use it to mount your tach and speedo. not all of the 750's had that setup. all of that stuff just fades away once you get it together. you have either that or the holes. you can also use 550 clamps. the ss clamps i know dont have it that way. they have the holes.
it'll need a little work, but woth a grinder, a press, and someone who can tig it, you'll be all set. everyone has thier own way, but this is how i do it. grind the old stem weld off of the bottom of the bottom clamp. do the same for the new 750 clamp. press the stems out. press the 350 stem into the 750. have it re-welded. you can test fit it up to make sure you get it into the clamp all of the way so the nut fits right. this way you have the 350 stem, in the 750 clamps. you only need to order the 350 bearings. or use the old ones. its a little owrk, but not anything you cant manage.
I think I understand what your saying. Do you have access to a TIG welder? I could come down there with both forks on a weekend or something, I dont really have the cash to bring it to a welder really. It would be awesome if you could help, otherwise Im SOL
my "sponcer" is a blacksmith. he does alot of my welding for nothing. if youre willing to bring it here, save the time and money and have someone do it for you there. make a few calls, someone will do it. it'd probably cost 10 bucks. it only takes a minute. you'll find a place up in pa. there are guys who dont even weld them. i wouldnt trust it though. they are welded for a reason. if you absolutley cant find someone to do it. youre welcome to bring it by though. but the almost 2 hours round trip, and the time here, arent worth what youd spend. so what i do is, grind the welds from both of the boottom clamps at the stem. then i take the clamp assembly to the machine shop, where they press out the stems using a hand press. then they press the 350 stem into the 750 bottom clamp. then i take it to my welder, and he just runs a quick bead around the bottom. the actual welding take literally about a minute. i have a cheap 4" grinder i grind stuff with. if i had the press, i could do it all for free. i usually pay the press guy 10 bucks for coffee and lunch, even though he usually doesnt ask me for anything.
seems alot easier than hauling it to baltimore. but like i said, extreme situations require extreme actions.
I started on the fork today. The 750 steerer tube is the same diameter as the 350 one. I slid it in the head tube of the frame and the bearing races and everything fit. All I need is a spacer to slide over the top bearing race and it should be riding pretty.
Why is this so easy? What am I screwing up? Is this just pure luck that mine fits?
some of the 750 bearings are the same as the 350. like maybe 10 years of models. put the spacer on the bottom between the bearing and the clamp. make sure you have enough thread for the top nut to hook up well. its that simple....sometimes!! you'll probably have to hack off the old plate style steering stop though. (on the frame)
just a few notes. i used the later model ss trees. those have different bearing sizes than the 350. thats why i hack off my stem. it has a different geometry, thats why i picked it specificly. also, on the 550 setup i ran, i didnt want the spacer. and since i had the facilities to get the stems switched, i went for it. i think they also have different sized bearings. id say a good percentage of people do what youre doing. i remember why the spacer should go on the bottom. i think its because the bottom clamp will rub the frame whe you get it bolted up. im sure of it. so that provides the spacing you need. i had to grind some from my bottom clamp to get it to fit well.
The fork is on, it looks pretty beefy. Im gonna replace the fork oil with 20 weight, and I fab'd a new bracket for my speedo and tach. It came out pretty trick! (I'll post the pics soon) Im not sure Im too happy with the 19 inch front wheel though, it sits really high. I might lace it up with an 18 inch rim, might not (the 19 is wider). right now there is a "3.5 x 19" on the front and a 100/90 - 18 on the rear. whats the widest tires I can get for the front and rear. Wider is better right? everyone tells me avon super venoms are the way to go... right?
I rode Venoms for a long time and still race with race compound Avon's but for the street I like the Dunlop TT's. They are great in the rain, they stick great when there warm, and they have better sizes for my street applications. Your limited with sizes with Avon. If you plan on making a little hot rod that handles better. I'd put the 18 on the front. Also I'm running a skinnier set of tyres this year racing cause more than just width is weight, how fast you ride in the corners, and the right tyre for the rim. You can put a 4.00 x 18 on a WM2 on the front and I can bet you you'll never reach the edge of the tyre with out crashing. Plus there's nothing worse than seeing a guy with a sporty bike and he's noly using $75 of his $175 tyre. That's my imput, you may want to ask Joe or JD. They'll know better on which tyres let go at which speeds.
got to agree, wider is not necessarily better. just get as wide as you need. for the street I'd stick with close to stock sizes. love the avons but I've never raced on anything else. the sprint compound super venom (street tire) is sticky enough, I didn't like it much in the rain. but regardless that's what I run on my 550. rear is 130/70/18, front is 110/90/18, both bigger than stock but again I wouldn't say they're much better than stock sizes. only running that size because the front was on one of my 350f racebikes and was much bigger than necessary so I put it on my street bike. the rear I got from Joe. sad too, he was also only using about $75 of his $120 tire. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>