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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
13" 330mm A Pair Air Shocks Yamaha Daytona Rear Absorber Motorcycle | eBay

So other then spouting their cheap shit rip off...bla bla bla.....

Can we have a real discussion about the cheap / low cost remote N2 bladder shocks.
Like the ones above.
I heard they break... No pictures to back it up... What breaks?
I've heard shaft seal leaks. Is it a 20 cent O-ring or is it a real double lip seal?

Anyone put a set on a shock dyno and run them back to back with other name brands?
If so how was the damping curve?
There not adjustable damp rates so your left with oil changes and shims if they use shim or are the ball and springs like a Works shock?

Please discuss.
 

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I know someone here or another forum was able to modify them to work correctly but later claimed it cost as much to modify them as it cost to just buy a quality shock to begin with. these apparently lack enough fluid to make them work correctly and have been know to break the base mount off under stress.
 

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PJ modified them and said he did get decent performance out of them, but to what end?
average guy isn't going to have the time, skill or motivation to do that work.

when these shocks were $30 for the pair I could understand the appeal. Had a cool look and they were okay in a pinch on a beater town bike.
but at $100 that is dangerously close to what a good set of shocks will run, so why waste the money?
and every time I see a ohlins sicker on these I want to cock smack someone!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for the links. To bad there no pictures.
 

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The lower clevis is made way too wide, something like 7/8" instead of 3/4" that Honda uses so when tightened up it tries to bend but snaps off.
I've seen pics which is why I made new lower section in 6061 to a custom length
I re-built a set to see just what was involved, had to make some special tools (as shown in link Raven posted)
Because I already have the necessary equipment I now have 3 sets of them and like them a lot (plus, I can still afford $100.00 while I can't afford $275.00+)
Problem is, to do the work for someone else takes time I want to be paid for (including making new lowers) which I why I tell people to buy something decent in the first place.
I've only built/modified one set for someone else, it wasn't a cheap proposition (although still way cheaper than having a professional re-build and still needing new lower section)
To me it's worthwhile re-building them, they don't wear out super fast and they do work really really well after a re-build and good suspension fluid (not ordinary hydraulic oil, I used 10wt Silkolene full synthetic @ $26.00 a quart) The bleed screw is a must, it'simpossible to completely fill shock without it because top out spring compresses when main spring is fitted
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks CrazyPJ that exactly what I was looking for thankfully I will not have to make the Clevis as mine has and needs eye. Just before x-mass they were "On Sale" for $78 so I bought two sets. The family road racing RD has had a set of Marozcchi in the rear but when I sent them out to have the oil changed I noted there short! This explains the fact we rub the chambers more then others.

My plan is to run the rebuilt Marozcchi on shock dyno then run the RFY's and get them as close as I can.
 

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My re-built RFY use full travell on a lightened CB360 (I'm at least 230lbs with gear, bike around 300lbs)
I had no idea they were bottoming which is how I know they work real good (if you can feel shocks working - they are not working ;))
I wouldn't use them on anything weighing over 400lbs though (shaft drive 650 would probably be OK, 'shafties' always use softer springs)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I plan on rating my old spring and the new RFY springs. I had requested the rebuilder rate the old sprigs but he did not....all he did was a expensive oil change.... Question PJ was the oil "Fork" or "Shock" oil? One would think same thing but most vendors sell different bottles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/...073741834.100002893081629&type=1&l=cb8fab7b4b

Thought I'd update a bit.
The old Marzocchi that were on the RD were to short and soft for my weight even with the preload adjuster turned to max you could bottom and the fact that there short ment a low lean angle of the pipes would drag.
I had sent the Marzochi's out for rebuild and asked for springs to be rated but that did not happen all got was an expensive oil change I could have doe myself.....no new seals nothing but oil and that took 3 months..

So I build this spring rater the heart of it is a 1.125 bore cylinder so the gauge reading is 1:1.
the old Marzochis had a rate of 85LB rate and max preload was 82 psi
The RFY shocks came with 106LB rate springs.
Both socks have same stroke.
Still need t replace the oil as per CPJ's recommendations, I've not had time to finish the shock dyno based of an NDDyno most of the parts are here...time is not nor do I recall where I put the all.
 

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Only just saw the question about oil. I used 10w Silkolene Pro racing suspension fluid but anything suitable for USD forks should work. Silkolene had highest V.I. when I used it, forks tend to run cooler than shocks so higher V.I. is better
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks CPJ.

Oh for those of you wondering the spring that come with the RFY look to be progressive however you never really see it unless you use little to no preload.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update: I spot faced and drilled for air bleed screws per CPJ's recommendations and used the oil he called for. put 50psi in the bladders and went racing. The longer shock was what was needed for my RD no more dragging pipes. They seemed to work well in both wet and dry pavement conditions. The change in spring rate seemed to help no more bottoming with very little preload needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
To fill the bleed hole I used 1/4x20 sealing pan head screws from McMaster PN: 90825A950. I had planed on 5mm but lacked a good tap so had to go up to 1/4 to fix the 5mm one that had marginal threads.
I then drilled a 1/4x20 bolt and ground the head round to slip over some fuel line. Added a funnel so I could add oil and pump out air after re-installing the spring, left'em with the bleed hole up and toped them off with oil, replaced the screw ad pumped the shocks a few times and rechecked the oil. until no more air was found.
 

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Cool, updates always welcome
I would re-check them after you've used them a while, just to make sure all the air is out.
When you fit the spring it pulls the top out spring flat so you could get a little negative movement.
Max pressure is 75psi, I didn't know at the time I did mine so they are at 110psi
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes I did find more air after the springs were on and shock stoked a few times.
Thanks for the help CrazyPJ !!
 

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I don't know why people buy these brand shocks. For very little more cash you can get Hagons or Ikons with adequate dampening, the desired length and the right spring rate to do the job just fine.

I'm surprised they only run 75PSI max pressure. Even small motorcross bikes monoshocks run about 90-120PSI of nitrogen.
 
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