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Hi All,

I have a Royal Endfield Continental and I really hate how the rear shocks look. I'll change the yellow color of the spring and the copper looking reservoir.

But I also wanted to flip the shocks leaving the reservoir up, does that affect the bikes performace in any way?

I'm posting the pictures to explain my self better:

Thanks in advance.

Screenshot_1.png

Screenshot_2.png
 

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From what I can see, you can't flip them upside down BC the res and shock body will hit the frame. I gather that's why they fitted them that way. Up or down, these shocks won't make much difference to how the bike functions.

Gas charged shocks should work at any angle.

If you want more café style shocks sell your stock ones, and get some of these:

Hagon shocks.jpg

30005CL2 - BLACK BODY ROAD DAMPERS WITH POLISHED STAINLESS UPPER AND LOWER SHROUD | Hagon Shocks Limited - Twin shocks, Mono shocks, Fork Springs, Wheels

I can't really fathom why you want your good stock shocks to look just like the ones on a junk-buildr bike fitted with cheap-O junk eBay ones.

Getting springs off of shocks is a knuckle-busting horror, get a pro to do it for you. Powder coat is ideal for shock springs. You really need to chemical strip paint off of shock springs. Blasting is often a bit brutal.

Danger, is my business.
 

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From what I can see, you can't flip them upside down BC the res and shock body will hit the frame. I gather that's why they fitted them that way. Up or down, these shocks won't make much difference to how the bike functions.

Gas charged shocks should work at any angle.

If you want more café style shocks sell your stock ones, and get some of these:

View attachment 10253

30005CL2 - BLACK BODY ROAD DAMPERS WITH POLISHED STAINLESS UPPER AND LOWER SHROUD | Hagon Shocks Limited - Twin shocks, Mono shocks, Fork Springs, Wheels

I can't really fathom why you want your good stock shocks to look just like the ones on a junk-buildr bike fitted with cheap-O junk eBay ones.

Getting springs off of shocks is a knuckle-busting horror, get a pro to do it for you. Powder coat is ideal for shock springs. You really need to chemical strip paint off of shock springs. Blasting is often a bit brutal.

Danger, is my business.
Wait, did you just say powder coating was a good thing. I'm still amazed at your negative imagination on everything. He said he wanted to change the color but didn't say to what color and you automatically assume he is going to make them look "just like the ones on a junk-buildr bike fitted with cheap-O junk eBay ones.", as though yellow and anodize gold are the only good combinations. If you mount them upside down with the reservoir in the rear there is no way it will interfere with the frame.
 

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Wait, did you just say powder coating was a good thing. I'm still amazed at your negative imagination on everything. He said he wanted to change the color but didn't say to what color and you automatically assume he is going to make them look "just like the ones on a junk-buildr bike fitted with cheap-O junk eBay ones.", as though yellow and anodize gold are the only good combinations. If you mount them upside down with the reservoir in the rear there is no way it will interfere with the frame.
I've got to give the PCers some work after, even though I can get stuff done for free, I don't want to see guys on the highway with : ' Will P-C for food .' I've got a social conscience, after all.

I've seen that model bike in a showroom, and I've got my doubts the res and body would clear the frame. Been there, seen there.

I doubt the spring top, once inverted, would clear the chain cover, either. Go look at the picture. Go figure.

If someone posts a photo, and discusses doing things related to that photo, it's not wrongs to draw some conclusions.

It seems the shock bushes, bolts and clearance is different, top to bottom. A whole lot of hassle for looks.

Danger, is my business.
 

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Hillsy, you trying to tell me something? Sorry about that. It was just out there waiting for someone to say that and I guess that today was my turn.

OK, so the answer as far as I know is that in teh dim and distant past we were told that shocks could only be run the right way up and that damping would be compromised if they were upside down. Oddly enough teh old Girling race shocks always had to be fitted "upside down" to work. But most modern shocks have a pressurized bladder and I'd expect them to work either way up.
 

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Yes they can. Won't make a difference anyway. The shocks suck on those no offense. Prepped the press bikes this year. The fuel injected machine that needs a carb clean.

mind you, most, if not all road machines stock suspension won't be right for 90% of everyone.

Favorite quote, "I just bought ohlins off ebay..."

"Correct spring for you're weight and application?"

"No it' Ohlins."
 

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I prefer the oil and N2 reservoir to be on the top for several reasons:
1. If they are on bottom, the oil is on the unsprung side and subject to much more vibration...or shaking.
2. Being on the unsprung side of the shock, the extra weight is much more detrimental to suspension travel. Engineers spend quite a bit of effort to reduce unsprung weight.
3. Over time, if the shock develops a leak, or you lose any fluid....or in the case of cheap shocks, they are not completely filled to begin with.... an air pocket forms at the top of the shock body. If the shocks are upside down, that air pocket is right where the shim stack sits when topped out. If the oil is on the upper side of the shock, the shim stack will not hit the air pocket unless the shock gets completely bottomed out. Of course, if air is in the shock body, the oil will tend to aerate and become foamy, and the shim stack will get air in it, anyways. But it won't be sitting in an air space if the oil and res are on the upper side.
 

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I prefer the oil and N2 reservoir to be on the top for several reasons:
1. If they are on bottom, the oil is on the unsprung side and subject to much more vibration...or shaking.
2. Being on the unsprung side of the shock, the extra weight is much more detrimental to suspension travel. Engineers spend quite a bit of effort to reduce unsprung weight.
3. Over time, if the shock develops a leak, or you lose any fluid....or in the case of cheap shocks, they are not completely filled to begin with.... an air pocket forms at the top of the shock body. If the shocks are upside down, that air pocket is right where the shim stack sits when topped out. If the oil is on the upper side of the shock, the shim stack will not hit the air pocket unless the shock gets completely bottomed out. Of course, if air is in the shock body, the oil will tend to aerate and become foamy, and the shim stack will get air in it, anyways. But it won't be sitting in an air space if the oil and res are on the upper side.
Quite a few things there don't really make any sense.

In a shock with a separate pressurized gas cell, the oil could not care in the least about vibration. 130psi+ N gas pressure stops any of those kind of effects. That's why they are pressurized in the first place.

There is no " air pocket " in a N gas pressurized shock. Being pressurized stops any air pockets forming, almost all of the time.

In theory unsprung weight matters regarding suspension response. On this heavy and low powered bike it would make little difference either way they are mounted.

Danger, is my business.
 

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Read my post again Wit. I agree that with a freshly rebuilt or properly built shock, there will be no air pocket to cause cavitation, and te short term performance won't be an issue. My post was primarily about long term performance. If you start to lose fluid...or are using a set of cheap ebay shocks that aren't properly built out of the box....there will be an air pocket. The N2 bladder will compress that air so the volume will be smaller than in a non charged shock, but the pocket will still be there. And that air WILL aerate with vibration.
 
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