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why is it called a conversion :| those not the stock tyre?
... don't forget tires come in bias or radial, tube or tubeless,
although in those sizes you will probably find selection to be limited. Was very limited the last time I bought 18 and 19 inch sized rubbers and I need some new ones soon too. If you get the Dunlops let us know if they are any good in wet weather riding, that's most important imo.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Pulled the carbs off today. I’ve never dug into a motorcycle carb before, so I’m posting a bunch of pictures. Seems like they were pretty dirty. I cleaned em real good and put it back together. Question is, do I need to rejet them? Jets weren’t gummed up, and there wasn’t any corrosion. Gas in the bowls smelled fine, no real loose junk in there either.
 

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The bottom half of those carbs appear to have been serviced in this century, the top half has probably not seen that light of day since they were manufactured.
Those 2 brass parts with the straight slot on top are the parts you really need to remove and make sure all the little holes in the tube above are clean and free of debris.

... only thing the float/needle and seat needs to do is not stick closed when the floats drop and not leak by fuel when the floats are raised. Is basically the same principal as on a flush toilet.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Update:

Carbs are cleaned and ready to go back on.
Valve clearance checked, they were within spec.
Got a compression tester in the mail this week, so that's coming up.
I will put it back together and get it warm, then adjust the cam chain. Seems like it might be loose.... Feels loose. I've heard it may be easier to do it manually, like by pushing on the chain and releasing the adjuster nut, because the adjustment nut spring gets old and doesn't work very well? Anybody have experience with that?

Also, the valve adjustment screws were looking a little bit worn. I attached a picture I found online as an example, mine aren't that bad but there is a bit of a taper, particularly on the exhaust valve screws. screws.jpg

Exhaust question: I realized my bike has a resonance chamber. If I do build my own exhaust, do I need to build in a resonance chamber, or will the bike run okay without it? I read through some other threads on here and it seems like I can do some math (using the length of the pipe) and calculate how to get the right acoustics for performance. However, I wanted to see if there are any experts on here.

Frame mod question... I have been looking at what would be smart for a frame mod (if it ends up being in the cards), and found this image on HondaTwins (I won't be using square tube). View attachment 95351 Seems like it matches the stock rear crossmember, but the stock frame also has a center cross member. Am I off in feeling like this looks rigid enough, in terms of design?
 

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There is a little more to that resonance chamber ( referred to as a power chamber in the Honda sales literature) than meets the eye. Helps with midrange a bit, but personally I wouldn't fuss too much about it. I have never been able to find anything actually printed by Honda that goes into any detail. I asked one of the Honda factory trainers who happens to be a squirrel, but he had nothing. At the time, I don't think anyone actually gave a shit.
Sometimes, depending on how those adjusters ( or the tips of the valve stems) are worn, you may not get an accurate reading with a feeler gauge. If pitted, you can figure out what a revolution of the adjuster screw is equal to and then forget the feeler gauge. Just very lightly snug down the adjuster until it contacts the valve and the back it off say a 1/4 turn or whatever it works out too.
You can dick with that cam chain adjuster manually. Sometimes they do stick. Just rotate the engine until you get all of the chain slack at the rear where the adjuster is. Loosen the adjuster. Sometimes you need to back it off a bit and then give it a tap.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
I asked one of the Honda factory trainers who happens to be a squirrel, but he had nothing. At the time, I don't think anyone actually gave a shit.
Well, if the squirrel doesn't know......
 

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Regarding the frame mod.
What is the purpose? If you can keep it stock and hide it under your seat them no mods needed.
That example you posted is likely used as the base for a raised seat.

Figure what you want the rear to look like and then figure if any mods need to be done.
Welding some tubing back there for it's own sake doesn't make sense unless you are specifically strengthening some part of the frame.

What center crossmember are you referring to on the stock frame? Just curious. I looked at some google images and am not sure what you are referring to.


For the exhaust, keep it simple!
 

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Does your ignition timing run off your cam?
if yes and your cam chain is loose then your ignition timing is off or all over the place.

Most severely stressed parts of your frame are the steering head and the area around the swingarm pivot, followed by everything connecting those 2 points.
That subframe bracing really doesn't help on any of those points.

... you know how much load is on the top of your rear shocks <- what's your spring rate?
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Regarding the frame mod.
What is the purpose? If you can keep it stock and hide it under your seat them no mods needed.
That example you posted is likely used as the base for a raised seat.

Figure what you want the rear to look like and then figure if any mods need to be done.
Welding some tubing back there for it's own sake doesn't make sense unless you are specifically strengthening some part of the frame.

What center crossmember are you referring to on the stock frame? Just curious. I looked at some google images and am not sure what you are referring to.


For the exhaust, keep it simple!
Frame mod would be to fit a custom seat (aesthetics). There are two cross members, I'll take a pic next time I'm in the shop. The only issue with the stock frame is that the frame rails are an inch or so below the crossmember height, so there would be a large gap between the seat and the frame. I guess I could get a custom seat made, or re-cut the original seat as has been mentioned above. I just want to make sure I'm not going to make the bike unsafe for the sake of looks.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Does your ignition timing run off your cam?
if yes and your cam chain is loose then your ignition timing is off or all over the place.

Most severely stressed parts of your frame are the steering head and the area around the swingarm pivot, followed by everything connecting those 2 points.
That subframe bracing really doesn't help on any of those points.

... you know how much load is on the top of your rear shocks <- what's your spring rate?
So, spring rate... According to racetech's website, the stock fork spring rate is .55 kg/mm and my recommended rate is about .80 kg/mm. WOW. I can see why jcw recommended I get new springs.

As far as load on the rear shocks, I'm not sure....
 

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... As far as load on the rear shocks, I'm not sure....
it's not a lot. For starters they are way out at the end of the swingarm where the swingarm pivot takes on the majority of the load and all of the torsional stress, your shocks are not laid down, stood up or moved forward, all of which would require far heavier rear spring rates. The sub-frame has to carry your passenger and luggage :/ you plan on carrying a heavy passenger and luggage with this bike? plus your bum minus any weight you transfer to the foot pegs.

... basically the guy beefed up the frame in the wrong area to actually do much of anything other then increase weight.
 

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Rule of dumb: If you see somebody posting frame mods and they already have a steel saddle tank sitting on the bike :/ they are doing it all wrong, is all show and no go. Look for better examples.
 

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Frame mod would be to fit a custom seat (aesthetics). There are two cross members, I'll take a pic next time I'm in the shop. The only issue with the stock frame is that the frame rails are an inch or so below the crossmember height, so there would be a large gap between the seat and the frame. I guess I could get a custom seat made, or re-cut the original seat as has been mentioned above. I just want to make sure I'm not going to make the bike unsafe for the sake of looks.
I would then find the seat or make the seat you want. And weld whatever mounting tabs you need. If you want, replace that rear crossmember with something more substantial that can double as your mount.
I wouldn't bother adding a whole substructure like he did. Like trials said, it's just adding weight.

If the frame rails are simply too low and you can't or don't want to integrate it into the seat design, redoing the whole rear subframe would be an option if you had nothing but time and ambition.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I think this needs to be reiterated, I hear also that it is absolute zero tolerance on make believe mechanicals.
Just dug this up.....

§ 30 StVZO* // 2002/24 EC
The frame must be in its original as-delivered condition!


No welding
No drilling
No deforming
Welded joints must not be polished in such a way that material is removed
All modifications (such as shortening of the frame at the back etc.) must be entered in the vehicle documents


That's not encouraging for a frame chop.
 
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