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CB350 racing advise needed

13817 Views 47 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  XB33BSA
Hello, I recently picked up a 1972 CB350 to prepare for racing in both the WERA and AHRMA races near me throughout the year. I have read some build threads on here and also on other sites to see what common modifications are. However, I am wanting to check with the experienced folks here who race these bikes and find out what modifications are real priorities. The bike is 100% stock and has 1,100 miles on it. I am wanting to have it ready in 2 months and I am not wanting to spend tons of money doing a top notch rebuild. Basically wanting to upgrade what is necessary to have a safe reliable bike to race. I wont be fast so no need to have a championship level bike.

Any suggestions on engine parts and mods to make sure it will last the racing season and hold up to race use?
Suspension or brake suggestions?
I am also curious about any common modifications that are not legal or will not allow the bike to race in BOTH series.
Anything most people overlook when building one that is important to have?

Thanks for any help guys.
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You should keep the apes :cool:

Or modify them Japan Auto Race style....

I will have to check and see if WERA allows the use of a steel shoe before I make that mod :D
sportsman 350 sportsman 500 f 250




AHRMA Prody LW and WERA 350GP usually have decent size grids and with the inclusion of the rear sets in AHRMA, they are essentially the same bike.
sl frames are flexy the cb frame is far better
2017 AHRMA rules do allow rearsets in production classes.

From the AHRMA handbook:
f) CONTROLS AND FOOTRESTS:
...
Footrests may be trimmed down or raised for
ground clearance; rearsets may be used.
That rule change is new since I last raced in 2010.

I don't like it.

As it is, they allow UNLIMITED hot-rodding of the engines, as long as they APPEAR original. And, many racers were building customs that looked NOTHING like the original models they were SUPPOSED to have been at the time of their "HISTORIC PRODUCTION"...

Off the subject, but with the SL frame, you can no longer fit an electric starter.
sl frames are flexy the cb frame is far better
I thought someone did some research on this and showed that since the SL uses all round tubes it was stronger?
Im sure to MOST it would not change lap times or be the "limiting factor"
Bill Johnson (B.J.) had a pretty good thread about his build on here or somewhere on the interwebs. Try to find it.

This is where I started - Welcome to the Vintage-Roadrace List Honda CB350 Road Racer FAQJust note that what is being described on these pages are mostly V1 mods.

My regret is missing two whole seasons trying to get all the kewl go-fast stuff on my bike. If you're not planning to podium anyway, don't waste time building the perfect beast. Just take time to safety wire everything and get out there, and get a second engine to work on while you're having fun.
Bill Johnson (B.J.) had a pretty good thread about his build on here or somewhere on the interwebs. Try to find it.

This is where I started - Welcome to the Vintage-Roadrace List Honda CB350 Road Racer FAQJust note that what is being described on these pages are mostly V1 mods.

My regret is missing two whole seasons trying to get all the kewl go-fast stuff on my bike. If you're not planning to podium anyway, don't waste time building the perfect beast. Just take time to safety wire everything and get out there, and get a second engine to work on while you're having fun.
I will look that thread up and I have seen and read the EuroSpares page, lots of good info. I have fallen into the trap of always trying to chase that last 10% of power game before and I totally agree with you. Lots of missed races and track time. I am not going to go down that route with this bike at all. Its going to be about slow reliability
The single most important thing, is to build a bike that can operate near the top of it's performance envelope, CONTINUOUSLY for extended laps, and repeated races, without anything breaking or falling off from improper preparation.

So, the closer the engine is to original specification, and the more carefully it is assembled and prepared, the greater the likelihood is that you will be finishing races when others are dropping out before the checkered flag.

As far as believing you can buy enough speed to beat other riders, that is ONLY true if you are a very highly skilled rider! MOST of the good riders also have their bikes tricked out, too. A good rider on a relatively slower bike, can beat a lesser rider on a faster bike almost every time.

FINISH LAPS, stay on the pavement, and don't get in over your head for one/any position, and you'll likely do just fine.
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tires, suspension, brakes, proper gearing and functional controls / cables will allow you to have a goood time.. yea and of course a reliable engine.
Make sure you stick in a decent oil additive- your engine might last to the chequered flag
Everglide Oil Nano Engine Oil Treatment
works for me.
Mal
? was that a free advertisement or what ? :rolleyes:

lol make Your 1970's econo bike track ready today; buy this goop and dump it in your engine.
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In a nutshell, do this.

The other thing for me is that I don't want to spend my time at the track fixing a broken vintage bike, so I almost always bring two bikes and if one goes down, I just enter more classes on the other one. If I make it to Mid-Ohio this year I will bring the SV650 and a vintage bike. Probably the Honda Ascot, but maybe the Seca 550 or FZ600, unless I get the CB350 put back together or finish the DT1.

tires, suspension, brakes, proper gearing and functional controls / cables will allow you to have a goood time.. yea and of course a reliable engine.
Thought I might toss this predicament out here and see what you guys have to say. I am kind of hitting my first snag on this project. I have tried reaching out this past week to the 3 big companies that specialize in CB350 racing parts, mainly trying to buy a KA performance tensioner and cam chain. 2 of the 3 dont list phone numbers, just email and only one has responded once. I replied back listing the several items Id like to purchase and asking how I can go about paying them, never heard back after 3 days. The 3rd option lists the tensioner as out of stock. I will call monday to confirm.

If I can just snag a tensioner and good chain from somewhere I can get the rest of my parts from other places. Any suggestions on where to procure a KA tensioner and good timing chain easily?
In a nutshell, do this. The other thing for me is that I don't want to spend my time at the track fixing a broken vintage bike, so I almost always bring two bikes and if one goes down, I just enter more classes on the other one.
Unless you're me...

Two years in a row I've broken both my bikes on Friday practice.
CB350 - 1. holed piston (valve float) 2. broken cam chain
RD350 - 1. crashed in the keyhole 2. seized piston coming out of thunder valley

This year I'm just bringing the CB with two engines!
mainly trying to buy a KA performance tensioner and cam chain.
If I can just snag a tensioner and good chain from somewhere I can get the rest of my parts from other places. Any suggestions on where to procure a KA tensioner and good timing chain easily?
A bit pricey, but they may have them in stock - CB750 CR750 CB450 CB500 CB350 XL250 XL350 Honda Racing Parts by M3 Racing - Classic Motorcycle parts and services
They have them listed as "sold out". I will call monday to confirm.

I emailed them Monday and never heard back. I finally see they have a tiny fax/phone number at the bottom I will call Monday, all I saw previously was their email listed as the way to contact them. Fingers crossed.
They have them listed as "sold out". I will call monday to confirm. I emailed them Monday and never heard back. I finally see they have a tiny fax/phone number at the bottom I will call Monday, all I saw previously was their email listed as the way to contact them. Fingers crossed.
A lot of these outfits GO RACING! Most are also closed on Mondays. Try calling on Tuesday.
A lot of these outfits GO RACING! Most are also closed on Mondays. Try calling on Tuesday.
I will try both days. Considering that these outfits are relatively close to me I dont know of any racing going on around here unless they are driving a long ways away. Who knows, Ill just keep trying my hardest to give these guys my money and see if someone will eventually take it.
My last 350 race motor had good stock tensioner rollers in it. I did not have a problem, but I always was concerned for when they were going to start coming apart. My point being, if you want to get the motor together and are just waiting on a tensioner and have decent stock rollers, I would go ahead and put it together and replace the tensioner when you have the motor apart again.
tires, suspension, brakes, proper gearing and functional controls / cables will allow you to have a goood time.. yea and of course a reliable engine.
You won't need slick tires & warmers...I always used BT45's, which stuck like glue and made nice "gumballs". All the good tire companys make supersport tires that are competitive up into the expert classes. Good suspension is also right up there in importance.

Jim B
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