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Discussion Starter #1
I am about to strip my '75 cb360T down and rebuild it into cafe style. I would like to know of any and all performance parts available for this engine. i have done a little bit of research and it seems that there are only a few mods available. I was kinda hoping to get some tips and tricks from some of you who are more experienced with this. any and all replys would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
How strong are the stock parts for this engine. i heard it had some bad reviews back in its day. could it handle additional hp? and some relatively hard riding? thanks
 

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about 10 different people rode mikes bike. including myself. it was pretty fast. hes already covered what he did in one of the pages here. if you search say, cb360....you might find it. why would you want a fatter tire. a 130 already looks pretty huge on them.

jc
 

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see "cb360t racebike" under the vintage racing heading. mike covers it there.

jc
 

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I am agreeing with Joe on this one. I would not go any bigger than a 130 on the rear. You should go to at least a WM3 (2.15) rim o handle that. The easiest way to get the rim is to transplant a dirt bike wheel with an alloy rim in there. I think the rear off an XL350 is wm3 and cheap off ebay. Other than that start with carbs and a pipe and see if you really want anything else. By the way, pick up a parts bike and a spare engine or two, you will want them.
Ken

AHRMA 412
Vintage racing - old guys on old bikes
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I only found one post by mikeo refering to this topic and found the website for megacycle he mentioned. There is a "road race" cam there that they say needs modified pistons and springs. I searched the web for about 30 minutes and couldnt find any aftermarket pistons. Is it too expensive to have pistons custom made? i would like to start getting this engine rebuilt in a few weeks and im starting to get anxious because of all the research that is involved.
 

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For a street bike I'd stay away from the cam and pistons for now. Spend that money on making the bike lighter and you'll go faster, stop faster, turn quicker...and the engine will still be realiable and affordable.
Custom pistons can be had in sets of four for about $600...but that's not the problem....you'd be talking 6 months of research and shop work to determine just what would be "custom" about the pistons. In general you can't just go to a piston maker and say I want custom pistons for a 360T, you have to have all the specs and measurements, ring sizes, dome height, compression height, wristpin size, bore size, valve pocket size and depth and you have to make a cast of the combustion chamber in most cases.
I've done this about ten times...not for a 360 though. And if you spec something out wrong...you have $600 paper weights.

Knocking 30-40 lbs off the bike will give you more performance than the cam and pistons would anyway. Like the boys say...carbs, pipes, ignition and light weight bits would be the place to start.
JohnnyB
 

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i agree with jb! get it light and tight, make it pretty, and then worry about cams, pistons, valves and springs. i hope your not planning to drag race this bike for pink slips.....cause if you are, get a cb350. i don't have anything against a cb360, other than i don't think a fully modified one would beat a fully modified 350 in a race. i think having a six speed gearbox is cool. i think a cafe 360 would be a great project. just don't tell me that mike's old cb360 could beat a buff harsh/todd henning/chris marshall spec cb350 roadracer.

tex "i'm not bitter" mawby



"bitches!"
 

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Tex....a six speed is HUGE on the race track though. All things being equal that extra gear would probably knock two seconds off the lap times of someone that knew how to use it.
Boy if I had an extra gear to use out of 2, 3 and 6 I could easily go a second or two faster.
But nahh...you'll never see the HP out of a 360T that you'd get from a worked 350....mainly just because the parts are not out there and the research hasn't been done to make them.
JohnnyB
 

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it doesnt have the power, mikes bike. mike said he barely used 6th at louden i think. chris i think told me he never really used 5th at louden. just touched i think on his 350. (guess something to be said for being able to rev to 12k with 48hp and a drum brake) mike was running stock pistons a bigger intake valve, and the cam with some porting work. as far as i now it was never dyno'd. not that having it dynod really means anything. dont make me cut and paste it.

jc
 

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the most important part of this is the first sentance!


"Everything Joe says is almost true. Good job Joe. Actually the engines do have a lot of potential but no one makes real speed parts for them. In the day Powroll made a couple different big bore kits for them but I was never able to find any. Todd did the head on mine and it takes the same valves he used on the 350 heads. If someone wants to go halvsies with me we could try to get JE or someone to make some high compression pistons. Megacycle does make a cam for it but only one. It seemed to be ok for road race type power. I used the CJ as the base bike because on the no electric starter so I didn't have to plug any holes. The CJ had a 5 speed but the 6 speed CB trans just drops in. You need to change everything though not just the gears. I think the CJ frame is a little stiffer too. There are only minor differences but I thought they were significant. It is in my basement waiting till I return from Arizona to start my retirement and then it should be back running.

Tex..... see you next year.

Mike O."
 

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If you don't use fifth, or sixth at a track it's because you are geared wrong.
Run shorter gearing...and you get to use all the gears like you should be. Always gear for redline in high gear at the fastest part of the track.
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok, i think i see the direction i need to be heading here. well,as of now, i have only taken the seat, tank, fenders, headlight, and blinkers off the bike. i planned on reworking the engine, powder coating the frame and then aquire some cafe parts like some clip ons, aftermarket tank and seat, and i have to do something with that exhaust, and i wanted to change the position of the foot pegs to give the bike a more aggressive riding position.
Now, for the lightweight side. What are the major components to change or trash to drop weight. I heard about the aluminum wheels and the fiberglass tank. i assume that a 2-1 exhaust would shave some weight. it already has a disc brake in front, so theres not that much weight there. anything im missing? thanks for the guidance everyone! it is very appreciated.
 

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Depends on how radical you want to get.
Obviously the tank is a biggie....going to glass could save you around 7-8 lbs....seat is huge...probably drop ten+ pounds on the seat. Exhausts are huge...even staying with 2-2 and installing race type megs you would probably drop another 10+. If it's got a kicker...and starts good with it, ditch the starter motor (probably 5 lbs) and install a smaller battery (couple of pounds).
Wheels..well, on an all out race bike yes...but on the smaller rims used on these bikes you are only looking at saving about (3 lbs) total for front and back....not very cost effective. You'd be better off researching the available tires and finding a light tire.

Most of it really depends on how you plan to use the bike. If it's for weekend blasts around town on local roads during the day then you have a lot of options. If it's for communiting or night riding then your options are more limited. You don't want a race seat on a bike you are going to do a lot of seat time in. You don't want a little light weight barely legal headlight if you plan to ride at night a lot.

If it's for showing off, blasting down the parkway to your local hangout then all options are on the table. Alloy rims, small halogen light, super light seat, alloy sprocket, glass rear fender, bullet tail light...all the cool stuff. Course it all costs money baby.

That bike has got to be around 400 lbs stock. Get it down to around 340 lbs and it will be like a new machine. Get it down to around 300 lbs and you'll be in a whole new range of performance.

My 175 is 295 lbs stock....in race trim it's 205 lbs (whole lot of work and money) the performance at 205 lbs makes it literally a whole different bike.
JohnnyB
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok. that all makes perfect sense. i appreciate that info. now to get started! oh man, where do i begin? lol i need to make some friends at the local parts store!
 

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not to rain on your party but you might also consider given that you are new to this, as am i, that you will probably lay it down at some point and fiberglass doesn't dent it cracks which might get ugly with a full tank. if i were going to spring for a fancy after market tank for street riding i would look into getting one made of alloy.

...connoisseur of slack...
 
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