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Here's the real test of a built up frame bike.
Bolt the front wheel to the ground solid and vertical, remove the spring from the rear shock and install it with just the shock, see how much rear wheel wiggle is in the thing now, test it throughout its travel for the rear wheel to also stay true to vertical :cool:
with chain on and testing for clearance or tension issues would be wise.

little visual hint for you; paint things you want to disappear from view in black,
make the nice things shiny,
... those brackets are nice! leave em shiny like the motor, sand blast them if you want them to have a similar matt finish and clear anodize
:cool:
for your own survival add at least some freakin colour to the bike that reflects light unless you never ride at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #242
Like the idea of a stiff test. The bike in UK is old enough not to require MOT test (roadworthy test) indicators or emissions test. You can even get a daytime certificate with no lights. The opportunities are ridiculous.

Agree on the colour agenda, just a lot of filling to do first.

I have some paint left over from when I did a rubbish match to the front wings of this old thing. Smoke Grey.
 

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Discussion Starter #243
Hard work getting the callipers to align with the discs behind the forks.
Original one from the left side was an easy flip to the right. The other needed 2mm machining off the larger mount.
Need to flip the mudguard mount or sort a fork brace.
All sorted and spinning freely, but no use without hoses and fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #245 (Edited)
Cleaned up the coils. One original one not.
Original reads 5.7 across the tails, other one reads 5.2.
I can’t get anything across the plug lead on either coil. Are they scrap or have I missed something?
 

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Discussion Starter #247
Welding in a couple of washers looks like the best alternative.

Any idea on the coils?

Thanks
 

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If the coils are mix matched you could be dealing with anything,
are you testing with the high power wire connected? It might be resistor wire/ are the wire leads threaded on and removable or moulded into the plastic?

I'd be visiting my local bike scrap yard with ohm meter in hand. could probably buy a couple of replacements for ~20 bucks ymmv.
 

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Discussion Starter #249
All tests done off the bike with no battery hook up.
Loose coil has threaded leads, the mounted coil has fixed leads. Can’t get a reading off the loose coil even with leads removed and testing direct.
So few scrap yards in UK these days. Most are now linked and trading through web sites or eBay.
The days of climbing cars piled 3/4 high are long gone.
 

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All tests done off the bike with no battery hook up.
Loose coil has threaded leads, the mounted coil has fixed leads. Can’t get a reading off the loose coil even with leads removed and testing direct.
So few scrap yards in UK these days. Most are now linked and trading through web sites or eBay.
The days of climbing cars piled 3/4 high are long gone.
A coil is just 2 sets of wire windings in close proximity to one another, if either of the coils has an internal short (live or dead short) the coil is done.
A dead short will result in you not being able to measure any resistance at all (no spark), a live short will result in lower resistance then expected (weak spark)


I'm lucky there is a bike dealer guy out this way that has about a thousand scrap motorcycles in his back yard & he hasn't had time to throw it all up on flea bay.
I just go pull the parts I need and make an offer that he usually accepts, you need one of those guys.



add: The reason that ignition wires are sometimes resistor type wire and not solid copper, is to reduce radio reception interference.
Fortunately as motorcycle riders we rarely care about radio static and the only guy you are going to pi** off for running copper is the guy sitting beside you listening to his AM radio. Measure the resistance of just the high power wire lead to the plug cap also.

add: Spark plug caps don't last as long as you might think, service manuals often have a replacement schedule just for the plug cap alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #251
Snowball's chance in hell of getting that lucky in UK.

No reading at all on the HT side so I'll take a look at cutting open one of the coils. Looks like others have had some success adding new leads.

Took a look at the rear brake linkage.

Inverted the lever and now need to fab something to link the pull rod with the rearset to avoid any clash with the swing arm.

Looks like there's plenty of room.
 

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Give you a little hint ;) is a heck of a lot easier to fit a cable to actuate the rear brake then to work with solid rods.
Way easier to have the brake pressure not change when the rear wheel is moving up and down.
 

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Discussion Starter #258
4 sets of identical off shore parts :cool: set them all out next to each other and see if they inspect identical, I will be amazed.
$32.50 - not the solid investment then?

I'll have a good look but you're not alone in doubting their quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #260
A few photos which may be of use to someone. I’ve loads of the various stage if anyone needs more info.

Last shot is cleaned inside and out and all new O rings.

The Far East bargain is last photo, bits that didn’t fit or don’t belong to these carbs.

O ring float bowl gaskets are a nightmare, but there are 2 main jets, smaller or larger than current but without size identified.

I’ll give what I have a go to start with, as at least everything is now clean.
 

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