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Discussion Starter #21
UPDATE

yesterday i got the carb kits in the mail and managed to install the new float valves. with the help of my car battery, she fired right up and ran...OK. the idle was pretty inconsistent. for awhile she hung right around 900 which i feel was mint, but most of the time it would bounce around or stay around 3 grand. it was running with no air filters and the mufflers are rusted to death so i have a feeling that may help a little bit. other than that i haven't tinkered with the carbs. today i'm going to clean the points and try and get her running top notch.

the other problem that i've encountered is that the clutch is not working. in gear i can pull the clutch yet the wheel will still spin full force. i'm thinking i need to just adjust the cable. any other ideas?

i'm waiting on a manual which should really help me out. once i get her up and running and can take her on the first trip the real progress will begin.
 

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I think your clutch plates are glued together from sitting. I would pull the clutch cover and pull out the clutch plates. Sand the steel plates and break the glaze on the fibers. An orbital sander will work well on both. Then make sure that you have completely cleaned all the grit off, reassemble the clutch and install new springs. That is the correct way. The easy way is to stick the front wheel against an immovable object and stuff it into gear. That will probably break the plates loose, too.
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well the clutch plates were stuck, but i got all that figured out. i was planning on getting it running then resto, but while waiting for the tank liner to dry i got bored and stripped the whole bike. pics will be up shortly. should be ready for paint by the end of the weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
alright i had a pretty successful weekend. i managed to get the bike completely stripped. i also cleaned up the frame and removed all the unnecessary brackets and took care of the very little surface rust it had. i also took care of the rusty tank using phosphoric acid then lined the inside. i've also ordered a whole mess of new parts, hopefully everything that i need. the only thing i'm having trouble finding is a new black front brake cable. any ideas?? here are a couple pics of my progress...sorry i couldn't take more pictures i was on a roll.

as she stood saturday morning at 10:30


removing wiring...PITA


engine came out smoothly


and here's how she stood saturday around 4:30...not a bad days work taking my time and bagging and labeling everything i took off


here's the frame now...i removed the peg brackets and right control mount. i managed to save the kickstand and grind it free of the mid controls. cleaned it up and it will go in its stock location. i'm not going to run the centerstand but i wanted to keep the brackets to make tire changes and such easier...it goes on with one bolt.


here's a question: i have the older triple tree top clamp that integrates the fork and i bought a later model one so i can raise the forks through the triple clamp. fortunately it looks like the one i ordered comes with tapered steering bushings. do i need anything else to run these? or do they just fall into the stock location? i'm guessing i need the collars that fit into the neck. any ideas where i can get those???

here's a pic of what i bought:


i've also ordered a bunch of new parts so as they come progress will continue. i'm excited for the RC-51 rearsets that i got. they should mock up nicely. sorry for the long post, but i'm back off to the garage. another update tonight!!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
UPDATE

today i managed to get the frame sanded down and into primer. i'm going to wait on paint until i get all the parts to mock everything up. i also managed to get the tank stripped. today i'm going to clean the engine and prep it for paint along with the wheels.

frame after sanding for 4 hours



primed frame



ready to strip the tank



about halfway through...there must have been 3 different colors on this tank



off to the garage...more updates tonight.

ps. any ideas on that triple clamp question i had above? thanks
 

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The triple clamp with the tapered bearings won't fit into the races that the roller bearings used. Replace the bearing races in the frame with the correct races for the tapered bearings and your good to go. But I don't know where you'd buy just the races.

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #30
thanks i had a feeling finding just the races would be a problem. o well it only cost me 15 bucks any how.

UPDATE

well it doesn't look like i got a lot done today, but it was a pretty long day of work. i started cleaning the engine for paint and at first everything was going to be black, but soon i decided to polish both side covers. so far so good. i could have really gone to town on them, but i decided to keep it pretty tame because the bike will be driven and it looks good enough for a driver.





only have a couple hours to work on it tomorrow before work, but i should be finished polishing the left side covers.
 

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I cannot say I have ever put Timken cups in a CB350 honda neck that I recall

then again there have been plenty of those frames cut here and different forks added so it's seeming like maybe I'm forgetting

but.........

IF you have a pair of calipers, at least some 15 buck digitals (and they are nice for this type of work since they will quickly convert from metric to standard), I'll be glad to walk you thru the process

if you are waiting for somebody to tell you the magic bearing cup number to work with who knows what bearing cone

it may be a long wait

so let me know and if you are up for it, let me know the number on the bearing cones

and while you are at it, stem dimensions, bearing cup bore dimensions in the steering neck as well

but of course timken taper cones will not fit or work with the stock ball race cups in your frame

nice work so far and I'm really getting angry that everyone else has a CB350 and I don't even have one
 

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oh and if you are game

let me know if you have digital calipers and keep in mind all your dims are metric

it's just nice to be able to convert to standard just in case that is what it takes to make something work

I haven't looked to see what bearing cup anyone has stuffed into a CB350 or what it's K factor is

but it surely can be done
 

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Discussion Starter #33
no progress today. worked from 7 - 12 and again from 3 - now (12:30ish). spent that middle portion researching ideas and such. initially i was going to keep my lower fork covers and remove the top, but i'm LOVING the looks of this CL350 with the springs exposed. is this safe? i can't see much harm in it. thoughts?



Hacksaw...i'll get back to you as soon as i have the bearings in hand.
 

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Hack - Most all of the Honda models used the same size tapered bearings so if you know the bearing race size for a CB450 or CB550 for example you'll know the size needed for the CB350. When I bought my tapered bearings for my bike the bearings and races all came as one package. I didn't even think about being able to buy just the races.
Craig
 

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looks really good, I dig the non-emgo K&N's, I'd make the pipes equal length, and exposed springs are fine

sometimes they may hang onto a rock or bit of road debris but you only live once



cool, I am not sure when Honda or any of the others starting using timken tapered bearings for steering stems and straight across the board, but, I'm thinking it has been only within the last 20 years or even more recently


I have done many conversions and made them work even mixing metric stems with bastard (nothing off the shelf would fit the brit or euro hole in the frame) cup bores or standard (non-metric) bores

some stems exist that no off the shelf cone exists to fit the stem

and vice versa

so I chuck whatever needs to go in the lathe and make it the right size if it's within reason and will not make the part unsafe

the K factor, as listed on timken's site and in the bearing house parts books, simply refers to the taper angle

so all you have to do is match those up, and due to the nature of taper bearings you can actually run a slight mismatch and do so at your own risk, regardless if one bearing is metric and the other standard

most always the K factors can be matched up perfectly

the metric/standard cross over stuff shouldn't be a consideration in this case as he may get lucky and there be a cup that exists which will fit his frame and accommodate the bearings on his new trees

learning how to do it this way means you don't have to buy a "kit" for crazy money and often I am able to go to the parts or bearing store and shell out less than 25 bucks for my timken bearings

even cheaper if you don't mind running chinese stuff

the cups are very inexpensive

the cones are can be 3 to 4 times the price of the cups
 

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quote:Originally posted by Hoehn

no progress today. worked from 7 - 12 and again from 3 - now (12:30ish). spent that middle portion researching ideas and such. initially i was going to keep my lower fork covers and remove the top, but i'm LOVING the looks of this CL350 with the springs exposed. is this safe? i can't see much harm in it. thoughts?

That's my bike. Exposed springs are the least if its problems. Make sure you have external springs under there. Many bikes don't.

Those high pipes aren't on the bike anymore. I've since done a 2-1 exhaust that dumps under the bike.

--Chris
 

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About the bearings, I too bought my tapered roller bearings in a kit from all-balls. In your case, you might be taking a chunk a stainless to a machine shop to get the taper and OD machined. Personally, I'd just call all balls and order some new ones. They only cost $30-$40.

--Chris
 

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i too have the all balls kit on my RD when i swapped it to tapered bearings. I would just order a set from them and save the hassle. its $10 or so difference and no guessing. and chrisf, you have a beautiful motorbike
 

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what's to guess about?

hard numbers are hard numbers

I surely wouldn't order and pay to ship all new cups and cones if my cones are good and I can locally buy the correct fitting cones for just the price of learning the bearing charts and maybe 10 bucks
 

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Hack:

I love your approach to this stuff. You're right, but if this kid is anything like me, he's also lazy.

--Chris
 
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