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Photo 1 points up. And the lock tabs on your discs need to be bent into the side of the bolt heads. Use a brass drift and a hammer.
 

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Fork seals - which way round.
Letters are on top in photo 1
Photo 2 is the other side which has a raised circumference as photo 3.
Go by the lip on the oil seal, oil pressure pushes the seal tighter against the stanchion tube.

... only diagram that I could find, oil side would be where the bearing is here:
 

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Discussion Starter #227
5 minutes to refit the double lock washers and front wheel good to go.

Not everyone’s taste but mono-shock swing arm installed. Ugly black grease out and all reloaded with R1 shock.

Not sure on spring or preload but I’ll work that out when everything’s back together.

On to the forks.
 

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Does it have slide bushings and how good are they? (front forks)
The fit and condition of the bushings is critical to the oil seals not prematurely failing, the bushings hold everything in alignment and the seal just has to stop the oil and air pressure from leaking out, they can't do that if the stanchion tube is not traveling perfectly through the centre of the seal. Be careful buying replacement slider bushings from china import, the last set I fitted, half the bushings in the package were poorly manufactured garbage.
 

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Just for future reference, lock tabs are designed to have only 1 tab locked. The second tab is so they can be re-used.

Always try to use the tab against a flat face of the bolt head. If it has to be on a corner (point), then flatten it on both sides of the corner into a Vee shape. We used pliers with smooth (non serrated) jaws at RR. Try to avoid using a hammer, but if you have to, use a brass drift to avoid damage and don't use too much force. Pliers with parallel jaws are best though.
 

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Discussion Starter #233
I’m on a fantasy programme to get everything back together inside two years, so it’s mostly get on with it at moment. I’ll run the springs I have with Mobil 1 synthetic ATF, which I read somewhere is best in class - who knows?

Installed the fork seals ‘Chinese characters’ upwards, with a short piece of plumbing pipe - effortless. Spring clips and boots and looks like the real thing.

I’ve reversed the sliders to fit the callipers behind - sure to be another drama, but one for next w/e.

Need to shorten the bars and machine the RH mount, as the brake cylinder/piston overlaps, resulting in a bent back wrist angle to the lever. There’s a dodgy photo that shows the issue.
 

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Thanks for the advice. Still not sure on double tab washers. Nuts can still rotate off. What’s the view on nylocks?

Fork internals are first generation as photo.

Look to be in good condition. External tubes are fine
It is the lower fork leg internal bore you should be measuring for out of round.
can you put another set of lock washer tab on the other side?

... fasteners on your brakes are generally the best quality bolts on your entire vehicle, any kind of vehicle, never downgrade them.

Hate those tyres btw but let me know what you think of yours after you ride them in the wet or on sand.
 

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Discussion Starter #235
OK, got it now.
A bit challenged on the forks. I have early internals with rod and later outer on RHS as I needed the calliper mount that wasn’t on the original.
Hopefully all good.
Got the rear tyre mounted but still need to sort the offset which I figure I can do best in the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #236
Finally rolling after 2 years.
Need a new sprocket, chain ring and chain, so I can fix the rear hub offset.
Rather wish I’d gone for black rather than plain alloy rear set mounts. Now need to sort out anodising.
 

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You going to anodize them black, that makes sense, you going to pay to clear anodize them and then paint them too :/
not that i ever cared about what colour my peg brackets were lol they are going to get trashed by my boots

Highly recommend you reconsider offsetting a motorcycle hub to centre a known off centre mounted rim, you could do that on a 4 wheeler with no problem,
not on a vehicle that steers by balancing on 2 wheels and leans to corner.


... if you are making a pretty bike to look at and not one to actually ride,
disregard all of my recommendations and just go for it best luck with your art project :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #238
Plan is to anodise black. Look way too shiny at the moment.

You misunderstood me on the off-set.

I’ve built up the wheel but can’t find any info on the off set. The rim sits to the right to accommodate the chainring offset but not sure how much.

Not sure about a ‘pretty bike’ but I did sit on it and make noises ?
 

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Wheel rims typically have zero offset to the hub (spoke flanges). If you have offset the rim to clear the chain please check wheel alignment because it will most likely be all wrong.

What you are calling offset is just the fact that the hub is wider on one side and that's how it's meant to be. Offset is relative to spoke flanges.
 

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Discussion Starter #240
Teazer, thanks, I've finally got it!

The rim is centred on the hub as you say not on the drum/sprocket offsets.

Man I could have used that little gem 6 months ago.

How dumb do I feel?
 
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