rear brakes.
If the shoe OD is the same they could probably be made to work. The CB160 is 180mm, the 175's either 170 or 180 I'm not sure. And the CB77 is 180 or 200mm I think.
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Robert,
That's not really an indication of brake shoe OD. Lots of the earlier brake shoes used wrap around pivots compared to the "C" shaped pivots of later years. Also there could be minor differences in width or spring hole placement etc.
Best bet it so measure the 450 rear brake drum ID and then find an older cable rear brake that uses the same ID hub. Then it's typically just drilling the axle hole the right size and making some spacers if needed. Honda only used about 3 different brake drum IDs on the rear.
Should be doable.
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Why do you wan;t to switch to cable rear brakes? For me personally who has had every one kind of cable or another snap, it is reassuring that the honda rear drum is linkage because linkages don't snap.

That being said the cb750 rear drum is easily converted to cable operation and honda chopper guys have been doing it for years. YOu see it on a lot of lightweight chops but not on a lot of stock bikes which makes me wonder if the cb750 isn't just a little too heavy to be using a cable to actuate the rear brakes.

here is a 750 converted for rear cable actuation:



and here is the writeup on how he did it (it is at the bottom):

http://www.hondachopper.com/verver.html

The T500 uses a cable rear brake, you could maybe adapt it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info on the brake dia. I wasn't aware that they were so similar.

My whole reason for wanting to go to cable is because then I can use modern sportbike rearsets with much easier since they're setup for pushing a mc.
 

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quote:
Thanks for the info on the brake dia. I wasn't aware that they were so similar.

My whole reason for wanting to go to cable is because then I can use modern sportbike rearsets with much easier since they're setup for pushing a mc.
If it is a cb750 and you don't need the drum for a racing class, why not get a 75-76 F rear wheel and convert to disc rear? That way you can run a master cylinder and sport bike rearsets. The yamaha r6 rearsets have master cylinder mounts on the rear set themselves, as do triumph and a few others.
 

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To me nothing looks more trick that state of the art modern running gear on a vintage bike. Anything can be done with enough effort....one of those trick, super light rear disks off a late model sport bike would look really cool.
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quote:
To me nothing looks more trick that state of the art modern running gear on a vintage bike. Anything can be done with enough effort....one of those trick, super light rear disks off a late model sport bike would look really cool.
JohnnyB
The most common rear wheel swap I see on cb750s are cbr f2 (sometimes f1) wheels and fzr600 (88-90) wheels. Mostly because both these wheels are narrow enough to take a 150 sized rear tire and also because the cbr shares an axle diameter with the cb750.
 

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That would be a no brainer for me if I was building a super trick 750. I never use all the HP of the modern bike's I've owned...but I use the handling and brakes the best I can. And new stuff is almost always lighter too.

I'd still like to see an "unlimited chassis" class in our vintage club. Vintage engines....all out no holds barred chassis configurations. I'd stuff my 175 engine into an RS125 frame :)
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I like the look of spoked wheels and I kind of want to stick with drum brakes for now, too, since I'd like to have a vintage racing look.

Maybe another bike I'll do a wheel swap, but this one I think I'll keep spoked & drum brakes.

I was at a show recently and talked to a guy that I know who has a mid '70s RD350 with stock tank, fenders & side covers, but RD400 alloy wheels, RZ350 LC engine & fork legs, modern radial mount calipers and huge trick brake rotors with alloy hats. He also used RZ350 rearsets and rear MC with an SRX600 swingarm and a bunch of other trick stuff. I totally know where you're coming from with the modern parts on a vintage bike.
 

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this is where I am coming from:



1973/74 H1 kawasaki with FZR400 rear and FZR600 front. Project has been on hold the last two years but I'll get back on the stick soon enough.

In the 70s there were a lot of disc brake conversion hubs made for all sorts of bikes. The problem is finding them now. I have one for a cb750 and it is badass (SS spokes, Aluminum Rim, and Lockheed/Airhart disc brakes).

There has to be a dirt bike rear that would work (they are spoked and even the right size). Hell there might even be a swingarm you can adapt while you are at it (you will have to weld twin shock mounts). Go down to the honda dealer with a tape measurer and a micromoter, ask very politley, tell them what you are doing and see if they let you take some measurements. Some of the measurements you might be able to just ask the parts guy (like axle size). That new motocross stuff has to be light as hell and the rims are the right diameter and width for vintage street tires.
 

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johnny,

i keep thinking what a great idea that is everytime you post it. i'd love to build a modern cb350 and run it. i guess i'd look for a fzr roller. of course a rs250 chassis would kick alot of ass too.

unlimited vintage class!!!

see you trackside.

tex
 

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I think it's a good idea because speeds would be about the same, but handling, braking etc would be much better...so it would be safe and competitive. Maybe even less expensive than trying to get an old bike to handle and stop really well. You could probably get a whole modern donor chassis for the price of a killer vintage front brake.
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what are you calling the brake panel the hub with a casting on it for the brake cable,you can save your self time and fit a bracket to the stop are below the swing arm or attach it to the swing arm securly.

Im so far behind ,that I think Im in first.
 
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