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I just redid my gs750 electrics using an M unit.

I thought it was hipster bait, but it made shit so easy.

I went with the m unit basic, Bluetooth isnt with it to me.
I also got their wire kit along with some bullet connectors from vintage connections. I also needed to buy a shoelace ferrule crimper.

Revival cycles has some good informational youtube videos about it too

 

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Discussion Starter #22
I tend to agree, but wonder if I am missing something.

Will be keeping the electric starter for sure though.
 

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I just redid my gs750 electrics using an M unit.

I thought it was hipster bait, but it made shit so easy.

I went with the m unit basic, Bluetooth isnt with it to me.
I also got their wire kit along with some bullet connectors from vintage connections. I also needed to buy a shoelace ferrule crimper.

Revival cycles has some good informational youtube videos about it too

that's as much or more wires than stock!...why spend $200 some add bucks to do extra work?
 

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It's probably on par with stock. The benefit is that everything is on its own circuit and that block acts as a giant smart fuse. Yes, you could wire up a minimalist harness for way less, but this has enough features yo make it worth the cost.
 

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I'm guessing nobody has ever seen an internal wiring diagram for one of these sealed solid state gadgets so it's value is based on your satisfaction with the product.
It sounds like the equivalent of replacing the old fashion fuse panel in your house with a solid state circuit breaker panel and how tidy that wiring is,
;) well that depends on how tidy you can wire a circuit panel.
 

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I'll caveat that the wiring in the picture is after I tested the system but BEFORE I wrapped it.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
There really isn't a way to control the same junk with more or less wires.
Circuits are what they are.

I like the troubleshooting mode and the resettable relays.
Yeah it is overkill for most guys.
 

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The Bluetooth one let's you configure the unit using an app, sends you a phone alert if the bikes alarm goes off, and can be set up as keyless start
 

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It's a 70s chopper. You guys are hilarious with the way you overcomplicate things on this site. Wake me up when choppers become an engineering marvel worthy of all these bells and whistles. Hold my beer while I remote start my chopper. You can literally run a simple harness through one, just one, 30 amp circuit breaker. Yes, technology is great, and I love these M Units, but on a chopper? Really?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Why would it matter what type of bike got what type of technology?

Do you not run electronic ignition on bike older then a special year?
Is calling a phone sex hotline better if it is dialed from a coin operated pay phone?
 

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Try not to take those comments too seriously. But since you mentioned it, right now I am running points on my chopper. I may go back to Dyna, or I may not. The Dyna draws power that the points don't draw, so I may not go back to the Dyna. The Dyna doesn't make it run any better or more reliably then points with a booster. I have a small, light AGM battery that doesn't provide the amps to run a starter and works well with as little wiring as possible. I could go LiFePO to make it even smaller and lighter. I actually ran one under the tank, but decided to go with the AGM instead. I run the brake light and the tail light off the same wire, with just a resistor to separate the two. I have no turn signals, but I do have a high beam and a low beam headlight that runs through a mini switch. No start button and just an on/off toggle under the seat. My handlebars are just grips, the small toggle and throttle. I wired my bike for maybe $20, which includes all fresh wires, connectors, fuses and switches. I even rewired from the stator and field coil. The reg/rec is the most expensive electrical part at like $70. It's easy to find a fault in the wiring, because there aren't enough wires to make it hard. Having a minimal harness makes a fault less likely anyway. I guess there are different philosophies when it comes to choppers. I prefer to stay minimal and put all the money into the motor.
 

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I don't really care whether you use an m unit or not. As long as wiring is hidden or looks really cool.

Funny wiring story...I got this souped up kz650 that never really ran that great...so I was constantly trying to dial in the carbs and jetting but never getting anywhere. One day I decided I needed the bright headlights and switched 'em on, but the engine shut off dead. Switched back to low beam, push starter button, fires right up...brights on, engine shuts off...huh, that's funny, something must be wired wrong, but I gotta get these carbs dialed. Several more months of fiddling with no progress all the while not using the high beam. Finally, I get frustrated and decide to sell the damn thing. But I better fix that wiring glitch before I put it up for sale. So it turns out power to the coils is a yellow with orange stripe, power to low beams is orange with a yellow stripe (or something like that) and they were criss crossed. So I switch 'em back and not only does everything work including the ignition system even when the high beam is on, but the damn thing starts running really good and is fun to ride and now I don't wanna sell it. No idea if it was me or the previous owner who screwed up in the first place. Also no idea how this relates to the M-Unit.
 

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I don't really care whether you use an m unit or not. As long as wiring is hidden or looks really cool.

Funny wiring story...I got this souped up kz650 that never really ran that great...so I was constantly trying to dial in the carbs and jetting but never getting anywhere. One day I decided I needed the bright headlights and switched 'em on, but the engine shut off dead. Switched back to low beam, push starter button, fires right up...brights on, engine shuts off...huh, that's funny, something must be wired wrong, but I gotta get these carbs dialed. Several more months of fiddling with no progress all the while not using the high beam. Finally, I get frustrated and decide to sell the damn thing. But I better fix that wiring glitch before I put it up for sale. So it turns out power to the coils is a yellow with orange stripe, power to low beams is orange with a yellow stripe (or something like that) and they were criss crossed. So I switch 'em back and not only does everything work including the ignition system even when the high beam is on, but the damn thing starts running really good and is fun to ride and now I don't wanna sell it. No idea if it was me or the previous owner who screwed up in the first place. Also no idea how this relates to the M-Unit.
i was once riding a 906 paso (used bike from the shop floor) at night that was running very off after getting back on at a friends house. rolling throttle open/closed, etc, the usual. suddenly realised only had park lights so flicked the lights to headlight while inadvertantly having throttle full open. fuel pump was wired to headlight. wheelied it into a council works caravan.
 

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Discussion Starter #38


So what if the bike is in a million pieces?
Sure it seems like I am taking more apart then I am putting back together/
Yes I have things on the "to buy" list that are actually NEEDS to get this project moving.

But who doesn't like to see some cool go fast speed parts?
ARD set up for a 550 (they are different then the 750 units)
Fairly standard coil cooler
CB650 cam
CB750 pistons with the "gentleman's express" mods"
New rings

Just a few neat parts for this project.
Been busy with some house projects and the holidays.
Mainly unpacking bike parts and organizing. Trying to get a good idea of what I still have, and what I really need to still get.
 
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