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Discussion Starter #1
So, as the title says, none of the lights on my Honda CG125 (1993) work, even when running. Now, I believe the electrics are working because the ignition turns the bike off and - occasionally - shocks me I turn the key, despite both ground wires being attached to the frame. Anyway, despite checking the wiring again and again, I cannot seem to get any lights to work. Could this be a problem with the handlebar switch assembly?

I have (all plugged in) Wiring loom, battery, wink relay, CDI unit, ignition coil, rectifier, speedometer, switch assembly, headlamp, rear light and 4 indicators. Considering none of the lights want to work going from the switch assembly, what could be the problem?

Thanks again. (This is the last thing, and she'll finally be ready for the road...)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So I previously posted about having a wiring problem, well I found it. 6 wires (all attached to a connector - see images here: ) are not connected. So...

I have the loom, the right hand sideswitch assembly (horn, light controls etc.), speedometer, battery, CDI Unit, wink relay, ignition coil and rectifier all attached, however. This is my problem.

From the switch assembly to the loom, there is no option to connect to the 6pin connector wire (see image) and all the replacement switch relays have the opened ended connector (the one which would connect to that 6 pin) on the wrong side, the side that controls warning lights, fogs etc - which I don't have.

So, do I buy a new switch assembly with the exact same 6 pin connector (something like this for instance: Motorbike Handlebar Switch Assembly Headlight Indicator Horn for Honda CG125 | eBay) and simply connect them via some kind of odd connector, or am I simply missing something?
 

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First off it looks like your bike has 2 generator coils, one for spark and the other appears to be dedicated to lights and **** you need to make sure there is correct roughly AC voltage output from the lighting coil, then work down steam from there to see that the battery is getting the correct voltage to charge, which will be in DC volts.

I wouldn't buy anything yet until you test it and what you buy is different depending on what you plan to change on the bike if anything.
 

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What do you plan to change on the bike or are you going all stock?
Closest thing I found to a service manual is on Carl Salter and it is for a previous model year.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How would I go about testing the output and charge? I don't plan on changing anything just yet, not until those wires are connected up.
 

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Service manual tells you exactly that.

Guessing this is a 6 volt system, hope you don't plan anything sophisticated for added electrical devices, if you do they best run on their own batteries.
 

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Give you a hint on male/female connectors,
power supply outputs are normally female connectors and power taps are male, that way your powered connectors don't accidentally short out on a frame ground.
Wire colour is just there so you can know what wires go where, once things are changed your wiring diagram should be updated to show that.
 

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... no way that part you linked is a Honda part. You'd be better off at a scrap yard then to buy something from China that doesn't even have the correct connectors on it from the get go.

Oh wait, maybe your whole motorcycle was built in China.
 

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LOL :) ! when I read jtackers first post I was about ready to ping you to say you should respond and help this fellow. You are quite good at explaining these things to the uninitiated. I got called away before I could and just now had the time to go on line, seeing that you in fact had.

Good show there (y). I do think you have jtacker at least heading in not only the right but sensible direction. Things such as "hot wires are most often female connectors" is one of those tips that once given will stay with you for life. I sometimes wonder if trouble shooting electronics is a learned skill or a talent that one has and only needs to be nurtured.

Anyway I'm back to the shop to try and figure out why a 1998 BMW GS1100's engine starts, runs, and does all those mechanical things with nary a light to be seen. Yes I know that you will know that I view this as kind of fun.
Cheers :geek:
 

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It's learned, my older brother was into electronics, he taught me and then I had to do it for a living for a couple of decades. The Motorcycles I had to learn on my own, my first purchase after my first ever motorcycle was the shop manual for it :geek: freakin 7 dollars, I just about died.
 

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LOL my first motorbike was a HD I think maybe a 1948 80 " with a springer front end. I tok the wrenched thing apart with out putting anything in bags or using labels . At the time the HD shop was doing motor poliice bikes and was too busy to ask questions. In the end the guy who helped me and started teaching me (I was 15 at the time) was a HD mechanic and also a Hell's Angel first thing from his mouth was "get a HD workshop manual" it was a fortune like $8.49 and tax I almost choked, That guy spent hours showing us how to do things from how to use a cylinder hone and a bore gauge to setting the chain tension. He was truly a nice fellow never got the connection to the Angels but we learned a lot from him. After I sold the HD we were still welcome to drop by and ask questions as long as we left the Honda 250 scrambler home and drove our truck. Lost touch after I started working on the race cars. We were at Laguna Seca a few years later and about 6 or 8 Angels showed up in the pits. The race crew looked as if they were going to take off running but it was only him. Had seen me from a distance and walked over to say hello, scared the crap out of everyone but me; was the last time I ever saw him, :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Service manual tells you exactly that.

Guessing this is a 6 volt system, hope you don't plan anything sophisticated for added electrical devices, if you do they best run on their own batteries.
So, the manual (I'm using this one here: http://die-kleinkraftrad-ig.de/wissensdatenbank/reparaturanleitungcg125.pdf ) states it's a 6V system, but every site I've used recommends a 12V battery. I am an extreme newcomer, so treat me like an idiot...what difference will this make? (I'm currently using a 12V battery)
 

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Chapter 6

... you can't use a 12 volt battery, you have no way to charge it.
Your bike came with a 6 volt system to save money in construction, if you had a 12 volt system you would have 3 coils where you now have two. That would make it a 3-phase alternator and give you closer to 4 or 5 hundred watts to work with. Your lighting coil is not up to the task of charging a 12 volt battery and all of the electrics on your bike are rated for 6 volts D.C.

No I won't treat you like an idiot, that would be disrespectful and shallow on my part.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Currently trying to find the correct 6V battery for it, alongside the correct 6-pin connector for the loom. I'm genuinely wondering now if I actually bought the correct loom, as the 6-pin connector makes no sense. Considering that if I use the intended 6V battery (Yuasa 6N6-3B) there's nothing on the loom to actually connect to the battery, the wiring ends would be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That's the code off the engine, which I know is a CG125 - not entirely sure what year. The VIN code would be for a CB125, which is irrelevant for the electrics, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That's the code off the engine, which I know is a CG125 - not entirely sure what year. The VIN code would be for a CB125, which is irrelevant for the electrics, correct?
I should state. The engine is a CG125 (some year) and the rest of the bike is a CB125, so the VIN number would confuse things.
 
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