CB160 Racer

Thats the spirit! Thanks.

Yeah, about the tank. Ever been at a junkyard or swap and just get a gut feeling about some rusty piece of shit from a totally different machine just laying there?

I'm thinking the bubble's got to be cut down to fit my big ol' head in behind there. We'll see when it comes time to mount it.

Motor's just a stock piece that, if it has decent compression, I'm just gonna run with just to get out there.

jb, yep I'll be buggin' you fer sure. Say, you got a line on any decent carbs or megaphones?






Honda go sideways!

Uh, hey. My name's Eric.

I might have mentioned it before but I'm loosely associated with the Rice Paddy here in Ohio. Worked there for a couple of years and the owner's a good friend. Anyway, I got out to their second yard today and dug up some shit.

Junkyard haul:


Some pretty clean 350 wheels,
some straight 350 forks
and some clean 160 carbs.

No dice (yet) on the SL carbs, but like you say jb, for a stock setup they (the stock 160 carbs) should suffice.

Oh yeah, jb, he's got a decent pile of 175 shit (both sloper and upright). Last time I was out there he hadn't sorted through it all yet.




Honda go sideways!

Edited by - krapfever on Dec 12 2006 8:45:10 PM

Edited by - krapfever on Dec 13 2006 12:24:14 PM

JB: Yep, no problem. I'll probably be heading back out there the week after next. I'll take my camera, get some pics and get them to you.

Say, I don't wanna open a can 'o' worms here but, come to think of it, having ridden my 350 on the street for the past 6 years, 350 brakes SUCK. I've got a set of ferrodo shoes in there but man do they fade.

Reading another active post on here about forks, then searching the (lengthy) archives for discussion on brakes has got me wonderin'...I'm not going crazy on the motor on this bike yet, but suspension and brakes ought to be a priority. I'm already retrofitting the 160 stem into the 350 trees (as stated above) which will allow for better forks.

Now, let me pose a question to you nice folks. If you had access to a yard that carries a generous stock of Japanese parts, what front end combo would you go with? And yeah, the Paddy's got a nifty collection of many of the high dollar usual suspects (read: a nice Water Buffalo front end, etc.) but no, I don't necessarily want that. I'm just curious what you guys would put together for a peewee 160 and why.

Hell I might as well try to do this right.




Honda go sideways!

Awright, more shit done...


Frame sandblasted and shaved, had to clean up some welds too:





Some of the crap I cut off:




Bondo, baby!:




Cleaned up all purty:




Mock up w/ the stripped Riverside tank, tail option #1:



Mock up, tail option #2:




Which tail do you think?

Triple trees are still being fabbed--he's gonna make me a new top tree outta billet (OCC bitches!)

I'm going out to get a CB450 front wheel Wednesday to be sent off to Vintage Brake to be done up right.

Lastly, I got a line on some SUPER clean 350 forks, built for race and track tested.


Busy fuckin' bee, I am.







Honda go sideways!

And more progress…

CL450 wheel.

Need the hub, not the 19” rim so…





Got the bottom triple tree back (160 stem pressed/welded into 350 tree):





Rolled some strap to make a one-off-moped-tank-on-a-wee-race-bike tank locator:



Cut and shaped a subframe brace:



And cut and mocked up some high dollar race only super go fast clip ons (yep, those are pinch brackets off a junk 350 triple tree and cut off clubman bars):




Merry Christmas you Cheeseheads!

Honda go sideways!

Edited by - krapfever on Dec 25 2006 10:51:14 AM

And more progress…

CL450 wheel.

Need the hub, not the 19” rim so…





Got the bottom triple tree back (160 stem pressed/welded into 350 tree):





Rolled some strap to make a one-off-moped-tank-on-a-wee-race-bike tank locator:



Cut and shaped a subframe brace:



And cut and mocked up some high dollar race only super go fast clip ons (yep, those are pinch brackets off a junk 350 triple tree and cut off clubman bars):




Merry Christmas you Cheeseheads!

Honda go sideways!

Edited by - krapfever on Dec 25 2006 10:51:14 AM

quote:Nice job.

Man, I need to pick up a small bike to race with you guys in the 200 class.

Click to expand...

Yeah, in AHRMA its Grand Prix 200 Plus. From what I can tell the two strokers are the fast bikes in this class.

From the rulebook:

10.2.4 200 GRAND PRIX PLUS: This class combines a variety of engine designs and displacements, based on an index of performance. Eligible machines are listed below by make, model, displacement, and individual restrictions. Like-design models also are permitted. Displacement as noted below may not be increased beyond the allowable overbore. (See rule 9.7.2).
Aermacchi/H-D 250cc long-stroke (66mm bore x72mm stroke), wet clutch, original backbone chassis, maximum 30mm carburetor (i.e., up to 1965 only)
AJS/Matchless 250cc pushrod single, maximum 30mm carburetor
Ariel Arrow 250cc twin, original frame and forks, one 32mm or smaller carburetor
Benelli 250cc pushrod single, maximum 30mm carburetor
BMW R26 250cc single, maximum 30mm carburetor
Bridgestone 175cc twin, maximum 22mm carburetors
Bridgestone 200cc twin, maximum 20mm carburetors
BSA/Triumph 250cc single, maximum 30mm carburetor
Bultaco 125cc water-cooled GP TSS (round barrel only)
Bultaco 175cc air-cooled single (round barrel only), maximum 30mm carburetor
Bultaco 200cc air-cooled single, maximum 4-speed, maximum 28mm carburetor
Ducati 125, 160, 175, 200cc single
Hodaka 125cc
Honda CR110 (CR93)
Honda CB/CL 160, 175cc twin
Honda CA/CB 125, 160cc twin
Indian Arrow 250cc single, maximum 30mm carburetor
Moto Guzzi 250cc pushrod, maximum 30mm carburetor
MV 200cc “works” or replica single or twin
MV Augusta 250cc pushrod, maximum 30mm carburetor
Norton 250cc pushrod twin, maximum 30mm carburetor
Ossa 175cc, maximum 30mm carburetor
Parilla 250cc pushrod, maximum 30mm carburetor
Parilla 200cc production racer
Puch/Allstate 250cc split single, maximum one 32mm carburetor
Rumi 125cc flat twin
Triumph 200cc T20 Tiger Cub, maximum 250cc with allowable overbore; maximum 30mm carburetor
Villiers-based 250cc two-strokes such as Cotton, DKW, Greeves, maximum 32mm carburetor
Yamaha AS1 125cc twin (pre-1968), cast iron cylinders only
Yamaha CS3 and CS5, maximum 20mm carburetors or carburetor bore size
Yamaha CT1 175cc single (no Noguchi engine components), maximum 30mm carburetor
Yamaha YCS1 180cc twin (pre-1969), cast iron cylinders only, maximum 22mm carburetors.
10.2.5 REQUIREMENTS AND MODIFICATIONS FOR GRAND PRIX CLASSES
a) All GP class motorcycles must be fully GP kitted, with no lights, no starting mechanisms, no street equipment or associated brackets (factory-welded brackets may be retained if desired), low narrow handlebars (maximum width 32 inches). Fairings are encouraged.
b) Frame may be changed to racing type, though must be period type and style. (Refer to rule 9.7.3)
c) Front forks may be changed, though must be period type and style. “Ceriani” type may be no larger in diameter than 35mm, unless supplied as OEM on that motorcycle.
d) Period retrofit gearboxes are permitted (i.e., Quaife, Shaflieghtner). Maximum 6 speeds unless otherwise stated.
e) Front disc brakes are prohibited. Rear disc brakes are permitted, provided they are period equipment.
f) Magnesium engine cases are allowed in 500 Premier.
g) The number of valves in the cylinder head may not be increased or decreased from stock.
h) No more than one carburetor per cylinder.
i) All modifications must be consistent with the spirit of the class and period.
j) Appearance and workmanship of a reasonable standard shall be enforced.
k) Two-strokes must use silencers.
l) Maximum rim width WM3 in all GP classes.



Honda go sideways!

quote:Nice job.

Man, I need to pick up a small bike to race with you guys in the 200 class.

Click to expand...

Yeah, in AHRMA its Grand Prix 200 Plus. From what I can tell the two strokers are the fast bikes in this class.

From the rulebook:

10.2.4 200 GRAND PRIX PLUS: This class combines a variety of engine designs and displacements, based on an index of performance. Eligible machines are listed below by make, model, displacement, and individual restrictions. Like-design models also are permitted. Displacement as noted below may not be increased beyond the allowable overbore. (See rule 9.7.2).
Aermacchi/H-D 250cc long-stroke (66mm bore x72mm stroke), wet clutch, original backbone chassis, maximum 30mm carburetor (i.e., up to 1965 only)
AJS/Matchless 250cc pushrod single, maximum 30mm carburetor
Ariel Arrow 250cc twin, original frame and forks, one 32mm or smaller carburetor
Benelli 250cc pushrod single, maximum 30mm carburetor
BMW R26 250cc single, maximum 30mm carburetor
Bridgestone 175cc twin, maximum 22mm carburetors
Bridgestone 200cc twin, maximum 20mm carburetors
BSA/Triumph 250cc single, maximum 30mm carburetor
Bultaco 125cc water-cooled GP TSS (round barrel only)
Bultaco 175cc air-cooled single (round barrel only), maximum 30mm carburetor
Bultaco 200cc air-cooled single, maximum 4-speed, maximum 28mm carburetor
Ducati 125, 160, 175, 200cc single
Hodaka 125cc
Honda CR110 (CR93)
Honda CB/CL 160, 175cc twin
Honda CA/CB 125, 160cc twin
Indian Arrow 250cc single, maximum 30mm carburetor
Moto Guzzi 250cc pushrod, maximum 30mm carburetor
MV 200cc “works” or replica single or twin
MV Augusta 250cc pushrod, maximum 30mm carburetor
Norton 250cc pushrod twin, maximum 30mm carburetor
Ossa 175cc, maximum 30mm carburetor
Parilla 250cc pushrod, maximum 30mm carburetor
Parilla 200cc production racer
Puch/Allstate 250cc split single, maximum one 32mm carburetor
Rumi 125cc flat twin
Triumph 200cc T20 Tiger Cub, maximum 250cc with allowable overbore; maximum 30mm carburetor
Villiers-based 250cc two-strokes such as Cotton, DKW, Greeves, maximum 32mm carburetor
Yamaha AS1 125cc twin (pre-1968), cast iron cylinders only
Yamaha CS3 and CS5, maximum 20mm carburetors or carburetor bore size
Yamaha CT1 175cc single (no Noguchi engine components), maximum 30mm carburetor
Yamaha YCS1 180cc twin (pre-1969), cast iron cylinders only, maximum 22mm carburetors.
10.2.5 REQUIREMENTS AND MODIFICATIONS FOR GRAND PRIX CLASSES
a) All GP class motorcycles must be fully GP kitted, with no lights, no starting mechanisms, no street equipment or associated brackets (factory-welded brackets may be retained if desired), low narrow handlebars (maximum width 32 inches). Fairings are encouraged.
b) Frame may be changed to racing type, though must be period type and style. (Refer to rule 9.7.3)
c) Front forks may be changed, though must be period type and style. “Ceriani” type may be no larger in diameter than 35mm, unless supplied as OEM on that motorcycle.
d) Period retrofit gearboxes are permitted (i.e., Quaife, Shaflieghtner). Maximum 6 speeds unless otherwise stated.
e) Front disc brakes are prohibited. Rear disc brakes are permitted, provided they are period equipment.
f) Magnesium engine cases are allowed in 500 Premier.
g) The number of valves in the cylinder head may not be increased or decreased from stock.
h) No more than one carburetor per cylinder.
i) All modifications must be consistent with the spirit of the class and period.
j) Appearance and workmanship of a reasonable standard shall be enforced.
k) Two-strokes must use silencers.
l) Maximum rim width WM3 in all GP classes.



Honda go sideways!

Anyway, here's some pics from the Rice Paddy yard last week:





Honest to God I found, like TEN cb160 engines but only one 175 (out in the weeds):





Junkyards are cool:







Honda go sideways!

Edited by - krapfever on Feb 07 2007 07:28:55 AM

quote:
That 175 looks like a vert...was it?

I need a set of jugs off a CB200...not a CB200T...but an old school CB200 like 1974-76.

You should be a middle man for that place, get like 20% commission for selling stuff. I'll have you picking through that shit all day
JohnnyB

Click to expand...

JB, when you say 200T, you mean the venerable TwinStar?

Old CB200 shit he's got. In fact, when we were digging around I remember coming across some 200 jugs (didn't look too close at them). If you want a good set, I'll hand pick them and babysit them through shipping. I don't wanna go anywhere near money though. Sorry. Give the Paddy a call (614) 297 1404, ask for Tom, I'll let him know you're interested.

Man, we looked for 175 slopers for like an hour. All I found was the blue baby (CD175) posted above. Its a weird little bike. Looks like a sloper motor in an upright frame.







Honda go sideways!

Edited by - krapfever on Dec 28 2006 4:18:35 PM

Okay, got some more done.

Got a clean CB450 wheel on ebay. No pics but it had a really cheesy ribbed tire on it.

Got the frame and tank back from a friend who’s a bitchin’ welder.



Latch from McMaster-Carr, welded in place.


A little cutting and fab work on the front tabs of the Riverside tank:


Keepers and re-tasked shock bushings hold it all in place up front:




Sandblasted the headpipes and exhaust collars:


Tires and shocks on order, triple tree and poor man’s clip-ons on deck. Tally-ho.


Honda go sideways!

Waitin' for parts to come in and toolin’ around on a cold Saturday afternoon…


Got some new (cheapo) shocks (feh…they’ll do for now):



Oh yeah, check the sexy Tarozzi rearsets and the one-off, resin-bonded, organic fiber (a.k.a. plywood) tailpiece base.


Gonna lace the original 160 hub up to this fine D.I.D. rim (got it at Mid-Ohio years ago and have been waiting to find a use for the damn 36-hole thing ever since):






Honda go sideways!

Okay. So, after taking my time and doing everything WRONG on the first attempt, I got the 160 rear hub laced up to a brand spankin’ new D.I.D. rim.


Started with this:



Stripped the old clear coat and wet sanded down the hub with 400 grit paper.



Cleaned it up with further wet sanding, 600 grit then 1000.



Buffed it on the wheel:



Finally, hand polish it (here’s a shot of the paint stripper and polish, quality products both). Still needs some finish polishing, but it looks a damn sight better than before.





Honda go sideways!

Okay. So, after taking my time and doing everything WRONG on the first attempt, I got the 160 rear hub laced up to a brand spankin’ new D.I.D. rim.


Started with this:



Stripped the old clear coat and wet sanded down the hub with 400 grit paper.



Cleaned it up with further wet sanding, 600 grit then 1000.



Buffed it on the wheel:



Finally, hand polish it (here’s a shot of the paint stripper and polish, quality products both). Still needs some finish polishing, but it looks a damn sight better than before.





Honda go sideways!

Okay, now for the lacing.

I’ve posted pics of the whole process for the benefit of anyone who’s never laced a rim. It’s pretty tricky to do without tangling/mixing up the spokes or scratching the crap outta your fancy new rim…anybody who has a better way, please post up (I’m going to lace the front hub to a new rim too).

Side by side with a junker 160 wheel for comparison:



Sort the spokes. There are two different types, I called them “over” and “under.” The “over” spokes run up from the inside of the hub and lay over the flange. “Under” spokes run opposite. Second pic shows the more rounded angle of the head on the “over” spoke on the right:



Side by side comparo of the spokes. (Sorry about the image quality, cheap ass camera and a dumb ass photographer):



Alright, the spokes are run over and under. Tape the pairs together or get really baffled really quick. Half the hub laced:



And both sides laced:



By the way, don’t try to lace the spokes to the rim one at a time. Trust me.

Now, lay the rim over the hub and spokes and slowly, gently screw each nipple (!!!!) on the spokes. The spokes run in a predictable pattern; just stare at a finished wheel for a minute and you’ll see it. Install the nipples on the “under” spokes first, then go back and “nipple” the “overs” (I have no comment). Also, only run each nipple on about 3 or 4 threads so you have some slop to move the rim around as you line up the spokes. Here’s the finished deal:



There she is.

Swamped 160 hub: Free. Hell, I almost pitched it.

Paint stripper and polish: $10

Swap meet aluminum rim: $10

Set of spokes from Buchanan’s: $75

Sexy new wheel: Priceless




Now I gotta figure out how to true it….


Honda go sideways!